Ascents in Kneopatra having Beta

#ecopoint

Amazing route. Super flowy, crimpy, board style climbing.

Great and pumpy route! A lot of fun sections. Four attempts in total.

One go with many rests. Did not get to the top - too pumped.

Third go, with good beta from others at the crag.

Up to the roof

Third go. Super nice but very pumpy.

Great climb, and very useful with a fingerlock or two. Did it on today's third go, fourth in total.

7c 2nd go

Tricky roof.

Nice warm up. Long varied pitch.

Warm up day 1

Väldigt fin förlängning av en toppenled. Sprickan var blöt, så även stor del av juggarna av denna... Pumpen tog mig nästan. Andra på förlängningen.

Några systemväggssekvenser som passade mig. Gick oväntat snabbt, fick onsight-grymta mig igenom sista 3-4 klippen. Antagligen rätt soft. Undvek alla lösa juggar.

Provade ett par dagar tidigare, fick inte till taket. Med beta (och torra grepp) gick det direkt. Väldigt rolig! Dock borde ankaret på första pitchen sitta 15 meter högre upp, innan kruxet på förlängningen. Provade den, men kom inte hela vägen pga blöta grepp.

Blötaste led jag nånsin klättrat. Äventyr när det är som bäst. Skön heldag i duggregn.

Perfekt blandning av vanlig klättring och flatanger-bröt. Helt i klass med alla andra superleder på denna klippa.

"Jag ska bara dogga och jobba på kruxet"

Bouldery moves through the roof after double hand jam rest at the belay. Huge fight with cold hands, fell off on almost every move from the start of the crack on Kykkeli.

Not the best route on the wall. Off-balance, humid holds and a shitload of chalk on all holds. Cold hands, fell off almost every hold from the start of the crack on Kykkeli.

¡❤️Close to perfection❤️! Fantastic route with distinct crux and fun pumpy finish. The gneiss at Flatanger has the most amazing features rock can offer. In need of re-bolting: bolts are in the wrong spot/hard to clip, have rusted and have been bent like the one at the crux because the hanger is loose (rock below has worn). Better rebolt with TITANIUM glue-inns.

Climbing it with wet holds was hard! #2go

Not so good, probably easy

Fantastic climbing after the split from the lefthand route. An almost perfect route with fun big moves on good holds with somewhat smaller holds for the feet. Indoor-style climbing on perfect gneiss. Worth a detour on its own.

Big moves on good holds.

Kul att få riva av den här "typ" onsight, efter att ha onsightat Syvsover förra året. Sätter den som en flash som kompromiss. Väldigt fin, om en lite avig..

Kanonkul spricka med fina fingerlås. Provade en gång förra året, då var den blöt... nu gick den på andra (trots att jag var sjuk!).

Had one toprope attempt on this six years ago, but didn't remember a thing, so I will call this an onsight. Fantastic and pumpy route!

Some reachy moves at beginning but the crack climbing for the last 10 meters makes it good again

A Dream of a climb, of the crack is dry...

This roue is amazing! Very bouldery and technical boulder on a sloper ramp in the beginning. Afterwards big moves on big holds. Took me quite a lot of work for 8a, because the crux sequences is a bit reachy which made it very demanding for me...