Routes as trad in Waikato

The right hand crack system 3 meters left of the arete. Save your big gear for the top section. An excellent climb.

The obvious corner crack and roof system. Climb the finger crack around two roofs to the double bolt belay.

The crack immediately left of The Gecko Groove. 17 if climbed using only the thin crack and face to start.

The right-facing corner and crack system.

The obvious hand crack, take a few #3 cams. Probably quite a hard scary lead if you can't jam.

The long flake/crack with a small roof low down. Move right around the roof and step up the ledges, then balancy but well protected moves onto the face. Continue more easily up the crack to the DBC belay.

Climb the face until you reach the crack on the left side of the pillar. Climb the crack to a bolted belay on top of the pillar.

A bit of everything. Bridge and layback start, hand jam middle, face climb top. Take some small gear for the top.

The long clean right-facing corner hand and fist crack with a small roof halfway. Classic, sustained and very well protected. Abseil to the anchors on Sunset Ledge.

The left-facing corner near a Kanuka tree. Bridge and pull through the easy roof, then up and traverse right near the top (don't go between the trees), finishing up The Slot Machine.

P1: (19) Go up near the right hand arete, moving left at the second bolt then continuing through the bulge to the anchor (6 bolts).

P2: (18) Continue to the obvious finger crack and up to the final anchor. Rappel off or traverse around the exposed arete. No bolts.

Climb the left-facing corner and crack to the bolted belay on the ledge below the bulge. A great trad lead for beginners.

Hand to finger crack starts at the tree.

This line is permanently closed to all climbers

Climb the face to the right until you reach the crack on the right side of the BB pillar. Same anchors as BB.

The classic finger crack.

The serrated finger crack and bridge corner on the face left of Rohan's Little Sister, topping out above its anchors. A good first trad lead, extremely well protected on cams or nuts and hexes. At some point you need to commit to moving across, if you do so at the slot lower down (as per the ground-up first ascent) and just use the crack the grade is about 17.

Pronounced KOO-kee-lee-KOO. Climb the wide flaring chimney/crack left of Jug Addiction, continue through the cave (runout) and a steeper layback finish. Tree or gear belay, and easy walk up to the bottom of Sex Panther.

The overhanging wide crack/corner. Rappel / lower as far right as you can to avoid your rope getting caught in the crack.

One of the best multi-pitch trad climbs in the North Island, some say it is even the best.

Pitch 1: (17) Start from the ledge just right of the big pinnacle from the fixed rope. Climb through the above bulges before moving left under a small roof and through the groove. Belay in the cave (Trad belay)

Pitch 2: (18) Climb through the roof of the cave to a ledge system. Begin the traverse left to a lower ledge system. Continue traversing to a v groove with a crack in the roof above you (Trad belay)

Pitch 3: (22) The money pitch. Blast through the roof crack to easier ground. Follow the finger crack and the corner to the easy head wall and bolted belay. This pitch can be easily aided.

Climb the corner crack system at about grade 14 to the large intermediate ledge. Then continue out left round the arching roof crack. A secret hold provides salvation. DRB belay. (Pro, CD, Hex, Wires)

The long open book corner and thin crack. Start up the unprotected slab to gain the corner. Clip the first 2 bolts of Great Scott further right if you aren't game for that. Spaced stances and small gear make this a solid proposition at the grade.

Pumpy face and crack climbing following up the snaking crack left of the arete. Has 2 bolts before and after the crack.

Classy and absorbing, and recently cleaned. The thin seam and slab 2m left of The Hecklers. Small gear, has a reputation for being a bit run out at the balancy crux but there is enough gear if you take the time to look for it. Abseil to halfway anchors on the arete.

Enticing corner crack with small overlap at ~12m. Great gear.

Up the obvious crack in the middle of the face, then climbs parallel to Curious Kiwi, placing some good & some average gear (especially at the crux), instead of using the C.K. Bolts out left. Not recommended unless you have triple 0.5's (large finger size) and feel very comfortable at the grade.

Starting from the low alcove, bridge the corner and crack and pull over the small roof (crux). Continue more easily up the crack with a wall at left and over a ledge then up to reach the bolted belay. Abseil off and move left to reach the Sunset Ledge anchor (don't miss it).

1: Start 5m right and up from Captain Caveman, up the fully bolted wall to a ledge and anchor. 2: Head left over the bush to reach the wild exposed finger crack up the edge of the cave, protected on gear. Continue to a bolt-protected arete and slab then anchor. You can top out by heading up into the top pitch of Captain Caveman or Cave Boy.

Heading up the offwidth crack, following it as it trends right to the top.

The obvious crack line less than a meter left of Ignimbrite which nastily retrobolted it. Watch the rock quality down low. The FA is contentious.

P1: (12m Gear) Climb the corner below the tree and then another corner to the base of the pillar. Trad anchor. P2: (8m, 2 bolts) Climb the chimney on the left side of the pillar. Same belay as Sidewinder.

A superb route up the right-hand crack of the flake. Protection is good round the flake then one bolt in the face. Belay at the chains or keep going to the higher belay of Tunnel Web Spider. (Pro CD, Wires)

Straight up the crack in the middle of the face.

A great easy trad line. Re-cleaned in 2020 by Alice Heath. The number 5 cam is handy at the top.

Pitch 1 (15) Climb the crack and move left to the arete, continuing past 5 bolts and a wire placement, finish up the top crack of The Sweet and the Savage. (27m, 5b)

Pitch 2: (15) Right and up past 3 bolts to the belay. (5m, 3b)

Pitch 1 (21): Up overlap to the slab, then left and follow a crack though steep rock between the left arete and the pink wall. Sustained through the top half (crux). (20m)

Pitch 2 (14): up and left following the easy splitter hand crack. (20m)

Pitch 3 (18): Build an anchor 3m left of the Jugzilla anchors, climb up to reach a seam and follow that diagonally right 5m, mantle the spike and head straight up. Exposed but well protected. (12m)

The right-facing corner with a hand/fist crack and tight dihedral around the corner from Rohan's Little Sister. Take small cams for the top. Has an independent anchor.

A nice climb with excellent protection. Up the crack/chimney , shares anchors with Bite Me Gently.

Follow the obvious crack in the dihedral. The difficulty increases where the angle changes.

An excellent climb whether done in two pitches or one long one. Climb the right side of the initial face to a ledge. Good holds and a vague groove lead to a leftwards slanting crack with a piton near the top of it. Above this easy climbing leads to a small ledge on the rib with a bolt belay. Belay here or lead on. Step left and gain a large ledge via the corner. There are 2 bolts (replacing old pitons) that protect the corner and moves off the ledge. Climb directly above the far right end of the ledge to a good wire and easy climbing to the large sloping ledge above. There is a bolt belay at the back of the ledge. A third pitch is possible above this but is very short.

Follow right leaning crack. Rock a bit friable.

NOT the bolts, that is Wild Country Express. The corner crack on trad gear. Be careful of the rock at top.

The fist crack and corner starting down below Dog's Breakfast , finishing at a DBC anchor on top of the stacked blocks (or continue up Dog's Breakfast).

2m left of the original Mad Carew start, climb directly to the hanging fang passing 2 bolts. Then as for Mad Carew. The recommended way to climb MC.

3 bolts on first pitch, none on second.

The small corner groove at the far right hand end of the crag . Climb the slab & arete then pull over the small overhanging section onto the slab above. From this point climb the twin crack’s in the head wall and belay further back in the bush, DRB belay. (Pro CD, Wires, Hex)

The obvious open book corner that finishes at Mowgli's anchor. Great gear most of the way. Sling the tree at the top.

hard back and footing to layback and anchor off trees. Good fun 15.

Left most route of the crag following the obvious crack.

P1: (18) Start right of Guardians Of The Galaxy up the finger crack, past a 2 bolt anchor and up the arete passing another anchor. (11 bolts)

P2: (17) Climb upwards left of the pillar, then through a cracks system that goes into the roof, finishing on the rightward ledge. (3 bolts)

Start as for Smear Tactics, but at the third bolt continue up and right, following the bolts up the arete. Gear placements are required to manage runouts.

Climb up the steep right facing corner then through the small over hang, crux. Continue up the crack and groove system above, then break out left higher up onto the head wall (bolt) and the DRB belay of Where to From Here. The gear placements are a little difficult to arrange but sound.

From the end of the wall right of Dancing on Rainbows, climb up and generally left to the same anchors. Gear in pockets.

The obvious crack next to 'Streetwise'. Starts narrow and progressively widens to Camalot #4-5 at the top. First ascent uncertain, but sometime in the 1990s, and possibly Bryce.

The obvious crack on the left side of the boulder. It has been done as a highball (V3) if you dare...

Climb/jam the left crack, continue past trees to large block, exit left to Mellow Yellow anchors

Climb the obvious corner straight up and over the bulge. This is the crux but it is well protected with fail safe bomber wire placements. Continue up the groove above. Move left near the top and finish on the large belay ledge. DBC belay and the protection is good if you take your time arranging it. [Pro: CD, W]

Corner right of LnR. Finish over triangular block. Double bolt anchor.

The twin cracks, finishing left to the Peach Teats anchor.

P1: The slab 10m right of LWOHS with 3 bolts and a crack for gear. P2: Up the thin crack and stay left of the roof. Finish up thin crack.

Jam and layback the fist-to-offwidth crack to reach a large ledge, then jam the corner hand crack to a DBC belay.

Finger crack at the end of the lower tier. You can sit in the tree for belaying. Bring small cams. From the top of this climb you have access to the wall of sirens.

Start is the same as 'Ben’s Big Day Out'. At ledge gain the handcrack. Follow crack till crux move onto bolt on left. Follow bolts to belay.

Pitch 1: Ramp and left facing layback corner finishing at a tree with a bolted belay. 12m Pitch 2: Right facing corner to the ledge. Tree belay 6m. Pitch 3: Climb the groove to the left through a bulge and finger crack or climb the finger to hand crack to the right. 12m

Scramble up the small gully to access this climb. Head up the crack and right-facing corner, ignoring the retro-bolts

A nice long corner, exit left at the top to the bolts for Counter Intuitive

Better than it looks. The broken corner and crack system - take a full range of gear. Traverse left to reach the Flight of the Pachyderm rap anchor (recommended), or scramble off up the loose gully.

Start form the belay bolt 2m left of Spartacus. Thin trad climbing.

The terrific looking rising traverse crack leads to a crux getting around the corner and onto the ledge. Optional trad belay (or keep going if you have managed rope drag well), then easier climbing to a bolted anchor. You won't be able to see your second, and maybe won't be able to communicate either. Plan accordingly.

Small cams useful. First climbed on small hexes.

Go up the obvious wide crack right of Sugar Daddy. Do not clip the bolts if you want to do it like the first ascensionist.

P1.(15) From the ledge scramble to the twin cracks to the left. Climb the left-hand crack to the good ledge and rings. P2.(18) From the belay ledge, climb and scramble up and establish yourself on the wall to the left of the obvious piton. Traverse right to good holds and then up into the horizontal break. There was a piton here that has since rusted out but a large cam in an obvious slot does the trick. Get some good pro in the thinner crack above before launching out of the break and up the wall above, using the crack and holds either side. Follow the crack/seam to the good belay ledge and a double bolt belay. P3.(12) From the belay go right along the ledge and climb the left side of the arete. Rings are below the pinnacle top, directly above the 2nd pitch belay.

Looks like a lightning bolt cracked the cliff, starts small and gets wider towards the top. Was the classic Wellington route to womble up, but surprisingly spicy for the grade. Tree near the top or anchors of "Orchestrated Litany of Lunges", you can build an anchor at the bottom with small cams.

Trad plus 2 optional bolts. The obvious corner cracks. Purists wanting to go full-trad can skip the bolts and finish at the higher anchor (with a double rack up to 4's). Those with a single rack (or double hand sizes to sew it up), can exit early onto the nice slab arête, finishing on the big ledge. Shares an anchor with Kaa's Kingdom.

First half of climb on trad (or abseil in to set top rope from first bolt about 10m up and lead the short headwall). Hard start to good crack, following this up into corner for awkward moves to reach first of 3 bolts on headwall.

Ungradeable, might be the longest 8m of your life. Rap down from the tree at the base of The Hecklers to a pointy block at the waterline, insinuate yourself into the wide crack and thrutch up through the body squeeze. Protectable by #5 and #6 cams, but you may prefer to lose the harness (and helmet) and solo it unless you are fairly skinny. Take care around the loose block inside.

The wide crack on the left side of the small face.

Climb the groove then continue up the crack into the large right-facing corner. Climb the face, using small wires for pro, with some delicate climbing to the DBC belay.

Grovel up the dirty gully above Jugzilla until you reach an aesthetic overhang.

Pitch 1 (13) Bridge up the chimeny using generous foot-holds. Mantle the ledge to your right and build an anchor 3m to the left of Jugzilla bolts.

Pitch 2 (18) (Also the third pitch of ThunderGod) Follow the right tending crack for ~5 meters and then climb the featured face straight up. Exposed but well protected climbing with some cool moves!

Either start out right or do the pleasant little boulder problem start straight up the arete. Clip the peg then continue up on easier ground till you reach the finger crack proper, a cool head is required and a few micro cam placements can be found. Pleasant climbing up the crack to the DBC belay ledge of Rockness Monster. [Pro: Small & Med CD, W]

The dirty crack to the right of Human Intervention. Head up the crack until you're almost at the top, then head right to the anchor of Safety In Numbers.

The steep hand crack below the 'Infidel' arete.

The thin crack in the corner, just left of 'Hare Rama'.

The obvious corner crack with the huge triangular detached flake and tree up top. Tree anchor, descent via the hand line down the steep gully.

An adventure. Up and right from the start of The Root, then a committed move rightwards will establish you in the wide groove. Jam your way up the crack to the pine tree, sling it, then climb the right side of the tree until you can regain the rock. Continue up past the next tree following the right-hand crack system (don't escape left to The Root anchors), until you reach a single bolt just below the DBC anchor. Take a wide range of cams, nuts and slings. You can rap off on a 60m rope.

Traverse diagonally left behind the trees, then up through the disconnected crack system then tend right to reach a reasonably stout manuka tree (possible belay). If rope drag has been well-managed it is possible to continue up to the Elephant Hunting chains to belay, and possibly up the final short pitch of that to rap anchors.