Routes as sport in North America

"The best sport 13a in America?"

Fully bolted big wall route.

Ruta muy escénica de pericos. Inicio un poco bloquero. Pasando el árbol que marca la mitad de la via comienza una serie de slabs muy sabrosos que se asemejan a algunos pasos en la bernalina.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFrzFdZySdw

De los mejores 5.11 de Pericos. Pasos largos a veces crimps a veces sloppers, grieta. En fin de todo en una sola vía.

Recomendado usar cintas largas alpinas para la primera y segunda placas, para eliminar arrastre de cuerda

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MZzMwPkhgg

Una via super clasica de pericos con un inicio algo fuerte como tipo v3 de bloque, luego de eso hay muchos sloppers que si giras el cuerpo se vuelven cazuelas, cuenta con 3 o 4 descansos donde puedes soltarte de las 2 manos.

POV: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXkB3gBfbtM

Comienzas escalando la cara de la derecha de Derrame que esta un poco a favor. Al final donde los movimientos son mas desplomados los agarres se encuentran del otro lado (derecho) de el filo.

POV: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orvKsHCGQXU

Es una ruta corta de fuerza en los dedos al inicio tiene desplome que termina a la mitad de la ruta.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LejeQokonQ

Ruta muy bonita para aprender a usar los pies y saber que puedes usar pisaderas que no creias posibles. Buen primer o segundo proyecto de escalada en exterior.

Buena via para calentar! Recomendado 1 o 2 cintas largas

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6e_PpoMmLnA

Esta ruta es la extension de Histeria siguiendo la grieta en diagonal a la izquierda hasta la reunion a la base de un árbol casi hasta arriba de pericos.

Dependiendo la epoca del año puede estar mojada o con murcielagos o con aves haciendo nidos en las grietas.

El grado esta dado usando tecnica de grieta, por lo que si decides darle de una forma un poco mas plaquera posiblemente sea mas como 5.11b.

Los pasos son largos pero muy divertidos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OYLEyfMDw8

A la izquierda del sector, una via muy divertida y con vista espectacular, chimenea al inicio y desplome al final.

Probablemente la ruta mas fotogenica de todas, tambien conocida como el pilar de la india. Tiene varias pancitas divertidas.

A la izquierda del sector

Cruxy start turns into a very nice layback route. Fun all the way.

An overhanging problem (leftmost climb at the crag). Bolted.

climb the bouldery arete just left of Jack's Crack. A bolted crux. A TCU in the crack above. Then up and over the hump to the chains.

Climb the big steps just left of Pamplemouse and then mantle up a slabby wall. Meets up with Pamplemouse at the crack.

Climb a ramp to a dihedral with a crack in the back, then step right to the anchors.

A couple bolts continue above the anchor, but the pitch above was never finished.

Starts far left, almost on the back side of the Mini Super wall.

Awkward, off-balance and twisty.

Starts up a dihedral, then pulls over a bulge to a short slab.

Shares last two bolts and anchor with "El Volvo Scorcho".

Climb the broken corner to a high first bolt, and generally climb right of the bolt line on mostly good holds.

Starts left of La Presa with a slab, first hanger missing.

Goes up the yellowish rock, has a name plate.

The rightmost of 3 routes, 10 feet over from Coca Cola.

Starts with a big block and leads into nice quartz pockets.

Starts 10 yards uphill from Empanada and climbs thru A-frame roof.

Left-most route, just outside the cave.

Right most route of the “Smurf Bowl”. Be careful not to jump onto “Chupacabras” on the 3rd bolt, instead keep going right.

Very popular route. Get up early to avoid the crouds. Best climbed on warm days since it is in the shade most of the day. Shares the first two pitches with "Off the couch"

Climbing

1. 5.9 Fun climbing to a ledge. There are a few unnecessary bolts off-route. There is a second anchor off to the right if the main one is occupied.

2. 5.10b short crux off the anchor offers two beta options. Often linked with P1

3. 5.9 Short unexpected crux comes early, then make use of your routefinding skills.

4. 5.10b Jamming, stemming, traversing will make your life easier. Don't be drawn too much into the path of least resistance.

5. 5.10a Fun exposed pitch.

6. 5.10c The crux goes through suspicious overhung flakes. Good foot technique will allow for much easier passage. Great positive holds breaks up the crux sequence.

7. 5.7 Can easily be linked with P6 with a little rope drag management. LOTS of loose rocks. Beware of parties below.

Very nice climb! most of the pitches are a bit hard for the grade. Pitch crux is a very technical slab. 2 ropes necessary.

Can be done with an 8 meter rope, but you will have to bail a biner to be able to rap to one of the anchors and also you will have to use the first anchor of Satori to get to the ground.

P1:This pitch is almost 50 mts long so you need 2 ropes for the rappel. techy climb on slab and vertical. P2: around 30m long P3: it traverses to the left with a spicy finish P4: short and powerfull climbs the roof P5: is like climbing a 30mts long fridge hugging.

for the rappel there is an anchor 8mts left of the 4th anchor. and form ther you can rappel 50mts down to anchor. ther you can move to the anchors of the route.