Nodes in Pipeline Walls

The first climbs above the track you come to when following the Waitawheta River from the car park. Just around the big corner in the track is the start for Berkeley Square and Nightingale. Usually in the shade and close to water holes. Good for hot summer days.

This route routes breaks through the overhang above the pipeline at the last bend before the bridge. Aid the overhang using 2 bolts. Once a second overhang is reached climb directly up on good gear. Follow grooves and slabs by the easiest line until you can move left onto a ledge. This is shared with the top of the second pitch of Berkeley Square.

P1: Aid through same overhang as Nightingale, then move left for 7m under the big roof until a belay stance with a bolt and good wire. P2: Climb up and slightly right for 3m then move up and right on slab on top of the second overhang. Continue up groove on right and ledges to the top of Nightingale. Double bolt belay. P3: Climb out left to the rib and swing round onto slab. Climb the slab the slab to its highest point keeping to the cleanest rock. Double bolt belay. P4: Not generally climbed now but it is possible to climb further slabs up and right. Belay and descend from pine trees.

Climb the steep groove past 2 bolts and then the arête starting from the jug on the left. Climb mostly on the right of the arête from the jug past the next few bolts to where the climbing eases back to big holds. Follow your nose through the overhanging section to the belay ledge. Avoid trying to sneak around the first tricky section by grovelling up the dirty groove on the right as it is also loose (significantly easier, possibly grade 19 if the arete is avoided by climbing the groove).

Starts 20m left of the first 2 routes. It is an unpleasant dirty route starting at an obvious groove system with a hanging iron spike. Climb to the iron spike and continue in the groove, digging out gear placements as you go. Join Shadowlands belay ledge. Used to be aided past the spike (14/A1) and continued to the top of the cliff. May be harder than the grade depending on how dirty it is.

Starting upstream from the bridge, almost at water level on a blocky buttress. Climb 8m to loose ledges. Head up the groove above past a peg (crux) until you can step right onto the rib. Climb easy ground to the top. Descend back down bushy gully on the right until a sing abseil will reach the ground. This description is old and needs updating.

The obvious high-level rib overlooking the large pool upstream. It is past the old mine workings where the gorge narrows. Cross stream and head up through bush to the right of the rib. Step left for 3m until a small cave is reached. Climb out of the cave and follow a shallow corner past a peg until you can step right to easier ground. Descent via abseil. This description is old and needs updating.