Routes as trad in North America

Instead of moving left at the first bolt of Senior Moment, continue straight up. At the top of P1, continue up over the overlap.

P1: Start on the far right of the lower apron, climb 5.6 cracks up to a slab, smear your way 2m left of the single bolt, then head up to the anchors between the trees.

P2: move the anchor left and smear up slab last bolts

P3: continue up slab last bolts.

Summit from the terrace along the eastern ridge.

South face, ends at the terrace.

From the terrace to the summit on the south side of the pillar.

Gear to 4". Yucky

Mixed to 2.5". P1 5.11a; P2 5.10c 6 bolts

The two cracks joining at the bolted anchor below the first bolted anchor of "Recompense".

The left line is actually the start to the climb called "Beast 666".

Left one is listed as 5.10b on MP and right one 5.10a PG.

Left of the Standard Route

#chimney

Inicia en la cara liza con 4 bolts y sube por el diedro desplomado

One more short, fiery route. Head straight up through the wobbly roots and horizontals. Adds a fun techy crux sequence into the upper crux of Straight Fire.

Offwidth corto, pero poderoso, termina igual que Alicia en el país de las maravillas!

Gear to 3"

About 10 foot of climbing at the grade, the rest is 3rd and 4th class. No summit anchor, and the national park don't like tat left behind.

Either simul rap off the summit, or, have someone on the ground tie-in to be a counter-balance and rappel off the other side, or, downclimb the route with a spot on the 10 foot crux which is in an alcove with some flat ground to land on.

This variation follows a series of small cracks between pitch 1 of Birthday Bunduru and Belly Full of Bug Bites. It has two possible starts:

1. Start as for Birthday Bunduru. After pulling the crux onto the slab, traverse all the way right across the slab, climb over a flake, then continue up the corner following a series of small cracks. Top out on the ledge and take your pick of anchor.

2. Start behind the boulder where Belly Full of Bug Bites begins. Make a couple thin unprotected moves to gain the weakness towards the left. Continue up the corner following a series of small cracks. Top out on the ledge and take your pick of anchor.

Belly Full of Bug Bites follows the right-most line the entire way up.

1. 5.10, 28m. Start from behind a large boulder, next to a yellow birch. Climb the offwidth to a ledge and traverse to the farther right anchor.

2. 5.9, 22m. Move right off the ledge and up a short staircased section to a crack above. Easier if you use the tree, maybe 5.8.

3. 5.6, 30m. Super fun offwidth pitch. Bonus points if you actually climb the offwidth/chimney (closer to 5.7-5.8).

4. 5.6, 27m. Walk right along the base of the slab and belay from below the obvious crack. Climb the shallow crack to the top, traverse right along the top of the slab, then climb the corner up two ledges to the anchor.

Starts after P1 of 'Papillon'

Short and easy. Good for teaching. Shares first bolt with 'The Invitation'.

Starts at the top of 'The Invitation'.

Starts at the top of 'The Invitation'. P1 is 5.3.

(Don't remember the number of bolts. At least 3 in the upper half.)

Starts on the ledge above 'Rising Tide'

Starts on the ledge above 'Disco Pants'/'Compass Rose'/'The Butterfly Effect'

Starts on the ledge above 'Disco Pants'/'Compass Rose'/'The Butterfly Effect'

Ruta mixta, inicia en fisura y se va en la repisa hacia salmo y termina en la misma R (posible variante de full trad por arigato)

Relais sur arbre.

Fisura en diedro !!

Fisura corta que termina arriba en el mismo árbol que Catalina, no tiene R bajar del árbol y también es acceso a otras vías arriba de la repisa

Rated R. Mixed to 4". P1 5.6-5.10a depending on what you pick to start with. P2 5.9. P3 5.11c. P4 5.12a. P5 5.10d. P6 5.6.

Mixed to 2".

Rated R. Gear to 3".

Rated R. Gear to 2".

Rated R. Gear to 2.5".

Rated R. Gear to 2.5".

Rated X. Mixed to 3"

Mixed to 2.5".

Rated R. Mixed to 4". Is bad.

Mixed to 2.5".

Gear to 2".

Rated R. Mixed to 1".

Mixed to 2.5".

Mixed to 2.5".

Mixed to 4".

Rated R. Mixed to 4". This route goes to the top of the cliff.

Gear to 3".

Unknown crack climb - 5.10a/b. Start on the right leaning finger crack, finish with another finger crack. Easier option - start in the corner. Area - first climbs you see as you come up the Island in the Sky trail.

This route heads straight up from the P2 anchor of Belly Full of Bug Bites. Climb up the wide crack to the cedar tree, then rejoin P3 of the original route. Bring your #5 cam!

Very nice crack with good gear. #0 cam is nice to have for the thin crux.

Birthday Bunduru follows the left-most line the entire way up.

1. 5.9, 25m. Climb the dual cracks, pull right onto the slab, then into a layback. Scramble to the ledge and traverse to the farthest left anchor.

2. 5.7, 23m. Follow the crack system, passing a cedar tree and dihedral to an anchor on a ledge.

3. 5.9, 36m. Make a couple thin slab moves to get into the next crack, up the crack and then traverse right to another cedar tree. Up the corner then across the slab at the top to the next anchor.

4. 5.5, 35m. Climb up the slab and flake. Traverse right along the top of the slab and climb the corner up two ledges to the final anchor.

5.10c/d? Unknown Route 4, starts from the top of the Unknown Route 1-3. Area left of Gang of Foreplay.

5.6? Low angle crack climb leading to bolted anchors. Shares anchor with two other slab climbs. Area - Left of Gang of Foreplay.

Voie juste avant le secteur du toit de bean. Commencer à droite ou à gauche du gros bloc puis suivre la fissure dans le coin jusqu'au 2 scellements. Apporter des petites protections

P1: Start on a ledgy and low angle slab. Move right and up to the easy prow feature. As the climbing gets steeper, the pro gets better. Find anchors at a stance. P2: Go left and up, then follow path of least resistance to anchors below a big pine tree.

leftmost line from the big ledge ending on Merrie-Woode anchor