Nodes in Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington

High ball boudering & some sport climbing amongst epic ocean beaten greywacke. Considered as one of the birthplaces of bouldering in NZ. Expect stiff, intimidating but rewarding climbs in a unique setting.

More detailed descriptions of the climbs and photos can be found here: https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/wellington/baring-head

Long boulder and larger wall seen when first approaching from the Wainuiomata side

Low traverse on the first decent sized boulder when approaching the entrance. Some sneaky holds, great problem.

Found on the wall directly behind RYF. For V6 stick to holds in the yellow band and avoid using heel hooks.

Traverse.

The easiest way to the top. Climb the obvious groove. The best way down after completing boulders on the sides of Seaward Boulder.

The small overhanging face. At the top veer left. Variations exist with eliminate options.

Excellent boulder with some scoopy jugs. High for a boulder with a fall onto the sand. Optional sit start adds a grade. Big move to a triangular knob left of the arete.

The boulder in the corridor between the two main rocks. Does not look like a Split Apple.

Climb the left arete on its right side. Sit-start, then link a collection of slopey holds up the arete.

Climb the left side of the face. Begin on the rail, finish up the v groove.

The classic Baring Head problem. Straight up the middle of Split Apple. Can be done as a dyno raising the difficulty to V3. From the central jug, high feet, then dyno to the top.

From the central jug, dyno to the lip and exit direct.

Avoid the central jug, climb directly up and through the v groove.

Climb the right Arete while avoiding any good holds, instead using slopers and crimps.

Sit-start on the left arete and traverse right, stay below the height of the large rail at the right end of the wall.

Traverse left to right using the line of holds below the holds used for the Low Traverse.

A pleasant area: sunny, sheltered from southerlies and often escaping the worst of the northerlies. Despite being less than vertical, these slabs are not all easy – the holds are small to compensate for the lack of angle. These climbs are tests of delicate footwork and mental control. Some bolts on top make it possible to top-rope these routes, but they are not beginners’ climbs.

The best route on the slabs. The landing is better than it used to be, but you still wouldn't want to fall off. After a few thin moves at one-third height, perfect holds appear just as you need them. Top out straight up.

An easy start leads to thought-provoking moves through the ledge and bulge. Finish on the rib bordering the chimney. Unlike the left-hand route on this slab, people have fallen off this route and survived.

Classic. An excellent sequence uses a vague diagonal crack to gain a good flake about 3m up. Good, sometimes well-spaced holds follow.

Sustained climbing on thin edges.

A pleasant number. Climb just right of the arete using a series of horizontal breaks. Stay close to the arete – easier climbing lies further right but so does a bad landing. Mantle the ledge near the top: a secret hold around to the left makes this feel secure

Begin right of the Stepping Out arete and traverse left, finishing on the ledge to the right of Loaded. Has also been climbed left to right.

An excellent route up the arete, with long moves between good holds.

Start up Stepping Out and then into the final moves of A Show Of Strength.

A classic test-piece and the first boulder to be assigned the grade V8 in NZ. Starting 2m left of the arête, pull up and right to a narrow slot in the seam. Holding this, cross over with your left hand (crux) to the pod used on Stepping Out. Match, then make a committing move up and left to a sloper. Bring your other hand up then lunge for the top. Stay off the arête. If you avoid the cross-over, you only get 7 points. (Beta Video - https://vimeo.com/256560098)

This problem links Speeding Up into A Show Of Strength. Sustained crimping.

This problem eliminates the pod on A Show Of Strength. Instead of crossing over from the vertical slot, make a hard move left to a small crimp. Move your right hand up above the pod to a sloping seam then snatch to the sloper. Match and finish direct.

If you get bored, try linking Speeding Up into Power, Corruption and Lies.

Climb the wall immediately right of the crack on tiny holds. Finish up Loaded (always with hands and feet right of the crack). Better than you might think.

Start up the obvious crack. Once at the rounded lip, move right under the bulge and climb straight up.

A beautiful series of edges in the crack.

Opposite stepping out on the lean to boulder. Gain two small slots in the obvious horizontal break and step high to reach a good side pull. Top out over the bulge via small holds.

Just to the right of Lost Boys, climb the blank face via feisty crimps and a positive two finger edge. Eases off for the top out.

Starts just right of Neils Arete. A variety of good holds lead up to an unusual two finger pocket, crank off this to the jug and exit direct.

Committing. Veer up and left to the bulge. Grope over the bulge for a vague edge in the middle of the scoop. Continue up right using some passable holds, finishing with a high step-up onto the scoop.

AKA ‘The Scoop’. A classic problem that requires good footwork, subtle movements and fingers of steel.