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Rørvika

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

The Ice

Late December to February waterfalls and pillars occasionally form on north facing aspects above the 816 & E10.

The Ice
WI4 Ukjent 1

The waterfall line that forms on the cliffs above the 816 midway between Rørvika beach carpark and the Rørvika point pullout. P1) The initial pillar leads to a lower angle slope with a tree belay P2) Traverse left to the next pillar. Belay/rapp from trees

Rørvikvannet Ice

Depending on conditions, various ice/mixed lines in the WI1-WI4 range form above Rørvikvannet. Access by parking at Glomtind veien, walking across the lake.

GPX file and some photos here: https://www.strava.com/activities/4640944797

The Rock and Roll Ridge

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

The Rock and Roll Ridge
3 The Rock and Roll Ridge

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

4+ Nordfjellet Traverse

It´s possible to continue from rock and roll ridge up to Nordfjellet. Routefinding & loose rock are the real crux so a short rope plus gear to rig rappels is advisable.

From the summit, continue down the ridge towards the glomtinden hiking trail.

Upper Wall

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

Upper Wall
5 Losing my religion

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

6- Happy Campers

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

6- Moody Blue

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

5 Queen of Rock 'n' Roll

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

7- King of Rock 'n' Roll

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

6- Tom Jones

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

6a Automatic for the People

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

6 BB King was Wrong (the Thrill isn't Gone)

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

6 Fugledansen

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

5+ Venus Passagen

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

5+ `Ny 2021 ruta´

Starts just right of the established lines.

Lower Wall

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

Lower Wall
The crack systems here differ from classic Lofoten rock. Expect engaging and technical face climbing

The crack systems here differ from classic Lofoten rock. Expect engaging and technical face climbing on good quality rock.

Rappel 40m via double bolt anchor.

Note: It is not possible to scramble to the upper wall.

5+ Jerry Lee

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

7- Sticky Fingers

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

7 Elvis

There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.

A nice introduction to Lofoten jamming at entry level grades.Scramble along the base from the rout

A nice introduction to Lofoten jamming at entry level grades.

Scramble along the base from the routes on the left to access these lines.

Descent notes:

Option 1: Pick a suitable tree near BOB and rappel to the base of the cliff (30m). From here traverse across to the lower wall left then down the boulder field towards the E10

Option 2: From the top of the routes scramble up another 15/20m before heading East & down towards the grassy slopes.

6 Hellstinky state of mind

This finger crack in the LF corner is attractive but somewhat difficult

6- Hun hater meg, det liker jeg!

Head up the finger crack on the arete then jam & stem in the dihedral to the summit

5 Jeg håper Scottys hus brenner ned

From the arete, follow the left trending crack until it ends. Traverse around the arete into excellent jamming in a corner then follow easy angled slab to the summit.

5 Røyskatten

Trend left from Høstdrømmen towards the RF corner system. When this end following a thinner crack system out right to rejoin Høstdrømmen.

5+ Høstdrømmen

The first route on the cliff. Climb the flake then traverse right over a bulge. Nice jamming continues from here to the summit.

4 BOB

The low angled left trending finger crack. When the initial crack ends trend right then straight up to a tree belay

Showing all 31 nodes.

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