Showing all 25 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Wed 3rd Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 Hard | ★★ The Sweet and the Savage - with Gareth | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Back to get it, a hell of a fight. Suckers you by starting easy then getting slowly harder until you're packed into a strenuous jam/undercling with very high feet out at the crux. The step around/down (maybe there is another option here) to the vertical crack needed a lot of willpower, then took an age to protect it while wrecked. The "trad belay" seems dodgy due to a hollow sounding block and limited options, kept going to anchors with solid rope drag, belayed with poor comms. Harder than Hecklers I reckon, need more opinions.
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20 | ★ Sunday School - with Gareth | 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Straightforward enough once you burn it into non-volatile memory.
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Thu 28th Dec 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
17 | ★★ Boat Ramp Crack - with Jonno Rau, Gareth | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Out here for urgent track safety work. Great long route, let down by a dirty top third (take a brush). Lowered Jonno then brought G up, time flew by.
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★★ Road Tripping - with Gareth | 48m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better than High Hopes. Could use a clean but not too bad, maybe 18 as is. Nice view of parties on cruxes of After The Sunset and The Odyssey.
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16 | ★★ Super Natural - with Gareth | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I still bloody love this even after a visit to Arapiles. Still clean enough. Scrape the thin crack out a little for gear at the crux.
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Wed 4th Jan 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
22 | ★★ Safety in Numbers | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Consistent all the way. A lot of lichen makes it hard to spot the feet and at times you are on lichen slopers. High priority for a clean. Topped out through some dead bushy stuff I didn't remember being there, couldn't find the anchor, then discovered a tree had died and fallen right onto it. Considerable swearing while balanced on more lichen. Got anchored then spent a while wrenching the tree off and sent it down. Rap cleaned. This will be bloody great after a good brush.
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Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 | ★★★ The Hecklers - with Jonno Rau | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is so good. Took quite an effort after no climbing for 2 months. A clean of the right face would help find more rests.
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18 |
★★★ After the Sunset P1
1
18
30m
| 30m, 42 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup. The first of the two good pitches for the route (P5 is the other). Bloody nice.
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Thu 3rd Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 | ★★★ The Hecklers - with Gareth | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Bloody great. Right face could really use a scrub. Gareth seconded clean, good effort. We could see and hear Katie and Joe up at the crux on the Odyssey.
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16 | ★★ Super Natural - with Gareth | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun broke out halfway which prompted quite a speedup. Staying clean enough, though you'll always have to dig out the thin crack a little around the crux.
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14 | ★★ Sunset Ledge - with Gareth | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Lugged the trad gear out, warmup. Crack pretty clean.
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Fri 2nd Apr 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★★ High Hopes - with Colin, Paul Baron | 45m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got out there early before the hordes arrive and start queueing. 5 years since I last led this and every move seemed new. One long pitch is the way to go, but if so your seconds need to be aware of the rope stretch at the low crux (which is not 16).
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Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 | ★★★ The Hecklers - with Gareth | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Superb climbing, bomber jams, plenty of no-hands rests if you look for them. Started to rain just after Gareth began seconding. Lowered him, waited it out with raincoat, pulled a second rope up and rap-cleaned it by down-jammimg with one hand (RH face a bit wet and mossy). Sloped off back to camp through wet bush.
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16 | ★★ Super Natural - with Jonno | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Needs a bit of a garden again, probably once a year.
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Mon 27th Jan 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural - with Jonno Rau | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
After 27 hours of cleaning, it's a whole different climb. Plenty of holds and good gear (take cams 0.3 to #2, a double set of nuts, plus RPs or small offsets to avoid runouts). I had 20 pieces in. Long, absorbing, and probably not for beginner trad leaders. Get on it.
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Thu 23rd Jan 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fixing a rope for cleaning. Bottom 15m still very dirty and sketchy after previous cleaning sessions rained crap down on it. Excellent belay by Rosie.
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Sun 5th Jan 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
14 | ★★ Sunset Ledge - with Gareth Hall | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Access for cleaning.
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Sat 4th Jan 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 |
★★★ After the Sunset (After the Sunset P1-2)
- with
Gareth Hall
| 50m, 42 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A Saturday evening faff around gaining access to the tops of Super Natural and Bi Curious George to fix ropes for cleaning. Linked P1-2 only, considerable rope drag at the dirty top out. Replaced the old hand line snaplink above Super Natural with a stainless maillon. Ran out of time and did no actual cleaning.
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Wed 24th Apr 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
17 | ★★ For King and Country - with Grant Johnston | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The bottom retrobolt is not too bad apart from the first bolt. Took the cave access chains off, a fall from the first crux would be through those and they are excessive anyway. The crack and corner above is great with a couple of cruxes, but VERY dirty right now, was more or less a ground-up again, will be back to clean it after winter. A must-do when clean.
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Sat 26th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A little more cleaning on lead. The crux crack is starting to stay more open, but the face is going to take a while, and the lichenous bottom will be last.
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14 | ★★ Sunset Ledge | 28m | ★ Good | |||
A nice ramble. Cleaned on abseil, left 4 bomber pieces in for Gareth's freshman trad lead.
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Mon 7th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural - with Tim Swain | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbs a bit easier after last month's clean, did a bit more on the way down, still a lot of lichen in bottom section. Will revisit, it's a great route.
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Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural - with Angela Hewlett | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very dirty and now annoyingly retro bolted for the lower slab section. Did a little scraping of footholds on lead, tackled the crux above the world's dodgiest looking tricam, scraped out the crux crack on descent (it takes a very sane #5 brass offset). Needs a good scrub. Still really good, classic if cleaner.
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14 | ★★ Sunset Ledge - with Angela Hewlett | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Quite dirty, gave it a scrape out and garden on descent, looks much better now.
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Sun 8th Feb 2015 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 |
★★★ High Hopes
- with
Angela Hewlett
1
lead by
John Pitcairn
2
lead by
John Pitcairn
| 45m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Misread the initial moves up to the arete and made it harder than it really is, ha. Angela definitely out of her comfort zone seconding pitch 1.
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Showing all 25 ascents.