Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
25 | ★ Wind Me Up (Need to Unwind Direct Finish) | 20m, 7 | Diamond Lake | ★ Good | Tue 4th Mar 2008 | |||
The guide books crap- but hey I tried hard cos I thought I was on a 23!
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24 | ★★ 10 Boy Scouts | 20m, 8 | Hospital Flat | Average | Sun 10th Jan 2010 | |||
kiwis cant crimp
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23 | ★★ Who the Fuck is Nick Cradock? (Who the Fuck is Nick Craddock?) | 25m, 8 | Motatapu Valley | ★ Good | Sat 8th Mar 2008 | |||
nice reachy moves. Probably only 22, but its my style!
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23 | ★★ Hobo Humping Slobo Babe | 15m, 5 | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Sun 10th Jan 2010 | |||
tricky to chose the right crimp
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23 | ★★ Roche Moutonnee | 16m, 8 | Motatapu Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Apr 2016 | |||
Great novelty roof with per madras
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22 | ★★ Everything but the Formalities | 15m, 6 | Motatapu Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Mar 2008 | |||
Worth the approach up the gungy ramp
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22 | ★ No Holds Barred | 27m, 8 | Wye Creek | ★ Good | Wed 30th Dec 2009 | |||
Rather well spaced bolts. A full head trip!
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22 | ★ Epoxy Passion | 20m, 8 | Wye Creek | ★ Good | Mon 28th Dec 2009 | |||
some OK moments. Hard mantle
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22 | ★★ The Colonel's Secret | 16m, 6 | Motatapu Valley | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Apr 2016 | |||
The draws were on to below crux. Felt pretty slippery, I appreciated the hand jams
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23 22 | ★★ Ferocious Weasel | 20m, 8 | Motatapu Valley | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Apr 2016 | |||
Not too hard
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21 | ★★ Tais-toi! | 22m, 9 | Wye Creek | ★ Good | Sun 11th Oct 2009 | |||
A bit of a struggle
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21 | ★★★ Dream Thing | 15m, 8 | Wye Creek | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Mar 2008 | |||
Sweet roof!
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22 21 | ★★ Hard Sun | 82m, 31 | Chinaman's Bluff | ★ Good | Mon 12th Oct 2009 | |||
Great cleaning effort. Harder than 21
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21 | ★ I Need a Pie | 17m, 4 | Motatapu Valley | ★ Good | Wed 5th Mar 2008 | |||
Scary bolting
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20 | ★★ Stick It In | 20m, 8 | Diamond Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Mar 2008 | |||
Would be classic if it wasnt bolted. FIngers to hands.
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20 | ★★ Matt's Joke | 20m, 8 | Wye Creek | ★ Good | Fri 28th Mar 2008 | |||
Short roof, then more sustained than it looked.
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19 20 | ★★ Smellie Crack | 25m, 10 | Wye Creek | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Mar 2008 | |||
Rather tricky for the grade.
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20 | ★★ Third World Assassin | 90m, 10 | Chinaman's Bluff | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Oct 2009 | |||
Led Pitch 2 and 4 with MB
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21 20 | ★★ Disco Inferno | 15m, 3 | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Sun 10th Jan 2010 | |||
arete humping
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20 | A Steep Introduction | 15m, 6 | Mount Iron | Average | Fri 14th Sep 2012 | |||
A bit escapable
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20 | ★ Like a Lover Scorned | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2016 | |||
Some interesting arête moves if the sidepulls out of reach
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20 | ★ You Crack Me Up | 25m, 5 | Motatapu Valley | ★ Good | Thu 31st Mar 2016 | |||
Feels easier than 20 now that you don't need to place gear
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20 | ★ Cunning Linguistics | 16m, 5 | Motatapu Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Apr 2016 | |||
I made the top roof harder than needed
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19 | ★ Cryptology | 10m, 3 | Motatapu Valley | Average | Mon 31st Mar 2008 | |||
OK warm up
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19 | ★ The Nutty Professor | 15m | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Sat 29th Mar 2008 | |||
18 19 | ★★ Feeling Rampant | 30m, 7 | Diamond Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Mar 2008 | |||
Pleasant trad crack, then stiff move through roof to pleasant slab
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19 | ★★★ Fuckity Fuck Fuck | 30m, 12 | Diamond Lake | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Mar 2008 | |||
Guide book says 6 BR- it has 12!
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18 19 | ★★ Quick Fix | 15m, 5 | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Wed 5th Mar 2008 | |||
Quite pumpy
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19 | ★ Vas-y Mollo (Easy Tiger (vas-y-mollo)) | 15m, 5 | Wye Creek | Average | Mon 28th Dec 2009 | |||
not very memorable
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19 | ★ Hap Hazard | 19m, 6 | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Mon 17th Sep 2012 | |||
Shame about the ledge.
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19 | ★★ Burning Sky | 24m, 1 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★ Good | Sun 20th Mar 2016 | |||
I'm a bit spoilt by fine sea cliffs. This is a bit chossy, but nice moves
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19 | ★★ Triple Treat | 25m | Lovers Leap | ★ Good | Mon 21st Mar 2016 | |||
A little Ledgy, but nice
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19 | ★★ Walk Of Shame | 14m | Lovers Leap | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Mar 2016 | |||
Not long ( after the chain ascent) but a bit burly
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19 | ★ Jospe/Carr Route (When Yuppies Go to Hell) | 25m, 10 | Mapoutahi | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2016 | |||
Some moments of interesting climbing up groove
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19 | ★ Greek Gift 2 | 20m, 8 | Mapoutahi | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2016 | |||
Feels quite airy
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18 | ★★ Lucalucki | 32m, 13 | Wye Creek | Average | Fri 7th Mar 2008 | |||
Weird bolting.
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19 18 | ★★ Honey I Bolted The Crack | 15m, 5 | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Wed 5th Mar 2008 | |||
Hmm, could well be done on gear
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18 | ★★ Dog in Town | 18m, 5 | Gorge Road | ★ Good | Wed 19th Mar 2008 | |||
The move over the roof is nice I suppose.
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17 18 | ★ Up the Creek (Up the River) | 30m, 9 | Wye Creek | ★ Good | Fri 28th Mar 2008 | |||
Good the first time round, but would get tedious after a while.
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17 18 | ★★ About Time | 30m, 13 | Wye Creek | ★ Good | Fri 7th Mar 2008 | |||
Novelty climbing. Weird swirling rock.
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17 18 | ★ Rusty Pins | 15m, 6 | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Sun 10th Jan 2010 | |||
tricky in places
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18 | ★ Purple haze | 10m, 3 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Average | Sun 20th Mar 2016 | |||
Some nice jugs then easy run out top
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18 | ★★ Te Whanau | 20m, 5 | Motatapu Valley | ★★ Very Good | Thu 31st Mar 2016 | |||
Some time in the past, Rpt warm up today. Hard start
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17 | ★★ The Crack | 15m | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Sat 29th Mar 2008 | |||
Great gear. Its not Arapiles though.
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17 | ★★ Headbangers Arete | 20m, 5 | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Sat 29th Mar 2008 | |||
17 | ★ Get Kerfuffled | 20m, 8 | Motatapu Valley | ★ Good | Thu 31st Mar 2016 | |||
Sometime maybe 2010.
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17 | ★ Terrain Spotting | 20m, 6 | Motatapu Valley | ★ Good | Thu 31st Mar 2016 | |||
Some time in the past
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16 | Infinite Inveigling (infinite inviegeling) | 10m, 4 | Motatapu Valley | Average | Sat 30th Dec 2006 | |||
16 | ★★★ The Mission | 28m, 9 | Wye Creek | ★ Good | Fri 7th Mar 2008 | |||
the start doesnt flow. 3 star view though.
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16 | ★ Generation X | 10m, 3 | Motatapu Valley | Fri 31st Mar 2006 | ||||
15 | ★ Super Size Me | 10m, 4 | Motatapu Valley | Fri 31st Mar 2006 | ||||
14 | Roadside Rage | 8m, 3 | Motatapu Valley | Don't Bother | Sun 9th Mar 2008 | |||
Warming up
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14 | ★ Right Ascension | 10m, 4 | Motatapu Valley | Fri 31st Mar 2006 | ||||
15 14 | ★ Occupational Therapy | 10m, 4 | Motatapu Valley | Fri 31st Mar 2006 | ||||
14 12 | Zoftig | 12m | Motatapu Valley | Fri 31st Mar 2006 | ||||
Think I did all these with andrew stock in 2006. Ticked in the book.
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23 | ★★★ Jack Be Nimble | 25m, 6 | Motatapu Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Mar 2008 | |||
Nice flake moves.
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22 23 | ★★ Steelworks (Steelworks(i)) | 15m, 5 | Mount Iron | ★ Good | Fri 3rd Dec 2010 | |||
25 23 | ★★★ Blood On The Tracks | 27m, 10 | Wye Creek | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Jan 2010 | |||
Probably only 24. Shame about the start, the rest is superb!
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21 22 | ★★ Shark Chirac | 16m, 5 | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Wed 21st Dec 2005 | |||
crimpy goodness
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22 | ★★ Sisters of Mercy | 16m, 5 | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Wed 21st Dec 2005 | |||
nice and technical and easier than the pumpy 20s
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22 | ★ The Oatmeal Savage | 15m, 5 | Motatapu Valley | ★ Good | Sat 8th Mar 2008 | |||
sustained up a seam
|
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22 | ★★★ Take No Prisoners | 20m, 8 | Diamond Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Mar 2008 | |||
Super moves, super setting.
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22 | ★★ Iron Maiden (Iron Maiden(j)) | 15m, 5 | Mount Iron | Average | Fri 3rd Dec 2010 | |||
22 | ★★ Bush Lawyer (Bush Lawyer (C)) | 20m, 5 | Mount Iron | ★★★ Classic | Fri 3rd Dec 2010 | |||
grade 22 in guidebook
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21 22 | ★ Frogaroo (Frog Arms) | 12m, 5 | Wye Creek | ★ Good | Tue 12th Jan 2010 | |||
lots of holds, not all of them good
|
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22 | ★★★ Side Effect | 24m, 5 | Lovers Leap | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Mar 2016 | |||
Yay, not so much jamming
|
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21 22 | ★ End of the Eweniverse | 20m, 5 | Wye Creek | Average | Mon 28th Mar 2016 | |||
Not sure how I didn't fall off this. Short on holds around the second bolt
|
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20 21 | ★ 74HQ | 16m, 4 | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Wed 21st Dec 2005 | |||
one big move
|
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22 21 | ★ Jokers Gone Wild (Venus then off to the right) | 30m, 9 | Diamond Lake | ★ Good | Sat 8th Mar 2008 | |||
Tricky bottom to the arete
|
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20 21 | ★★ Hearts & Minds (Hearts and Minds) | 30m, 12 | Diamond Lake | ★ Good | Tue 4th Mar 2008 | |||
Interesting through bulge
|
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21 | ★ Chink in the Armour | 15m, 5 | Mount Iron | Average | Sun 10th Jan 2010 | |||
sandbagged and told it was a 17 warm up
|
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20 21 | Urban Hang (Left end) | 15m, 5 | Mount Iron | Average | Fri 14th Sep 2012 | |||
21 | ★ Reefer Madness | 16m, 7 | Motatapu Valley | Average | Sat 2nd Apr 2016 | |||
Didn't like this that much, felt very pumpy
|
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21 | ★★ Aretenaphobia | 13m, 3 | Motatapu Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Apr 2016 | |||
Have done before, about 10 years ago.
|
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20 | ★ Mum's on the Run | 14m, 3 | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Wed 21st Dec 2005 | |||
pumpy
|
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20 | ★ Hey George | 30m, 14 | Diamond Lake | ★ Good | Wed 5th Mar 2008 | |||
A bit dirty, tricky up high
|
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19 20 | ★ Out There on the Edge (Out there on the Edge (k)) | 15m, 5 | Mount Iron | Average | Fri 3rd Dec 2010 | |||
20 | ★★ No Thanks I'd Rather Walk | 15m, 10 | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Sun 10th Jan 2010 | |||
a bit loose near the top
|
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19 20 | ★ Full Empty | 18m, 6 | Wye Creek | ★ Good | Wed 13th Jan 2010 | |||
the start was tough
|
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20 | ★★ Bowels of Mercy | 14m, 3 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Average | Sun 20th Mar 2016 | |||
A few nice moves then rambling top
|
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22 19 | ★★ Falcon Screech (Falcon Steep) | 25m, 7 | Hospital Flat | ★ Good | Tue 4th Mar 2008 | |||
Pumpy crimps. Choice bro.
|
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19 | ★★ Basic Instinct | 30m, 11 | Diamond Lake | ★ Good | Tue 4th Mar 2008 | |||
Nice juggy top section
|
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19 | ★★ Dried and Bagged | 28m, 11 | Diamond Lake | ★ Good | Sat 8th Mar 2008 | |||
apparently this only used to have 4 bolts in 25 metres. Better now.
|
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19 | ★★ In Flagrante Dilecto | 20m, 5 | Motatapu Valley | ★ Good | Sun 18th Dec 2005 | |||
better than the slush around Pioneer Hut
|
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19 | ★★ Chinese Hospitality | 15m, 6 | Motatapu Valley | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Apr 2016 | |||
Interesting feature
|
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18 | ★★ Jock the Frotterer | 18m, 5 | Motatapu Valley | ★ Good | Sun 18th Dec 2005 | |||
pumpy for the grade
|
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17 18 | ★★ Don't Be Deceived | 32m, 8 | Wye Creek | Average | Fri 7th Mar 2008 | |||
! good move.
|
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18 | ★ Nasal Excavations | 14m, 5 | Motatapu Valley | ★ Good | Sun 1st Feb 2004 | |||
nice for schist!
|
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17 18 | ★ Incy Wincy Spider | 15m, 4 | Wye Creek | Average | Mon 28th Dec 2009 | |||
makes the trad route redundant
|
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18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2016 | |||
Nice stemming
|
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18 17 | ★ Heart of Darkness | 25m, 10 | Gorge Road | Average | Wed 19th Mar 2008 | |||
Not sure if this was it. Better than it looks.
|
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19 17 | Jug of Speights | 25m, 13 | Motatapu Valley | Average | Mon 31st Mar 2008 | |||
Competes with the Nutty Professor as the biggest sandbag in Wanaka
|
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17 | ★★ Golden Showers | 20m, 8 | Mapoutahi | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2016 | |||
Quite nice
|
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15 | Glen's | 25m, 8 | Motatapu Valley | Average | Sat 8th Mar 2008 | |||
nice views of the river from the top
|
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25 | ★★ Irony | 15m, 5 | Mount Iron | ★ Good | Fri 14th Sep 2012 | |||
3 visits, not a bad route
|
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25 | ★★★ Lollapalooza (Lollapallooza) | 25m, 9 | Motatapu Valley | ★★ Very Good | Thu 31st Mar 2016 | |||
Took a while to stick the low roof moves. The top is just rather pumpy.
|
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24 | ★★ My Little One | 20m, 7 | Diamond Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Mar 2008 | |||
Another onsight that got away. (2) Hard all the way.
|
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24 | ★★★ Zoot Alors | 25m, 7 | Motatapu Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Mar 2008 | |||
Tried to do the 30 by mistake, but even when on track itTook a few more attempts than it should!
|
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24 | ★★ Equilibrium | 22m, 9 | Wye Creek | ★ Good | Mon 28th Mar 2016 | |||
Quite desperate even second go as I wobbled up this
|
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22 | ★★ Doing the World a Favour | 20m, 6 | Hospital Flat | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Jan 2010 | |||
was going fine til the top
|