Help

Lovers Leap

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Columnar basalt climbing in a stunning setting.

Description

Double ropes useful as guides do not include chain approach in route length. Most routes have 4 m of choss at the base, and chains or close bolts to bypass this. Mostly shady, and windy in a southerly. However in summer the sun hits the wall from about 1pm for a few hours and it can get hot if a northerly is blowing.

Access issues

Worthwhile looking at cliff from DOC lookout first. Follow signposted track to Lovers Leap from car park.

Approach

The descent starts 100m before look out. Cross the fence at small stile and head down steep grassy gully before sidling around ridge to base of crag at its right end.

Where to stay

Portobello. Camping not permitted in car park

Ethic

Trad and bolts.

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

A bridging groove with cams and wires, leads past 4 bolts to a small roof. A bulge with a final bolt leads to an easier, but run-ou,t finish.

Stemming box (fingers and hands) directly above the first "batman" chain

Used to be two pitches of grade 20 called The Long and Winding Road. A big pillar fell off the first pitch, which is now called VW and is an excellent grade 23 sport climb up a v corner. Six bolts. The second pitch is still grade 20 and takes plenty of gear.

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Fri 25 Feb
Check out what is happening in Lovers Leap.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文