Routes as sport in Britten Crag

Thin crack a metre right of the arete. Medium cams useful to protect an easy runout above the last bolt.

Climb through a small triangular roof, then on to the wall. Uses upper two bolts for Yellow Splendour. Unprotected start.

Start just left of Kingfisher and boulder up to the first bolt on small holds, then more positive moves leftward to the second bolt, and finish slightly right up the left side of the arete. Don't pull two hard on holds around the 2nd bolt or veer left to avoid crumbly rocks.

Just right of Kingfisher. Climb a slabby wall, then follow a groove up to the roof. Pull through the roof and finish on the steep face.

Start as for Kingfisher and move right on to the slab below the overhang.

Start as for Gorilla At Large, and traverse right at the first bolt.

Climb the broken corner a few metres right of Kingfisher. Start under the right side of the roof halfway up the corner, and pass it to the left.

Start as for Wine And Beer It to the first bolt, then continue up the groove on the right of the arete. Shares an anchor with Transmogrification.

Climb up the middle of the prominent wall with an overhang at the top.

4 bolts up wall to shared anchor with TMPP.

Just right of the arete, about 5m left of the fence. Climb through the roof and finish up the face.

Just right of Scott Free, climb the right side of the arete to a shared anchor.

Right-leaning crack about 5m left of the fence. Pull through two roofs and then trend right to a crack.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Start on right side of rubble pile, up the right side of the quake scar.

Climb through a small roof on the right side of the wall.

Right side of grassy gully, up a cracked wall.

Start at the bulging prow on the right of the gully.

Climb the face, up a thin crack and over the overhang on the right.

Bolted line right of Hippocratic Oaf.

Grooved arête between The Vertical Limit and Michael Is Janet.

Right of Michael Is Janet.

Start up a black slab on the left side of the small buttress. Shares anchor with 98 All Out.

Climb up the centre of the buttress.

Climb up the arete to a shared anchor with 98 All Out. Direct start to first bolt is 15.

Three bolts up the arete, and another one when merging with Hebe Jebe. No anchors, the suggestion is to use the anchors for Hebe Jebe.

Starts just left of a corner and below an obvious roof at the very left end of the Shelf. Climb through the roof and up a blunt arête with the pink lichen patches to the second bolt. Move left around the roof and on to the wall, and then back right to the third bolt on the arête (take care). Climb up onto easier ground to a single bolt anchor.

Black wall at the left end of the Shelf.

Just right of Top Shelf. Climb through the small roof on to the wall, then finish as for Top Shelf.

A bolted boulder problem that climbs through the roof left of Footloose. A stout sequence right off the deck leads to good holds. Traverse into Footloose past the 3rd bolt.

Follow the vague groove.

Powerful moves through the roof left of The Big C.

Hard climbing through the big roof to the third bolt over the lip. Shares the last bolt of Off The Shelf and the same anchor.

Boulder up to the first bolt, clipping off a good hold. Using the pinch above, pull over the bulge on to the wall.

Use the first two bolts on ‘Sourdough on the Side’ then cross leftwards past the line of ‘The Unclimbed Crack’ onto the slab and corner.

In the middle of the wall. Start with a steep bouldery sequence up through a small roof to the first bolt, or you can start right of the vege and move left above the roof. Then straight up past the second bolt and directly over a small roof with cool holds. Continue straight up the face with the last bolt out left. Two-ring anchor.

Nice line with small holds, starting from a small ledge. Crux is getting past the 2nd bolt. Follow thin crack to DBA.

Starts just right of Tres Estrellas De Oro. Climb the face up to the second bolt, then continue up the arête to a single bolt anchor.

Climb the corner just right of an undercut arête.

Starts just to the left of Arriba! and shares the anchors for Andele!

Start as for Face-Off but climb the groove through a bulge, tending left then up to the top.

Climb the steep wall beside the right arête.

Start 5 metres left of Tiger Wall, up a short wall with a white lichenous ledge above.

Start right of Get to Grips, then climb leftwards across the Mis-spent Youth crack. Finish on the top left of the Tiger Wall.

Start as for WAFTT. Climb to the first bolt but then go left and climb the insipient leftward trending crack past a second bolt to a good rest and a third bolt. Step right and climb the bulging face past the fourth bolt. Finish up easier ground to a single old bolt on top of the crag

Three metres right of Mis-spent Youth, just left of a black streak. Prepared by Simon Middlemass eons ago, and climbed inadvertently. Hard start, then trend right on fingery holds. Five bolts, use Sunburst Finish anchors.

About four metres left of the Matterhorn boulder. Over the roof to a resting ledge. Finish up the steepest part of the black wall to a double bolt anchor. Five bolts tending right.

An alternative start to ‘The Beer Hunter’ start just right of a slimy seepage line, climb direct onto the ledge and corner.

Start as for Speight’s Race, clipping its first bolt. Upon reaching the roof, lean out left and clip, then surmount the prow, trending left to the next bolt. Easier but balancey climbing past 2 more bolts leads to the anchor.

An overhanging corner with stepped roofs above the Matterhorn boulder. Pull on to the ledge and climb the corner; then move left to a small ledge. Tricky move to the last bolt, then up slightly left to finish at the lowest point. Unfortunately this is the last route on the crag to dry.

An eliminate line between American Dream and Speights Race, with good strenuous climbing. From the top of the ochre coloured block climb the initial wall past two bolts to the large roof. Go slightly right, then back left to the third bolt, which is out of sight around the nose on the left. Go straight up to a fourth bolt and a high step onto the steep head wall above. At the fifth bolt finish direct (steep and fingery), or alternatively above the fifth bolt move left to the top of the groove

Overhanging route left of the cave, partially prepared by Simon Courtois. Start at the yellow boulder and haul up over the roofs on good holds, moving slightly right to finish. Great cranking. The abseil chains have good access from the top, but tend to land you in the elderberry. .

Start on top of the yellow lichen-covered boulder. Pull over the roof (second bolt to the right) and up to a detached book-like flake. Finish up the easier groove above.

Start at the very right end of the yellow lichen-covered boulder. Cross the roof at its widest part and continue up a blocky looking wall with good holds to the final bolt and a tricky exit. Good fun - this is how sport climbing should be. Two-ring anchor. The belayer may wish to tie to the elder tree to avoid being dragged into mud or nettles.

Takes a line left of Southern Exposure, swing out left onto reasonable holds, continue gymnastically over the roof and up small holds to get to a jug at the fourth BR. Move up and over the roof to finish at the belay of SE.

Start down by the nettles below a large roof resembling an inverted staircase. Move easily up to clip the first and second bolts to the more strenuous, technical climbing and a good hold at the third bolt. Weave your way around on good holds past the next two bolts to exit through an obvious notch. Five bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains above and to the left.

Start at the edge of the cave just left of Big Girls Blouse, below and right of the first bolt. Move diagonally up and left past the first bolt to the second. Climb straight up the wall to the roof, then move left, up and back right over the roof to finish. The anchor is on a block up in the grass about five metres back. Four bolts. .

Just right, at the right edge of the overhangs. Start as for the next route, but move left (committing) and follow four bolts up the wall and through a small roof (either left or right of the fourth bolt) to a lowering bolt. There's also an abseil station above.

At last, a 20 with bite - borderline 21. Direct route up the undercut arête. Committing moves with hard pulls to the second bolt, then easier to the top. Four bolts and a lowering bolt

Impressive line finishing up the high prow. Step carefully up and right to the second bolt (run-out), then move leftward past the third bolt. The route steepens above the fourth bolt, with tricky moves on to the "Pizza-eating Ledge", left of the fifth bolt. Climb up and step right for the move to the chains at the lip. Seven bolts, and abseil chains.

Right of BV, up to slightly overhug wall. Climb over the lip and use the rap station to just rightwards.

Up easier terrain a couple of metres right of "Fear As Fuel". One of the highest route of the crag. Enjoy the view during the finish on the prow.

Two metres right, easy climbing straight up past the first 3 bolts. From square-edged hold about a metre left of the 4th bolt some nice moves take you right and up through some angled features past the 5th bolt toward a small rounded overhanging roof. Double ring anchors.

A couple of metres right is this nice route up a steepening wall and over a small bulge near the top. Four bolts, chain link anchors just over the lip. .

In the centre of the brown wall is this direct route over a small roof and up a steep headwall. Hard pulling over the roof, then a rest before a steep exit on the upper wall.

Another one a couple of metres right. Straight-forward climbing until the wall steepens, with a slopey top out requiring a move to the right. Four bolts and shares a double chain anchor with the next climb. .

Two metres right is a line of six bolts (top one hidden) up a straightforward wall to a small roof and into a groove. Excellent climbing - easy to the fourth bolt, then technical moves to the top. Abseil anchors slightly rightwards.

From the start of "What R U Reckon?" move right past the 1st bolt, drift back to the 2nd and then up. From the 5th bolt climb up & directly to What do ya Reckon's rap-station.

May have a loose block.

Staunch pulling over the roof and up the arête at the left end of The Alcove. Head left for a start, then clip the first bolt and move right to the arête and up. Climb the easy face to a steepening exit beside the bush, with surprisingly tricky moves on the slopers to top out. Five bolts and anchor rings.

Hard pulling to get through the roof, joining Endless Summer after the third bolt.