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Lovers Leap

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Summary

Columnar basalt climbing in a stunning setting.

Description

Many routes have 4 meters of choss at the base with chains or close bolts to bypass this. Some climbs are at the danger length* so be careful when lowering off. A 60m rope will suffice for most routes but double ropes can be handy, too.

It is mostly shady but remarkably sheltered from a northerly wind - a nice contrast from other Dunedin crags. Even a southerly is okay. Cracks can stay greasy after rain but some routes dry quickly. In summer the sun hits the wall from about 1pm for a few hours.

*and a chain approach is usually not included in the route length

Access issues

Closed in lambing season, usually only from October to mid-September but check the DOC website for the Sandymount track.

Approach

From the road end car park, follow the clock-wise track through the macrocarpas and beyond to the backside of Sandymount. Just before you get to the cliff edge of Lovers Leap (this is pretty obvious!), find the boundary fence and cross it at the small rickety stile. Then you can either:

  1. Head down the steep grassy gully before sidling around the ridge to the base of the crag at its right end. Don’t sidle too late!

  2. Follow a rough path along the ridge, occasionally avoiding obstacles by traveling on the gully side of the ridge (slightly faster but more exposed)

Where to stay

Portobello. Camping not permitted in car park. There are no toilets nearby.

Ethic

Trad and bolts.

Areas

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Grades

Routes

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Grade Route

A bridging groove with cams and wires, leads past 4 bolts to a small roof. A bulge with a final bolt leads to an easier, but run-ou,t finish.

Stemming box (fingers and hands) directly above the first "batman" chain

FA: Steve Carr

Used to be two pitches of grade 20 called The Long and Winding Road. A big pillar fell off the first pitch, which is now called VW and is an excellent grade 23 sport climb up a v corner. Seven bolts. The second pitch is still grade 20 and takes plenty of gear.

Belay from the Bird Dropping/ VW anchor.

Pitch 1: grade 21, 1 bolt. Step left past the bolt, then back right to a ledge. Tenuous bridging to the chains. Don't fall onto the ledge!

Pitch 2: grade 24, 3 bolts. Negotiate the roof to the arete.

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Thu 27 Jul
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