Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
35 | |||||
Barnett Park The Cave | |||||
35 | Phantom Bender
Similar to Phantom Machismo, but upon reaching the 'one jug' feature above the pigeon perch on Hung Like Elvis, go up and left, then back right to the flat ledge at the 9th bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that line. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019 | ||||
35 | Super Boy
The most mega of the mega Cave linkups. Start as for Super Glue, cross Rubble and Gorilla Grip, then drop down to the good jug on Troglodyte. Continue up and right as for Phantom to the sloper jug on Kaz's. Soldier on past nearly every route in the cave, angling up and right to finally finish at the top of Space Boy. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019 | ||||
34 | |||||
Barnett Park The Cave | |||||
34 | The Large Hadron Collider
Climb Kaz's project to the rest at the 8th bolt, then traverse hard right to the flat ledge at the 9th bolt of Bogus. Finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018 | ||||
34 | Hydroplaning Hyper
Same as for Hydroplaning, but upon latching the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus, follow the line of bolts angling up and right to finish as for the Enigma of Kasper Hauser. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019 | ||||
34 | The Phantom Machismo
Similar to Phantom Menace, but traverses one level lower. After reaching the 3rd bolt of Gorilla Grip, head right but instead of going up to the good rest at the penultimate bolt of Kaz's, traverse straight right to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019 | ||||
33 | |||||
Barnett Park The Cave | |||||
33 | Attack Balam
Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, then traverse left all the way to the Bogus Machismo anchor. A massive linkup of the entire right side of the Cave! FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017 | ||||
33 | Space Time
Start as for Space Boy, but upon reaching the pod at the 5th bolt, instead of angling right continue straight up to the Underworld anchors. FA: Josh Cornah, 2020 | ||||
33 | Doomsday Invader
Starts at the line of bolts just left of the start of Space Boy. Climb up and right into the pod at the 5th bolt on Space Boy and finish up this line. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2021 | ||||
33 | The Enigma Machine
Start as for the Enigma of Kasper Hauser, but instead of trending left climb straight up through the hanging slab and the prominent undercling, to finish as for Kaiser Soze. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017 | ||||
33 | ★★★ Paint It Black
Starts immediately left of Bogus. Climb straight up to the first kneebar of Bogus at its 5th bolt, then finish as for Bogus. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019 | ||||
33 | The Elvis Project
Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch. From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left to a horizontal crack feature level with the 8th bolt of Kaz's. From here, traverse left to link into and finish as for Kaz's. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019 | ||||
33 | Hydroplaning
Start up Troglodyte. At its 3rd draw, traverse right all the way to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that route. FA: Mark Pugh-Williams, 2013 | ||||
33 | The Phantom Menace
Same as for the Phantom, but at the good rest near the top of Kaz's, continue right to the flat ledge at the penultimate bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | ||||
32 | |||||
Mount Pleasant Right Cliff | |||||
32 | The Annihilator
Very short boulder with bad slopers and flexible moves FA: Derek Thatcher, 2007 | 9m, 1 | |||
Lyttelton Rock Mr Clean Wall | |||||
32 | ★★ Dr Strangelove
FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018 | 14m, 6 | |||
Barnett Park The Cave | |||||
32 | Buffy Express
Climb Nosferatu to just below the final roof, then traverse hard left all the way to join Bogus Machismo and finish as for that route. FA: Mark Pugh-Williams, 2014 | ||||
32 | ★★ Space Boy
Classic. Line directly to the left of Dracula. Climb the vague arête to the pod, then angle right, following the line of permadraws. Continue through another crux to the lip of the cave for the extended version. FA: Matt Evrard, 1994 FA: Kaz Pucia, 1995 | ||||
32 | Underworld
Start as for the Enigma of Kasper Hauser, but at the hanging slab feature, break right and finish at the anchor to the right of the Kaiser Soze anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005 | ||||
32 | The Enigma of Kasper Hauser
The line of bolts just right of The Baron. Hard boulder problem to start into rest hole. From here, continue up into an inverted crux! Finish at the anchor just to the right of Bogus. Set: Matt Evrard FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005 | ||||
32 | The Baron Hauser
Start at the line of bolts just right of Bogus. Climb to the slopers at the 4th bolt of Bogus, then continue straight up into the crux of Kaiser Wilhelm and finish as for the Enigma of Kasper Hauser. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | ||||
32 | Centripetal Force
Climb Bogus to the flat ledge at its 9th bolt. From here, traverse hard left all the way to join Gorilla Grip at its 5th bolt and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | ||||
32 | ★ Ride of the Valkyries
The line of bolts that starts at a dark patch of rock left of Bogus. V10 boulder to the pigeon pod. Link into the top of Bogus Machismo via the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt. Set: Rodney Newburn FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003 | ||||
32 | Airbender
Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch. From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left to a horizontal crack feature level with the 8th bolt of Kaz's. From here, traverse right to the flat ledge at the 9th bolt of Bogus and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018 | ||||
32 | ★★★ Kaz's Project
Start in the corner at the right side of the deepest part of the cave. Technical climbing leads up and left via a very long section of consistently very hard moves to the lip of the cave. Set: Kaz Pucia FA: Derek Thatcher, 2007 | ||||
32 | The Ghost Who Walks
Climb Kaz's to the 5th bolt, then continue to angle up and left to the heel hook at the 5th bolt of Gorilla Grip and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017 | ||||
32 | Swoopathon
Climb Troglodyte to its 3rd bolt, then traverse right to join Kaz's Project at the slopers. Finish as for that line. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2014 | ||||
32 | Centrifuge
The horizontal line which traverses almost half of The Cave. Start as for She Devil, pass Gorilla Grip and continue along the seam which leads to Bogus Machismo. A mediocre rest at the flat ledge allows for a modicum of recovery before attacking Bogus' final crux. Set: Ivan Vostinar FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003 | ||||
V10 | |||||
Waterfall Crag | |||||
V10 | ★ Sasquatch
Start near the centre of the cave with LH gaston and RH undercling. Make a hard pull on and slap LH to sloper. Latch RH crimp then throw to a good edge. From here, grab the good ball hold then climb straight up the face on good holds. Finish to the right on the bucket. FA: Derek Thatcher | ||||
V10 | Traverse Right to Left (No Glue)
Start as for Arachnophobia, then commence traversing left to top out as for End of the Rainbow. This line is an eliminate and excludes all holds "made out of glue". Interesting distinction, and likely subject to change as the cave evolves. The line stays low, underneath the steepest parts of the wall. | ||||
Halfcar | |||||
V10 | Half Brain
Stand stand on 'perfect single pad crimp', continue up and left through the short roof on teeny grips. | 4m | |||
31 | |||||
The Nettlebed | |||||
31 | Red Admiral
FA: Zac Orme Set: Matt Evrard | ||||
Barnett Park The Cave | |||||
31 | Let There Be Link Ups
Start immediately to the right of Let There Be Bolts, then at the 3rd draw and footcam of Bolts, angle left to join and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018 | ||||
31 | Buffy
Climb Nosferatu to just below the final roof, then traverse left to join Space Boy and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2004 | ||||
31 | The Ugly Duckling
The line of bolts between Dracula and Nosferatu. Climb straight up then right, crossing Nosferatu, to finish at the Urge anchors. Set: Kaz Pucia FA: Kaz Pucia, 2005 | ||||
31 | Count Duckular
Start as for Dracula, but at the wet jug, instead of joining Nosferatu continue to traverse right to finish at the Urge anchors. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005 | ||||
31 | Bloodlust
An extension to Dracula. Climb that route but instead of finishing as for Nosferatu, continue on to the Space Boy anchors. FA: Max Farr, 2008 | ||||
31 | Drac Invader
An extension to Dracula. Climb that route but instead of finishing as for Nosferatu, continue on to the Space Invader anchors. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2021 | ||||
31 | Space Invader
Climb Space Boy, but at the 7th bolt, instead of going straight up, angle right to finish at a lower anchor to the right of the small tree. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017 | ||||
31 | Kaiser Wilhelm
Start as for Enigma of Kasper Hauser, then after the crux head up and right to finish as for Kaiser Soze. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2003 | ||||
31 | The Baron Machismo
Start at the line of bolts just to the right of Bogus. Climb to the slopers at Bogus' 4th bolt, then finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | ||||
31 | Kevin Spacey
Climb Bogus to the 4th bolt, then traverse right to join Kaiser Soze. At the undercling rest, instead of going straight up, traverse right all the way to the Space Boy finish. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2007 | ||||
31 | Bogus Hauser
Climb Bogus to the first kneebar at the 6th bolt. Angle up and right to join the Enigma of Kasper Hauser and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | ||||
31 | Hyper Boy
Climb Bogus to the 'boobs' at its 8th bolt. From here, traverse right all the way to finish at the Space Boy anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019 | ||||
31 | The Fat Controller
Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch (just left of the pigeon pod). From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left, then join Kaz's Project at its 7th bolt. Finish as for Kaz's. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006 | ||||
31 | King Of Snake
Climb Kaz's to the dyno at the 4th bolt, then angle up and right to the kneebar rest at the 7th bolt of Bogus. Climb to the next bolt of Bogus, then at the 'boobs', go up and right to finish on the Hauser anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | ||||
31 | Troglothon
Climb Kaz's Project to the slopers at the 5th bolt, then drop down to the level of the 3rd bolt of Gorilla Grip. From here, climb GG to its finish. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006 | ||||
31 | The Phantom
Climb Gorilla Grip to the 3rd bolt, then traverse right to the good jug on Troglodyte. Keep angling up and right to the good rest before the final crux of Kaz's, then finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008 | ||||
V9 | |||||
Waterfall Crag | |||||
V9 | ★ Traverse Left Right
Sit start using the big flat hold on the far left side of the main crag. Traverse across and down into the roof. Climb across the roof (avoiding the jug made of glue) to reach the big sloper, then move up to the lip and across right on good holds to finish on the bucket as for Short But Sweet. | ||||
Halfcar | |||||
V9 | Maggot Brain
Sit start as for 'Always Crashing in the Same Car', get up to the slot jug then quest through the white roof to the 'perfect single pad crimp' then move rightwards and join the top of the V6 the right. | 4m | |||
Bridle Path Boulders | |||||
V9 | ★★ Early Exit
Do the first move of Early Bird gets the Worm then go right via large shoulder move. Finish climb to the right. FA: Derek Thatcher, 18 Jun 2022 | 3m | |||
V9 | ★★ The Final Tache | ||||
30 | |||||
Mount Pleasant Right Cliff | |||||
30 | Winter's Bone
FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005 | 14m | |||
Barnett Park The Cave | |||||
30 | Van Helsing
Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, and traverse left to the Nosferatu anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017 | ||||
30 | Retrograde
Start to the right of the black streak, right of Let There Be Linkups. Upon attaining the pockets about halfway up the wall, move left then back right to the Attack Mode anchor. FA: Sefton Priestley, 2014 | ||||
30 | ★ Nosferatu
Start on the vague pillar to the right of Dracula. Pull a hard boulder problem, then join Dracula at the wet jug. Set: Peter Taw FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2002 | ||||
30 | ★★★ Dracula
Classic power endurance line, and the direct start to Nosferatu. Was originally 32 but has been downgraded due to hold breakage and poor re-gluing. Follow the line of bolts just right of Space Boy, angling slight right until you reach the wet jug. From here, join Nosferatu. Set: Kaz Pucia FA: Kaz Pucia, 2003 | ||||
30 | Vampire
Start as for Bogus, then above the 4th bolt traverse right, then down across Enigma to the 'hanging slab' feature. From here, diagonal up and right to finish at the Wilhelm anchors. Set: Andy Cockburn FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005 | ||||
30 | ★ Kaiser Soze
Start up Bogus but go right at the 4th bolt into the no hands rest. From here continue up and right to the lip of the cave. Was originally climbed by Alex Palman with glued holds at 29, and recently broke to become harder again. Set: Alex Palman FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2004 | ||||
30 | Hyper Machismo
Climb Bogus to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt. Instead of angling up and left, go up and right to finish at the Hauser anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2015 | ||||
30 | Snakes On A Plane
Climb Bogus to the second kneebar (6th bolt). From here, downclimb left to the pigeon perch, go up one bolt, then traverse hard left across Kaz's to join Gorilla Grip at its 5th bolt, then finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019 | ||||
30 | ★★★ Bukujutsu
Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch. From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left. At the 'one jug' feature below the horizontal crack, traverse right to the 8th bolt of Bogus at the 'boobs'. Finish up Bogus. Set: Derek Thatcher FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006 | ||||
30 | ★★ Troglodyte
The line of bolts all the way at the back of the central cave. Ascend to the 3rd draw then angle left to eventually join Gorilla Grip. Seven boulder problems between jugs. Set: Ivan Vostinar FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003 | ||||
V8 | |||||
Waterfall Crag | |||||
V8 | ★★ Mr Miyagi
Sit start at the far left side of the cave with LH on a rounded edge and RH on the obvious spike. Slap up LH then move RH out to a pinch. A big heel eventually allows you to attain a good LH edge. From here, move right to finish on the jug (heinous top out optional). | ||||
Halfcar | |||||
V8 | Melon Balls Sit Start
Start sitting on the upper testicle, fight to get to 'Melon Balls' starting jug and keep truckin' | 4m | |||
V8 | Glass Half Full
The full thing! From the dirt to the top! Climb 'Drop the Clutch', catch your breathe on the mega jug, then finish up 'Glass Half Empty' | ||||
Bridle Path Boulders | |||||
V8 | ★★ Early Bird Gets The Worm
FA: Zuri George | 3m | |||
V8 | Unknown
Isaac and Alec climbed up here after some landscaping. FA: Isaac Buckley | 3m | |||
V8 | ★ The Seven Dwarves
Sit start, hands matched in large undercling | 8m | |||
29 | |||||
Transmitter Crag Closed The Goat Cave | |||||
29 | Owens Climb
FFA: Owen Davies, 2013 | ||||
Three Sisters The Twisted Sister | |||||
29 | Age of Enlightenment
FA: Jarrod Alexander, 2016 | 8 | |||
Lyttelton Rock The Thunderdome | |||||
29 | ★ Kublai Khan
FA: Sefton Priestley, 2004 | 15m, 4 | |||
Barnett Park The Cave | |||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode
Bouldery start leads left to good pockets, then back right with sustained climbing and some hard moves through the roof. FA: Peter Taw, 1993 | ||||
29 | Attack Surge
Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, then traverse left to finish at the Urge anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008 | ||||
29 | Choss Muncher
Start just to the right of Retrograde, move up to the pockets about halfway up the wall, then finish at the Attack Mode anchor. Set: Richard Dale FA: Derek Thatcher, 2002 | ||||
29 | Donkey
Start just to the left of Let There Be Bolts. Climb up and slightly right, then join the top of Bolts at the final roof. Set: Andy Cockburn FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005 | ||||
29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo
Great flowing moves make this New Zealand's endurance testpiece! Starts in the central, deepest part of the cave. Climb straight up the veer left at 4th bolt. The draining start gives way to big holds. Two cruxes are placed conveniently at the very end for when you are completely pumped. Set: Matt Evrard FA: Peter Taw, 1994 | ||||
29 | Snake Charmer
Climb Hung Like Elvis to the pigeon pod, then continue up to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus and finish as for that route. FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003 | ||||
29 | Zac Attack
Starts between Gorilla Grip and Troglodyte. Climb up to the good jug at the 4th draw of Trog, then head left to join GG and finish as for that route. FA: Zac Orme, 2019 | ||||
29 | Elephant Grips
Same as for Elephant Tits, but after zigging back left to the 5th bolt of Gorilla Grip, zag right again to join Kaz's Project and top out as for this route. FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005 | ||||
29 | Slurry
Start as for Super Glue. Traverse right past the 4th bolt of Rubble and the 5th bolt of Gorilla Grip, to join Kaz's Project at the big rest. Finish as for this route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005 | ||||
28 | |||||
Transmitter Crag Closed The Goat Cave | |||||
28 | Poison Dwarf
FFA: Owen Davies, 2013 | 12m, 5 | |||
Three Sisters The Twisted Sister | |||||
28 | ★ Big Red
FA: Derek Thatcher, 2002 | 3 | |||
28 | Twisted Arete
FA: Derek Thatcher | ||||
Lyttelton Rock The Thunderdome | |||||
28 | ★★ Creatures of Power
Start in the permanently oozy, mossy corner to the right of Kubla Khan. Surmount the first roof by pulling a hard boulder problem, then continue up and slightly right past two additional overhangs. Easier but slopey ground leads to the anchor. FA: Peter Taw | 15m, 5 | |||
28 | ★ Alternative Traverse
FA: Andy Cockburn, 1993 | 12m, 6 | |||
Britten Crag The Alcove | |||||
28 | The Rimmer
Lh Traverse. Starts as for Disco Logic and circles leftwards & up wards using top bolt of NN and going left across the top regions of Thorn Bird finishing at top of Mt Pleasant Butcher FA: Andrew Cockburn, 2003 | 15m, 11 | |||
28 | ★★ The Zimmerframe Owner Strikes Back
Now 28 - until Vaughan glues the hold back on. Very steep route with glued holds two metres right. Climb past five bolts up a steeply overhanging wall to abseil chains. Originally a project by Matt Evrard FA: Richard Kimberley, 1999 | 15m, 5 | |||
28 | ★★ Silence Of The Wombats
Climb into the wombat hole, then surmount the horizontal roof with creativity. Thin moves up the head wall lead up and left, then back right over the bulge. Anchor is currently a single staple. FA: Sefton Priestley, 2000 | 15m, 6 | |||
Barnett Park Leech Wall | |||||
28 | ★ Intifada
FA: Pat Deavoll, 2003 | 6 | |||
Barnett Park The Cave | |||||
28 | ★★ Bolt Mode
Start up Bolts, then break right at the third bolt, cross the black streak, and angle up and right to finish as for Attack Mode. FA: Sefton Priestley, 2017 | ||||
28 | ★★ Let There Be Bolts
Cave classic. Interesting, sustained moves that slowly get harder as you go. Sustained, funky, bouldery moves on the right hand side of the cave. Starts on a large bulge about 5m left of the waterfall. Equipped with permadraws and a lower-off. FA: Peter Taw, 1993 | 13m, 6 | |||
28 | ★ Elephant Tits
Start as for Gorilla Grip. At the third bolt, veer right to the good jug on Troglodyte, then veer up and left to rejoin GG at the 5th bolt and finish as for the original. FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005 | ||||
28 | ★ She Devil
Start as for Super Glue. Traverse right past the 4th bolt of Rubble to join and finish up Gorilla Grip. Awesome endurance climb. FA: Richard Kimberley, 1998 | 8 | |||
28 | ★ Les Nouvelles Pastes De Christ
Start as for Super Glue, and traverse right as for Shrubble. Like She Devil, this line finishes up Gorilla Grip. However, instead of joining GG at Rubble's 4th bolt, continue higher to the 5th bolt of Rubble and traverse right to join GG from here. FA: Tom Hoyle, 2005 | ||||
V7 | |||||
Waterfall Crag | |||||
V7 | Left Wall Traverse Direct (Right to Left)
Start as for the low traverse. At about the halfway point, make a big move up and left to a crimp, then finish straight up on the big sloper near the lip. | ||||
V7 | ★★ Cramp
Sit start near the mid point of the cave on the big undercling. Hard moves to crimps lead to a big pull through to the start hold of Sloper Groper. Finish as for this problem. | ||||
V7 | ★★ Short But Sweet
Starts just left of Arachnophobia. Sit start very low on the ball shaped meat wrap and RH crimp, with feet on the wall (not on the clay slab below). Cross into a pocket and crimp then follow a series of incut crimps leading to a dyno finish to the prominent jug. Drop off here or top out if you dare. | ||||
Halfcar | |||||
V7 | Full Sized
Almost the full thing... Start as for 'Drop the Clutch', do the first enormous move of 'Glass Half Empty' but move right and up for a less challenging outro. | 4m | |||
V7 | Glass Half Empty
From the finishing mega jug of ‘Drop the Clutch’ do some enormous moves and finish up the groove. | 4m | |||
27 | |||||
Transmitter Crag Closed Main Cliff | |||||
27 | ★ Captain Nutrino
Up to the first bolt on a small nose and through a square roof, tending left past two bolts. Ivan Vostinar, 1999. | 15m |