Columnar basalt climbing in a stunning setting.
Many routes have 4 meters of choss at the base with chains or close bolts to bypass this. Some climbs are at the danger length* so be careful when lowering off. A 60m rope will suffice for most routes but double ropes can be handy, too.
It is mostly shady but remarkably sheltered from a northerly wind - a nice contrast from other Dunedin crags. Even a southerly is okay. Cracks can stay greasy after rain but some routes dry quickly. In summer the sun hits the wall from about 1pm for a few hours.
*and a chain approach is usually not included in the route length
Closed in lambing season, usually only from October to mid-September but check the DOC website for the Sandymount track.
From the road end car park, follow the clock-wise track through the macrocarpas and beyond to the backside of Sandymount. Just before you get to the cliff edge of Lovers Leap (this is pretty obvious!), find the boundary fence and cross it at the small rickety stile. Then you can either:
Head down the steep grassy gully before sidling around the ridge to the base of the crag at its right end. Don’t sidle too late!
Follow a rough path along the ridge, occasionally avoiding obstacles by traveling on the gully side of the ridge (slightly faster but more exposed)
Portobello. Camping not permitted in car park. There are no toilets nearby.
Trad and bolts.
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