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Picnic wall
You will need to be a bit organised to climb at Shawthing Rock… Ring/text at least a day before to book in (not after 9pm please), it’s a working farm; there may be hazards to tell you about. • Stephen Shaw 021-742-988 • Access is a privilege. Not a right. • Probably closed in the wet winter months. • No dogs, no shooting. The normal stuff! • Follow the leave no trace guide- so take all your rubbish (Including biodegradable) out with you. • Only one group per day. |
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★ Hobson's Choice
The start is hard, with a greasy finger crack. Best done in the summer then the crack is the driest. Off set wires and cams are handy. The first ascent was done in 2 pitches(in memory of Arapiles), belaying on the ledge that separates the lower finger crack from the upper hand crack. You will need size 1 to 4 cams in the second half. it has been done as one pitch. Double bolt and chain Anchor. |
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★★★ Patience
Balance-y face climbing leads to a great finger crack, that widens to hand size near the top. Cams 0.3 to 2, and mid sized hex's and a wire are handy. Double 12mm glue in bolts, chain and Maillon Rapide anchor. |
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★★ Dave's Crack
I (Stephen) first cleaned it and decided it was to dangerous due to a large unstable pillar at the bottom. About a year later Dave Garrity cleaned some more and levered off the big pillar, which now lies at the bottom. Behind it was a nice crack! Bryce Martin added a bolt and chain anchor. He was the 1st to free lead it. Take lots of # 2 cams, big cams size 4 and 5 are good on the crux, and hexes and wires are handy. Tape your hands! or wear crack gloves. |
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