P1 - (17, 20m, 6b) climb the black slab, tending right to the anchors.
P2 - (18, 32m, 1b + gear) clip the bolt at the start, then follow the crack. Rock over the right side at the first small roof to the crack on the face. DBA above the tree.
P3 - (18, 30m, gear only) climb the right-trending crack until it disappears, then cross the right arete to another fist crack. DBA on a ledge by a tree.
P4 - (20, 30m, 8b + gear) up the crack to your left leading to some sustained face climbing on bolts. Belay off trees above the DBA.
Traverse right for 30 metres to a DBA at the bottom of a steep, white, bolted arete.
P5 - (17, 20m, 8b) up the arete then traverse right to DBA.
P6 - (16, 32m, 6b + gear) face climbing right of the arete, with some cracks for pro after the 3rd bolt. Tree belay on a big ledge.
P7 - (16, 20m, 6b) climb the slab on your left, past a ledge then right to another tree belay. Belay from here, then carefully scramble right and up (past another tree with rap tat: 35m+ rap from here to bottom of P7) to the base of the headwall. Move 15m right to an obvious wide crack, which is the start of P8.
P8 - (20, 32m, 4b + gear) steep crack climbing into a sustained and overhanging face on bolts. A classic pitch!
Descent: From the top, descend to the bottom of P5 then traverse left past the top of P4 to the rap station above the top of Chink in Shining Armour. Rap to the top of Chink in Shining Armour then down the route to the bottom (triple chain anchors). Can be done with one 70m rope, or an uncut 60m with care.
Gear: A full rack of nuts and cams is essential. Doubles in the Camalot #0.4-#3 range are useful for P2 and 3. Take a few metres of cord to replace tree belays on the top three pitches.
FA:Murray Judge, Andrew MacFarlane & Steve Carr, 1999
