Routes as trad in Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington

Climb the obvious groove/crack. Wide gear or fiddly gear, your choice

Double Bolt Belay.

Climb the wall past a bolt, then place a cam or two in the crack and complete the crux. Single bolt belay.

Climb the face right of the arete (don't use the arete though) in small edges. Classic face climbing, though protection is non-existent.

The central line, using the seam for gear. Move right onto the arete near the top.

climb the left side of the face following a vague seam.

The left-arching vague crack

Go up the slab then commit to the overlap, which is protected by a bolt.

Double bolt belay.

11,13

1. Up slab to a double bolt belay.

2. Crack to top of wall. Double bolt belay.

The large slab. Good pro and a double bolt belay.

1. (14, 25m) From the beach, climb the short steep wall on to the slab. Now follow the right-hand edge of the face to belay at the ledge.

2. (14, 20m) Directly up the ridge to the top. The large flake is loose to touch: be careful!

start just behind the cabbage tree

Climb diagonally leftwards below the arete formed by the edge of the pinnacle.

A short, well protected climb taking the crack system directly up to the DBA of 'My Mate Dave'. Positive holds.

Strenuous but well protected climbing: pull over the first overhang and into a crack, which continues to the top and a double bolt belay.

Follow the crack up the slab and through the bush to a ledge mantle and then continue up the wide crack to either a natural anchor and walk off or rap from the "Too Much.." anchors.

Double bolt belay.

starts under the roof, then go though the overlap.

climb the blunt arete, clipping the bolt on piles.

This climb is on the right-hand arete. Climb the wall on good holds to ledges, the continue up to the double bolt belay.

Over the small roof and onto the headwall

Climb the crack system on natural gear to join Dolphinius at its third bolt. A more consistent pitch for the grade than its neighbour.

Pad up the countersunk slab to the large crack. Climb this and step around on to the north side of the ridge to belay. There is now a double bolt anchor for instructional purposes at the top of the slab.

Grade 15,13

Double bolt belay.

Quite a wandering climb

1. (21m) Climb the large corner to the ledge in the middle of the face and the Black Back Cleft belay.

2. (23m) Up and back left across the slab to the ridge, and on to the summit.

15, 19. Shares first pitch with Gobey's nose.

Traverses the whole wall at about mid height from just right of Dysentery Groove to Dolly Varden.

Start two metres right of the corner up a good crack to the big ledge. Can be climbed as an alternate first pitch to Black Back Cleft, or you can continue on up the second pitch of that route to make one long 40 metre pitch.

15, 14. Shares first pitch with Gobey's nose.

Double bolt belay (as for Cistern).

Double bolt belay.

The corner on the left side of the Gallery is a good looking line. Climb a crack to the ledge and the poorly protected corner above. Double bolt belay.

Double bolt belay.

The corner on the right side of the Gallery is strenuous and technical, but good protection can be arranged in the crack. At the remains of an old peg, move into the right-hand groove with difficulty and continue up and right to the double bolt belay.

Up the right facing ramp.