Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Sport | |||||||||
6a+ | ★★ Slavko be - with S | 18m, 9 | Demir Kapija | ★ Good | Sat 15th Oct 2022 | ||||
One move wonder.
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6a 5c | ★ Palachinka - with Jens | 6 | Demir Kapija | Fri 12th Oct 2018 | |||||
Bis zur 3. Exe
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5b+ 5c | ★ Some technik | 8m, 6 | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Jun 2021 | ||||
Slippery footholds
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6b+ | ★★ Drakula | 8m, 6 | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Jun 2021 | ||||
Very sharp
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6a+ | ★★ Tara | 12m, 6 | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Jun 2021 | ||||
Sharp
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6a 5c | ★ Palachinka - with S, D | 6 | Demir Kapija | ★ Good | Mon 17th Oct 2022 | ||||
Maybe a bit close to the route on the right...
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5c 6a | ★★★ Alpinist - with S, D | 8m, 6 | Demir Kapija | Average | Sun 16th Oct 2022 | ||||
While most grades in Demir Kapija felt on point, this sector felt a bit off.
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6a 5c | ★ Some technik - with S, D | 8m, 6 | Demir Kapija | Average | Sun 16th Oct 2022 | ||||
While most grades in Demir Kapija felt on point, this sector felt a bit off.
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6a | ★★★ Alpinist | 8m, 6 | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | ||||
Surprisingly good.
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6a | ★★★ Alpinist - with Bojan Š | 8m, 6 | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | ||||
Jug land.
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6a+ | ★★ Tara - with Bojan Š | 12m, 6 | Demir Kapija | Crap | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | ||||
Crux is meh.
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5c ~6a | ★ Some technik - with Bojan Š | 8m, 6 | Demir Kapija | ★ Good | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | ||||
Entrance is slippery.
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6a+ ~6b+ | ★★ Drakula | 8m, 6 | Demir Kapija | Mon 1st May 2023 | |||||
If zou climb the bolts along,this can not be a 6a+. In the other guidebooks it says its a 6b+
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7b+ 7b | ★★★ Jelat | 25m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Feb 2014 | ||||
about 40 minutes of struggle
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7a 6c | ★★ Uno Santimento | Demir Kapija | ★ Good | Tue 25th Feb 2014 | |||||
6c+\7a
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6b+ | ★★ Svinsko rebro - with Alex Guide, Till | 20m | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st Mar 2015 | ||||
Very interesting route. The crux for me was one reachy move to a good hold, that you could not really see from below. If i recall correctly there was also need to trust underclings and step really high. Good route for mind training.
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5c 6a | ★★ Kolibri - with Till | Demir Kapija | Thu 18th Sep 2014 | ||||||
Good warmup in a sector without much easy climbs.
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6c 6b+ | ★★★ Ichebana - with Alexey Tselishchev | 20m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Classic | Thu 18th Sep 2014 | ||||
Very unique! Starting with a very big but slowly narrowing chimney with tufas on the left. Then a short overhanging section with many tufas and a reachy exit onto the face section of the climb. Manage your pump well and you have a chance
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5a | ★★ Puf - with jens | 15m | Demir Kapija | Mon 8th Oct 2018 | |||||
Mit Fäusten
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4 | ★★ Oi - with jens | 20m | Demir Kapija | Mon 8th Oct 2018 | |||||
Mit Fäusten
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5a | ★★ Puf | 15m | Demir Kapija | Mon 8th Oct 2018 | |||||
Ohne Hände
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4 | ★★ Oi | 20m | Demir Kapija | Mon 8th Oct 2018 | |||||
Ohne Hände
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6a+ |
★★ Skripach ne nuzen
- with
Jens, Birgit
1
6a+
| 80m | Demir Kapija | Tue 9th Oct 2018 | |||||
Nur erste Seillänge
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6a | ★★ Kin-Dza-Dza - with Jens, Birgit | 25m | Demir Kapija | Tue 9th Oct 2018 | |||||
Nur erste Seillänge
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5c |
★★ Pepelats
- with
Jens, Birgit
1
5c
| Demir Kapija | Tue 9th Oct 2018 | ||||||
Nur erste Seillänge
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6+ |
★★★ Patriotka (routes on the left side of the river) (Patriotka)
- with
olaf
1
6+
| 80m | Demir Kapija | Tue 9th Oct 2018 | |||||
Nur erste Seillänge (6+ UIAA)
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4 | ★★ Ne sramota - with Jens | Demir Kapija | Thu 11th Oct 2018 | ||||||
Onsight unnötigerweise verkackt
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6c 6c+ | ★★ Aaron | 40m | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th May 2019 | ||||
6c+ 6c | ★★★ MC’s way | 45m | Demir Kapija | Mon 27th May 2019 | |||||
Climbing on razor blades.
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5a 5b | ★★★ Petra | 11m | Bislimska klisura | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 14th Apr 2022 | ||||
What a great place and routes!
Big thanks to all the developers - it was a pleasure to spend a day at Bislimska klisura!
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6c 6b+ | ★★ Bruno - with O | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Mon 17th Oct 2022 | |||||
Draws on. Nice techy route, not too easy to read.
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5c | ★ Veligden L1 (Velik den L1) - with S, D | Demir Kapija | ★ Good | Mon 17th Oct 2022 | |||||
Draws on, approach shoes, bit tricky like this.
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5b | ★★ Macedonia L1 - with S, D | Demir Kapija | ★ Good | Mon 17th Oct 2022 | |||||
Draws on, approach shoes.
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6b+ | ★★ Pizzi - with S, D | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Mon 17th Oct 2022 | |||||
Quite a few tick marks at the crux helped.
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5b | ★★★ Wine Lover - with s, d | 35m | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Oct 2022 | ||||
Nice footwork exercises.
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6c 6b | ★★ Fitrevolucija (Fitness Revolution) - with S, D | 40m | Demir Kapija | Sun 16th Oct 2022 | |||||
Couldn't figure it out.
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5b ~5c | ★★★ Апостолка (Apostolka) - with Katja Gavran | 15m | Ohrid | Sat 1st Apr 2023 | |||||
Run out at top.
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6b+ | ★★ Шпанска мушичка (Spanska mushicka) - with Katja Gavran | 17m | Ohrid | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | ||||
Excellent route with a very difficult Boulder problem in the middle.
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6a+ | ★ Скопско и се е можно (Skopsko i se e mozno) - with Katja Gavran | 20m | Ohrid | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | ||||
Got to about 1 meter from the anchor, then it was too difficult, even after rests and several attempts. Needed to pull up a stick clip to gain the anchor.
Not sure if I was actually on this route. Seems like maybe more routes have been added in this small area. |
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6c | ★ Sakam - with Katja Gavran | 15m | Mavrovo | ★ Good | Wed 5th Apr 2023 | ||||
Powerful move in the middle I could not do. Pulled through.
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6c+ ~7a | ★★★ Џамбо Џет - with Katja Gavran | 25m | Matka | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | ||||
Took me about 4 attempts, and the first attempt required really working out a workable sequence through the bouldery crux.
Excellent climb!
A nice piece of history jumping on the first sport route in Macedonia.
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6a+ ~6b+ | ★★★ Директорка - with Katja Gavran | 20m | Kadina | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th Apr 2023 | ||||
Excellent climb!
Most of the route feels like 6a, but the cruxy thin section through the last part of the route feels like 6b+ to me.
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6b |
Атлантида P1
- with
Katja Gavran
1
6b
| 30m | Kadina | Sun 9th Apr 2023 | |||||
Only climbed first pitch.
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6c | ★★ Karshi gipsa — 2 attempts | 20m | Demir Kapija | ★ Good | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | ||||
Starts with a tricky boulder problem and continues with easier but still nice, technical climbing to the top.
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7a ~7b | ★★★ Rock Land — 2 attempts | 50m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Classic | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | ||||
Very nice moves on relatively sound rock. A bit run-out.
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7a+ ~7b+ | ★★ Morani / Shako Zulu — 3 attempts | 50m | Demir Kapija | Average | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | ||||
Felt like climbing 2 very different routes. First half is basically 2 boulder problems and the second one is sustained climbing. Many of the bolts are hard to clip.
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6b+ ~6c | ★★ Svinsko rebro — 2 attempts | 20m | Demir Kapija | Average | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | ||||
Between 3rd and 4th bolt is a no-fall zone.
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6c | ★★ Ruski Japonec | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | |||||
Interesting climbing but the bolts are off the logical line and zig-zagging.
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7a ~7a | ★★★ Fen-Shuj | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | |||||
Nice climbing but not very obvious line. Hard to navigate during OS.
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7b+ Hard | ★★★ Drozzi — 2 attempts | 33m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | ||||
Such a cool route. Long, technical and skin-friendly. Highly recommended.
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6a | ★★ Kolibri | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | |||||
Pretty tricky 6a
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6b+ ~6c | ★★★ Kredit | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Classic | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | |||||
Very nice route.
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6b | ★★ Metal Monkey | 25m | Demir Kapija | ★ Good | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | ||||
The rock is great and the moves are interesting but ... run-out.
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6a Easy | ★★ Радар Петра L1 | 25m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Classic | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | ||||
Interesting crux
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7a+ | ★★★ Радар Петра L2 | 30m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | ||||
Amazing route! Almost perfect. Тhere are a couple of reachy moves and will be harder for shorties. Highly recommended!
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6b+ ~6c | ★★★ Ichebana | 20m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | ||||
Amazing line!
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6b ~6b+ | ★★★ Travestit | 15m | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | ||||
Interesting and tricky.
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6b+ | ★★ Bruno | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th Apr 2023 | |||||
Very nice one.
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6b Easy | ★★ Velik den L3 | 40m | Demir Kapija | ★ Good | Fri 28th Apr 2023 | ||||
Sharp.
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6a | ★★★ Prashina - with Bojan Š | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | |||||
Very cool crux.
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6a+ | ★★★ Old A1 - with Bojan Š | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | |||||
Really cool slab climb
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6a | ★★ Stairway to Cevapcici - with Bojan Š | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | |||||
Beautiful route.
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6a+ | ★★★ Don't flush toillet paper - with Bojan Š | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | |||||
Crack climbing with cool rests.
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6a+ | ★★ Patrick Edlinger L1 | 25m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd May 2023 | ||||
Cool tech line.
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7b | ★★★ Kapetan Kuka — 3 attempts | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd May 2023 | |||||
Cool bouldery route.
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7a ~7b | ★★★ Zelen traktor — 2 attempts | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd May 2023 | |||||
Nice moves. 7a+/b
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7a+ | ★★ Skapa Zena | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd May 2023 | |||||
Neverending fun 😊 There are a few sharp holds though.
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7a/a+ ~7b | ★★ Nov start | 25m | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd May 2023 | ||||
Except for a couple of pretty sharp holds, the route is really good
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7a+ ~7b | ★★ Crna 2 — 2 attempts | 15m | Demir Kapija | ★ Good | Tue 2nd May 2023 | ||||
Nice bouldery moves on sharp hand holds and polished foot holds ... :-| Easier for tall guys 7a+/b
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6c+ | ★ You better watch! | Demir Kapija | Don't Bother | Tue 2nd May 2023 | |||||
There're better routes.
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7a | ★★★ Free Love | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd May 2023 | |||||
Now I know why climbing shoes are so expensive ...
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6a+ | ★★ Night Shift - with Bojan Š | 30m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd May 2023 | ||||
Beautiful slab route
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6a | ★★★ Magla - with Bojan Š | 30m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | ||||
Very cool detail on top.
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★★★ Sveta Petka P1
— 2 attempts
1
| 80m | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Apr 2023 | |||||
6a+
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5b | ★★ Тито Партија - with Marina Iosub | 30m | Matka | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th May 2023 | ||||
Very nice and grippy. Intricate holds. Pleasure climbing.
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5b ~5b+ | ★★ Дедо Мијак - with Marina Iosub | 30m | Matka | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th May 2023 | ||||
Also nice, with many incut crimps. Very hot but still pleasurable. Felt a tad harder.
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5c | Big Mама - with Marina Iosub | 30m | Matka | Mon 8th May 2023 | |||||
Nicest of all, with numerous, varied holds and sequences. A small overhang at the end. Vacation climbing.
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6a+ | ★★ Roza | 15m | Mavrovo | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Jul 2023 | ||||
Definitely a bit easier than the other one.
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6b Hard | ★★ Ruzica | 15m | Mavrovo | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Jul 2023 | ||||
Hard, core-intensive, and some fancy footwork required. Pumpy forma warmup if you don’t know the beta.
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6c+ Easy | ★★ Ludacka Lulaska | 25m | Mavrovo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Jul 2023 | ||||
This route all comes down to the crux in the roof. Everything else is jugs. Going direct is definitely hard and the intended beta. I almost blew the onsight because the holds are not what you think they will be. It felt a little spicy for 11b rating on 27Crags but the crux is short-lived. Going right and around the roof and avoiding the crux is no harder than 10a/b. Don’t cheat yourself.
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6b Hard | ★★ Dvotaktol sarma | 15m | Mavrovo | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Aug 2023 | ||||
Very hard to read but very cool crux with some technical beef. Beginning and end are both easy.
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5c ~5c+ | ★★ Mister sauh | 15m | Mavrovo | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Aug 2023 | ||||
Not as easy as it looks. A little dirty, but good movement and a decent all-around warmup.
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6a ~6a+ | ★ Srpska rabota | 15m | Mavrovo | ★ Good | Tue 1st Aug 2023 | ||||
Really weird, fingery crux down low leads to jug-hauling. Felt about 5.10c.
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6a | ★★ Kurs za bricenje | 15m | Mavrovo | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Aug 2023 | ||||
Good moves with a balancey mantle in the middle. Wanders a bit to the right at the top, away from the bolt line. Good warmup.
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7b+ ~7c | ★★★ Srekna 40ka | 25m | Mavrovo | ★★★ Classic | Wed 2nd Aug 2023 | ||||
An absolute beef sandwich. 3 sessions, 4 tries total. Blew it at the last bolt twice. Pulling over the lip is a mütherfucker. It ain’t over till it’s over boi!
This was my third 7c (as graded by 27Crags), and I feel comfortable giving it this grade because it was quite a bit harder than the other 2 I’ve done in the last 2 months. When I came down a local guy told me the French team kids upgraded it to 7c+. FYI don’t trust the perma-draw except as a direction for cleaning. That thing is way past its prime to safely take a whipper. |
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6b Hard | ★★ Brushalter | 15m | Mavrovo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Aug 2023 | ||||
Rad line. Epic crux moves. Cool slab finish.
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5a ~5c | ★★ Viktor show | 20m | Mavrovo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Aug 2023 | ||||
So much texture at the start. Good flowy crack traverse. Easy to set up draws on the meat of the 7a+ from here as well.
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7a ~7a+ | ★★ Prikazna za sonot | 25m | Mavrovo | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Aug 2023 | ||||
A true challenge for a master of all disciplines. 3 separate and very unique crux sequences separated by no-hands rests. You need them though, because holy shit they are each demanding in their own way. Honestly it even felt hard for 7a+, and each of us had a different opinion on which crux was the most difficult.
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7b+ ~7b+ | ★★ Don Vladi — 2 attempts | Bislimska klisura | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Oct 2023 | |||||
се скрши клучно фаќалиште на почеток, сега е потешка за 1 оцена
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7a+ | ★★★ Letecka Dijana | 14m | Demir Kapija | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Oct 2022 | ||||
Amazing and bouldery line. Thanks to Itchy for the beta! It feels like 7a+ with a dynamic start to the left.
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6a+ ~6a | ★★★ Зоки поки | 18m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Dec 2022 | ||||
Perfect line for warm up and a great challenge for newer climbers. The crux is just at the beginning, at the first couple of moves.
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6c | Way home Right — 2 attempts | Demir Kapija | Sun 8th Jan 2023 | ||||||
Very nice and long line. A bit tricky in the crux. I didn't read it properly on first go and got pumped. Sent it on second go
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7a | ★★★ Убо е внатре | 17m | Prilep | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 30th Oct 2022 | ||||
An amazing line which was set by Goran Kuzmanovski, back in May 2019, as per the info, I was able to retrieve for this route. Highly recommended!
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6b ~6a+ | ★★★ Кокиче - with itchychy | 20m | Kadina | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 2nd Dec 2023 | ||||
Super fine. Keep the the left side of the upper face to enjoy easier terrain, and right to enjoy a tiny bit more challenging. Both are nice and the line deserves to be given a chance. Fit for warm up. Bolting in the upper part feels so nice, with slightly longer climbing between bolts and that feels awesome.
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6c+ | ★ Оплачка (oplachka) | 17m | Ohrid | ★ Good | Wed 27th Dec 2023 | ||||
A bit hard
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6a ~6b | Мони нони | 20m | Bislimska klisura | Average | Sat 27th Jan 2024 | ||||
I personally think it is a bit easier, but since I didn't manage to climb the most efficient way, on my onsight climb, it felt like 6b.
I have noticed some traces from chalk at the crux, on the far left side, which is most probably easier, still I believe it is more ethical and proper to climb it straight, where the bolt line is. |
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7b ~7b+ | ★★★ Jelat | 25m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Classic | Thu 15th Feb 2024 | ||||
Hard if you’re not used to crimping 25m straight forward. Really good one!
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6c | ★★ Ruski Japonec - with Malin | Demir Kapija | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | ||||||
Nur die erste 6a+ seillänge
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7a+ | ★★ Crna 2 - with Malin | 15m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | ||||
Unten Hauptschwierigkeit und wacklige clips. Alle Wege im Sektor extrem leistig, kurz und boulderig
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7a+ | ★★★ VDD — 2 attempts - with Malin | 17m | Demir Kapija | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | ||||
Unten eher leicht, dafür dann Boulder an 5ter Exe und kein Griff mit chalk, deshalb recht kompliziert
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