Ascents in Chinaman's Bluff having Beta

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Showing all 37 ascents.

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Quality	Climber
Sun 12th May 2024 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time - with Kati Tureo 1 17 20m Trad lead by Martin Carlaw 2 18 35m Second lead by Kati Tureo Spicy book corner finger crack at the end 3 18 30m Trad lead by Martin Carlaw 4 20 30m Second lead by Kati Tureo 5 17 20m Trad lead by Martin Carlaw Slippery arete for a "17" 6 16 35m Second lead by Kati Tureo	Mixed trad 170m, 47		Martin Carlaw
Big frost in the morning! couldn't feel fingers first pitch. Getting late in the season to make it within the daylight window. Turned back once it started getting real cold as Timone (dog, not a person) was tied up at the base. Uncut 60m is fine Awesome drive, approach, climb, area and company!
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	21	★★★ Chink in Shining Armour	Mixed trad 110m, 32	★★ Very Good	Gomez Garcia Gonzalez
Great last two pitches, good stone and cool holds.
Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	24	★★ What's up DOC - with Dave Eckl 1 18 20 Sport 2 18 20 Second lead by Dave Eckl Guide doesnt mention much but a really nice pitch following a finger crack transitioning into an awesome flake. laybacking. 3 24 25 Sport steep pumpy climbing into the crux bulge on small crimps. Took a giant whip pulling the crux ended up upside down every which way. Had another go but pumped out. rested below the crux before getting it. rest of the climb is very good 4 21 25 Second lead by Dave Eckl A really good pitch and route. Would love to see it have more traffic. Steep climbing on crimps with a sting before the anchors	Sport 90m, 30	★★ Very Good	Nick O'Rourke
A great route
Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	21	★★ Hard Sun	Sport 82m, 31	Average	Matias Rivera Urrutia
very dirty all the way up, third anchor bolts are loose and spinning. Nice moves on good rock but need a lot of cleaning.
Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Chinaman's Bluff
China Wall
	23	★ Lucia	Sport 20m, 9	Don't Bother	Jacktothewild
Grade 18 climbing to one hard move at the roof.
	24	★★ First Steps — 2 attempts	Sport 20m, 7	★★ Very Good	Jacktothewild
Climbing is nice once you clean it up.
	21	★★ Free the Flow	Sport 17m, 8	★★ Very Good	Jacktothewild
Sustained and fun!
	17	★★ On The Programme	Sport 26m, 10	★★ Very Good	Jacktothewild
best 17 I've ever touched.
Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time - with Clare	Mixed trad 240m, 47	★★★ Classic	Gee Rad
Lead all pitches clean, flash or onsight all apart from lowering off pitch 7 after accidentally starting to link into it from 6. We climbed the first two pitches the day before and bailed due to lots of other parties on the route. Really enjoyed the steep crack pitches!
Wed 13th Dec 2023 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20 Easy	★★★ The Ravages of Time - with Kiera Montgomery, Lizzy 1 17 20 Second lead by Kiera Montgomery 2 18 35 Trad lead by Aidan Sarginson 3 18 30 Second lead by Lizzy 4 20 30 Trad lead by Aidan Sarginson 5 17 20 Second lead by Kiera Montgomery 6 16 35 Second lead by Lizzy 7 16 30 Trad lead by Aidan Sarginson 8 20 35 Trad lead by Aidan Sarginson	Mixed trad 240m, 47	★★ Very Good	Aidan Sarginson
For a group of 3 we took 8 hours to get to the top and 3 hours of Rapping. Can be climbed and rapped on an unchopped 60m rope, but a 70m will make your life easier.
Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time - with Biddy 1 17 20 Trad lead by Shawn 2 18 35 Trad lead by Shawn 3 18 30 Trad lead by Shawn 4 20 30 Trad lead by Shawn 5 17 20 Trad lead by Shawn 6 16 35 Trad lead by Shawn 7 16 30 Trad lead by Shawn 8 20 35 Trad lead by Shawn	Mixed trad 240m, 47	★★★ Classic	Shawn
Trousers got caught in a quickdraw forcing me to downclimb to undo it all. Lost too much energy in the process and fell 1m away from the anchor of the top pitch, so gutted!
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20 Easy	★★★ The Ravages of Time - with Grant 1 17 20m Second lead by Grant Cool slabby pitch - all bolts 2 18 35m Trad lead by Jay Super fun pitch. 1 bolt off the ground and easy gear. Some cool airy moves stepping around the arete. 3 18 30m Second lead by Grant Good gear and another cool move around and arete. 4 20 30m Trad lead by Jay Probably the most technical pitch. Surprisingly not pumpy at all. Maybe grade 12 on gear and then then an easy 20 on bolts. 5 17 20m Trad lead by Jay Surprisingly, I found this pitch the hardest. You've got to really pull off the ground and then sick moves up the arete. All bolts. 6 16 35m Second lead by Grant Fun moves! 7 16 30m Trad lead by Jay Super fun! 8 20 35m Second lead by Grant Definitely the coolest pitch! Easy crack climbing the then a gentle overhang with jugs	Mixed trad 240m, 47	★★ Very Good	Jay
FWIW this route can just be descended on a single 60m rope. We climbed on two 60s but didn't need them for the raps. Accidentally rapped down the first set of anchors from the half way ledge, which made for three 30m raps and a little dirty scramble.
Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	21 ~20	★★★ Chink in Shining Armour 1 17 20m Trad 2 17 26m Trad 3 20 30m Trad 4 21 30m Trad	Mixed trad 110m, 32	★★★ Mega Classic	Angus Mcgill
Amazing route definitely soft for the grade (was our first tick on a 21. Very well protected especially on the last 2 pitches. Only used 3 small-mid range cams for the second pitch.
Fri 3rd Mar 2023 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	21	★★★ Chink in Shining Armour 1 17 20m Trad Easy climb 2 17 26m Second Need to place 2, 3 gear at a crack. 3 20 30m Trad Hardest of all 4 pitch. Very sustain 20. Slightly overhang. After pass the last bulge, getting easy. Can have some no hand rest 4 21 30m Trad Good hand and foot hold most of the time until the last bolt. Traverse left before go up to clip the last bolt.	Mixed trad 110m, 32	★★ Very Good	Pak
Took like 7 hour to finish for 3 ppl. Other than the first pitch, all other pitch can only belay at a very small ledge. Sunny all day.
Wed 4th Jan 2023 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time - with Ryan Siacci, Imogen 1 17 20m Trad 2 18 35m Second 3 18 30m Second 4 20 30m Second 5 17 20m Second 6 16 35m Second 7 16 30m Second 8 20 35m Second	Mixed trad 240m, 47		Max Wasley
Beautiful route in a stunning position. Some dirty pitches but most excellent climbing. Had it all - slab, cracks of all sizes and steep jugs. To quote Ryan Siacci “wow NZ DOES have good crack climbing!”.
Sun 1st Jan 2023 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time - with Tim Bartholomew, kathy, dania 1 17 20m Second 2 18 35m Trad Small cam by the roof? 3 18 30m Trad 4 20 30m Trad Easy grade 13-14trad to bolted 20. (Slab) 5 18 20m Trad Hardest climb from the entire pitch. Really hard start on dirty rock then it ease off 6 16 35m Trad 7 16 30m Trad 8 20 35m Trad Trad 18 on fist size crack to a 20 bolted. BEST PITCH.	Mixed trad 240m, 47	★★★ Mega Classic	Afiq Avinesh
Finally. Big day mission with 4 people. Fortunate enough to lead the whole 8 pitch after the first pitch. Last pitch was definitely something spectacular, what a way to finish (MUST DO). 13hrs - start from the carpark to back. Big thanks to the first people that discover it Steve, Murray and Andrew. What a badass
Fri 18th Nov 2022 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time 1 17 20 Trad 2 18 35 Trad 3 18 30 Trad 4 20 30 Trad	Mixed trad 120m, 47		Ryan Yong
Led first 4 pitches and turned back...
Fri 18th Mar 2022 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time - with Eric Horn 1 17 20m lead by Andy Baird 2 18 35m lead by Andy Baird 3 18 30m lead by Andy Baird 4 20 30m lead by Andy Baird	Mixed trad 120m, 47	★★★ Mega Classic	Andy Baird
Epic time, found the route thanks to notes from a friend and Eric's excellent navigation. Didn't climb fast enough to do the whole route, Pitch 2 was my favourite, varying from "this is the greatest climb of my life" as I went under the roof and round the corner, to 5 metres later "this is the worst route of my life" as I dropped Eric's carabiner while trying to navigate round the crack tree. Super hang dog on Pitch 4 for bolt / unrelenting section. Lots of debate about which way to go in Pitch 2 and 3 . Beautiful text book crack on start of Pitch 4.
Thu 10th Mar 2022 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★ Third World Assassin - with Mike Skinner	Mixed trad 90m, 10	★★ Very Good	Justin Wimmer
Super fun first 3 pitches. End of the 3rd pitch needs a bit of a brush and 4th pitch needs a deveg. Linked the 2nd and 3rd pitch which worked quite well as we took a while trying to find the climb.
Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time 1 17 20m 2 18 35m 3 18 30m 4 20 30m 5 17 20m 6 16 35m 7 16 30m 8 20 35m	Mixed trad 240m, 47	★★★ Mega Classic	Adam Sanders
Lives up to hype! Amazed at how lines like these are discovered and equipped. Really well protected and varied throughout! Unfortunately I lost the onsight on the last 2 metres of the whole climb, rushed the final moves with a pump and took the whip. Would climb again though for sure! Swung leads with Tomas. We found the crux to be setting up rappels whilst being swarmed by what felt like the entire sandfly population of Dart Valley.
Sat 29th Jan 2022 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time 1 17 20m 2 18 35m 3 18 30m 4 20 30m 5 17 20m 6 18 35m 7 16 30m 8 20 35m	Mixed trad 240m, 47	★★★ Mega Classic	Troy Kendall
Mega classic route! Has everything! Lots of jamming, steep techy face climbing, runout slabs, sharp aretes, finalising in a steep hand crack which leads to a overhanging jug haul. So epic! Split up the crux pitches. Both were such classic pitches and so different!
Sat 8th Jan 2022 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time - with James 1 17 20 Trad lead by James 2 18 35 Trad lead by Joyce 3 18 30 Trad lead by James 4 20 30 Trad lead by Joyce 5 17 20 Trad lead by James 6 18 35 Trad lead by Joyce 7 16 30 Trad lead by Joyce 8 20 35 Trad lead by James	Mixed trad 240m, 47	★★★ Mega Classic	Joyce
A 24hour extravaganza of getting lost, rapping onto ledges without anchors in the dark, sweet sweet crack climbing, running out of gear on 35m routes, sandbagged crimpy grade '16's with small pro and staggering back into camp for a 5.30am victory beer.
Thu 18th Feb 2021 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time - with stefan geissdörfer, Jason 1 17 20m 2 18 35m 3 18 30m 4 20 30m 5 17 20m 6 18 35m 7 16 30m 8 20 35m	Mixed trad 240m, 47	★★★ Classic	Max Warren
Super cool tour, be careful with the descent.
Tue 17th Mar 2020 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time - with Natalie Tan 1 17 350m lead by Natalie Tan 2 18 3 18 4 20 5 17 6 18 7 16 8 20	Mixed trad 350m, 47	★★ Very Good	Oliver McDonald
Last 4 pitches are worth it.
Thu 6th Dec 2018 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★ Third World Assassin 1 17 20m lead by Josh Worley 2 20 24m lead by Josh Worley 3 19 24m lead by Josh Worley 4 15 19m lead by Josh Worley	Mixed trad 87m, 10	★ Good	Josh Worley
Unfortunately a lot of vegetation which detracted from the climb. If you go I would recommend taking a wire brush and making a day of it to clean it up. I was not aware of its current state otherwise would have done so myself. Not sure I will get the chance again before I go home. Would be a nice climb if cleaned properly. The second pitch is one of the scariest leads I have ever done. Thin and tricky gear the whole way. Had to sit a couple of times. Third pitch was the best in my opinion with great climbing and good gear, though a small amount of vegetation in the crack detracted from the quality.
Tue 27th Nov 2018 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time - with Che	Mixed trad 240m, 47	★★ Very Good	Josh Worley
Nice climbing with good gear throughout.
Wed 3rd Jan 2018 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time	Mixed trad 240m, 47	★★★ Classic	Myles Perry
Cracking route. Varied - crack, overlap, slabs.
Sun 22nd Oct 2017 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	21	★★★ Tick Tock	Trad 55m	★★★ Classic	iemfi
Blindly followed the fixed rope to this instead of going up the second pitch of ravages of time. 70m rope just enough.
Sun 29th Dec 2013 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time	Mixed trad 240m, 47	★★★ Mega Classic	zac
rain of last pitch
Tue 17th Dec 2013 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time (Ravages Of Time)	Mixed trad 240m, 47		Michael Cartwright
17,18,18,20,17,16,16,20 with Cathy
Mon 16th Dec 2013 - Chinaman's Bluff
China Wall
	21	★ On The Programme P2 (On the Programme)	Sport 20m, 8		Michael Cartwright
17,21 with Cathy
Sat 15th Dec 2012 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	22	★★ Browsing Time	Sport 38m, 16	★★ Very Good	Blair Johnston
Hard
	21	★★ Hard Sun	Sport 82m, 31		Blair Johnston
Maybe 21
Mon 12th Oct 2009 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★ Third World Assassin	Mixed trad 90m, 10	★★ Very Good	Vanessa Wills
Led Pitch 2 and 4 with MB
	22 21	★★ Hard Sun	Sport 82m, 31	★ Good	Vanessa Wills
Great cleaning effort. Harder than 21
Mon 19th Dec 2005 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time	Mixed trad 240m, 47	★★★ Classic	Vanessa Wills
stunning setting, led piches 1,2,5,8,10 with John
Fri 29th Jan 2021 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	20	★★★ The Ravages of Time - with Oliver McDonald 1 17 20m 2 18 35m 3 18 30m 4 20 30m 5 17 20m 6 18 35m 7 16 30m 8 20 35m	Mixed trad 240m, 47		Nat
2020 April

Showing all 37 ascents.

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Ascents in Chinaman's Bluff having Beta

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