Routes in The Remarkables

The traverse has commitment , exposure and dramatic views. It takes a full day. In full summer conditions, the route is a mostly long rock scramble with steep sections, however snow and ice increase the difficulty. For pitching, bring a 60m rope with a small rack and plenty of long slings. An ice axe is necessary in winter conditions. Take plenty of water, there is none en route.

Splitter first trad lead.

Walk up the grand coloir until you reach the Petit Couloir. The climb starts close to the end of the little band of scree which goes into the start of the Petit Couloir, before it gets steep.

1. 50m (13) Start under the small rooflet and head up the crack until you reach easier ground where you can set a belay

2. 55m (9) Up crack, move right up the steeper terrain and then back left to a belay

3. 60m (10) The best pitch! Move up the steep rock onto series of small steep ledges.

Climb starts around here but the marker might be slightly off.

150m left of the Db Eh? Buttress. Start up a steep move, over some loose flakes, and then up left to follow slabs for 60 or so metres, until crux pitch is encountered.

Direct crack line, start between FS crack and DB, Eh.

Follows a corner system trending left from lefthand side of the dbeh? buttress. Can be continued on above to the summit of double cone.

This route actually goes where "Nice Guys Come Last" goes, unfortunately the Nice Guys came last, in fact several years later!

This route takes the same line as "Maori Alphabet" and was done several years later.

This was the first multi pitch rock climb done on the Remarkables and since the first ascent has been misrepresented in the subsequent guidebooks. Firstly the route is named as per the rights of the first ascencionists as Maori Alphabet and not DB Eh? , that is the punchline! Secondly, from the descriptions other climbers have given me as to where they climbed, maybe if I was asked I could draw a topo of it to set things straight.

1. 50m (14) Start up the consolidated slaps. Belay at chains

2. 50m (12) Up slabs to the right of the chains and then easily up low angle slabs to belay.

3. 55m (15) Up slabs, traverse left under roof and up small chimney. Belay under rooflet

4. 45m (16/17) Pull through one 17ish move over the roof and then easily up slabs to belay in corner.

5. 55m (10) Up past ledge with cairn (this is where the abseil anchor is) till you run out of rope.

6. scramble

7. scramble

Descent Notes:

There are a few different ways down, depending on how you're feeling.

1. Finish off the Grand Traverse and come down the couloir of Single Cone. Pretty good value but doesn't go past the bottom of the route, if you left your bags there.

2. Do a bit of the Grand Traverse, but go down the Grand Couloir which will take you back to the bottom of the route. The scree is pretty loose.

3. Either finish the climb at the pitch five abseil (50m) or scramble back down to it from the summit. After the abeil make your way back to the cliff top above Alta Slabs. Keep to the right (looking towards Lake Alta) and there are a number of chains you can rap off. You can even scramble back to the top of pitch one and rap right back to where you started.

Starting just left of large crack/waterfall. Alternate start by walking along base of wall left until a large ramp angles back Right. Follow the line Left of the waterfall. Face can be climbed wet rock, though harder to protect.

Starts on pinkish slab near base of wall. Fairly runout first and second pitches. First anchor is easy to miss but if you're looking a bolted slab it's behind you.(and probably to the left). Gear is where you need it. Awesome moves through the second pitch headwalls.

Two fairly run out pitches up the slabs, then a juggy headwall. Bolted anchors at the top of each pitch.

via Alta lake

Crack system left of Breaking in Brett. Starts up a right trending before moving up the steeper rock to the left. Bolted rappel stations.

Starts directly under the overhanging roofs.

1. 40m Move up easy corner to belay under rather large distinctive roof. 2x #5 is ideal for belay, but 2's and 3's are fine. (17).

2. 40m Traverse left from belay using underclings on small gear, then up and around roof to ledge (19).

3. 40m Move up and right from belay, traverse left after crack runs out (16).

4. 60m Carry on up and left (17).

5. 40m Take the left hand slab. (17).

6. 40m Another awesome corner system. Exit right to a ledge (16).

7. 40m Up steep bulge for a few moves, then beautiful arete/slab climbing (18).

8. 40m Straight up through a small roof, then arete to the summit (18) Descend via Grand Couloir or Single Cone.

20m left of Old Guard (winter route). Take a full rack from RP's to large cams.

Standard descent route off Single Cone. Due to it's aspect it is not uncommon to find snow in the gully, even in Summer. Bolted belays.

There is now an easy scramble down on the ledges ~12m climber's right of the gully that leads to DBA that allows for a single 30m rappel to the bottom of the gully. Useful in shoulder seasons if crossing the iced/snow gully to get to other rap stations is difficult.

A corner left of the gentle slab marks the beginning. This corner trends left and you will have to overcome steeper ground before it eases off. Easy scramble to summit rocks.

5m right of Alpha. First belay is to the right marked by DBA.Next move through the obviosus roof crack. Route finishes up a featured face.

Up slab to DBA. The second pitch begins by climbing a corner and a big flake, where a belay is advised. The third pitch is crux: up the tricky slab, then clip one bolt and climb the roof (3 bolts, 23 or A1/13). Belay after you pull the lip. Run out the next 50m to DBA.

Up the grey slab on the far right of the face underneath a crack system. Easy up a crack to a small belay ledge. Traverse left to bolts and to the summit.

Climb the black corner system to the right of the slab. Up and left to reach the NE Arete and to the summit.

This route is 5m right of Epsilon climbing paralley until joining the North East Arete.

Awesome scramble to the summit. Consider a light rack and a 60m rope.

Short, limited pro, good rock (10m). Obvious crack to small ledge. Climb headwall to a belay on large ledge (45m). Short pitch to the walk off (12m).

Right of blank face. Weakness to belay ledge (55m). Climb blocky ground above belay (10m).

Right of Cavity Search, steeper ground (55m). Same second pitch of Cavity Search (10m).

Climb easy terrain to the right of Hard Act to Follow (50m). Cruisy second pitch (15m).

10m right of Liposuction. Crack systems (45m). Nice pitch, steeper ground (15m).

Climb the right-hand side of the butress in the centre of the face. Two pegs on a ledge to belay (55m). Climb steeper ground off belay via a crack, to the next ledge (15m).

Gently angled slab on right hand side of face (45m). Follow right side of buttress through slabs to a gully of shingle (40m). Climb left to a steeper part, then a slab. Stay right on the slab, join the ridge. (40m).

Great pro. Steep overlap. Great rock.

Obvious rib between South and South West face. Steep for four of the seven.

The left most snow gully.

Pretty great pitch of ice! Lot's of beginners do it as a top rope, and it can be busy.

Has a DBA at the top, so you can rap down with 2 60m ropes.

The ramps just to the right of Touch Down. Shares an anchor with Touch Down

From the top of Touch Down follow the obvious snow ramp to the left until you get to big snow ledge. Wander right and then straight up to the top. Apparently most of the route was soloed on the first ascent.

WI3 is only really for the Touch Down slabs. The rest of the climb is mostly steep snow, maybe an Alpine 2.

A great day out with some cool exposure looking down at Wye Creek.

Accessed using rappel stations on the face.

Climbers left of rappel line.

Climbers right of the rappel line.

Ascend right-leaning chimney. DBA at the top.

Crack climbing on compact schist.

Has been led in winter.

P1: Enjoyable climbing up a mellow left-facing corner, onto the face with 4 bolts to ledge with DBA.

P2: Nice face climbing with bolts and great gear. Best linked with P1 for the full experience.

Starting at Shadow Basin top station, ascend ridgeline lookers left of the saddle. Gains about 200m vertical - either hug the blocky ridge or adjacent snow slopes can provide easy solutions.

Up easy corner then step right to steeper finish. DBA shared with Mixed Emotions.