Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||
8+/9- | Kjerna
An outrageous, overhanging open project. The first pitch is bolted and has not been freed, the 2nd pitch goes on gear but has only been top roped clean. Best approached from the West by parking just before Skjellesvikskaret. A faint climbers trail trends right across the base & up to the lake where open grassy slopes lead to the top of Kjerna. Rapp down the SE cliffs of the ridge (2 rapps, 1 bolt on each station) Set: Erland Volden & Hein Volden, 1990 | 2 | Ofoten | ||
8+/9- | Sigve projekt
A closed project | Lofoten | |||
8+/9- | Jårls Projekt (Lukket)
A closed project | Lofoten | |||
9- | ★★★ Minnerisset
This unmissable overhanging roof crack is the first route you´ll see when driving into Henningsvær. Put up & named by Robert Caspersen after his brothers (Pål Espen) tragic death on Presten. It´s one of the hardest lines on the islands but was on-sighted by Pete Whittaker in 2019. If you´re not a Pete Whittaker type, with easy access & good protection, it´s probably your best candidate for an 8a trad project. Consider quadruple cams from 0.5 to 1". As of 2021, fixed equipment has been installed before the mantle, presumably to facilitate working/cleaning the route. The mantle is no gimmie & is part of the original line. Some images here: View this post on Instagram FA: Robert Caspersen, 2002 | 28m | Lofoten | ||
9- | ★★★ Stormpillaren
1
6-
50m
2
7-
40m
3
7
25m
4
6-
30m
5
6+
40m
6
7
30m
7
6+
60m
8
6-
45m
9
7
55m
10
7+
55m
11
7
50m
12
9-
55m
13
8-
35m
14
6+
50m
15
6+
45m
16
6+
30m
17
8-
55m
18
6
60m
Tackles the full height of the slabs and upper pillar. A big step up from Freya in terms of exposure and difficulty. Reportedly committing; You need to be in solid 8a shape for pitch 12 . Freed in 2017. FFA: Martin Skaar Oslund & Håkon Wegge, 29 Jul 2017 | 810m, 18 | Lofoten | ||
9- PROT:R - X | ★★★ The Corner Kick
1
6-
45m
2
8+
40m
3
8+
20m
4
8+
30m
5
9-
40m
6
9-
30m
7
6+ R - X
25m
8
6-
60m
9
6+
60m
10
6
30m
The King Line of the great pillar. With big exposure & stacked pitches, it´s a worthy destination route for those strong enough. To descend, continue up the final pitches (9.5-16) of Storpillaren Freed in 2015. There´s a Topo & description on Planet Mountain FFA: Martin Skaar Oslund, 2015 | 380m, 10 | Lofoten | ||
9- PROT:R | ★★★ Lady of the lake
1
5+
50m
2
6+
25m
3
7+
30m
4
8-
40m
5
7
50m
6
9- R
55m
FA: Malin Holmberg, 2011 | 250m, 6 | Lofoten | ||
FR:8a | Warspite
Mixed route with a cam needed for the upper section FA: Dagfinn Eilertsen & Robert Caspersen, 2000 | Ofoten | |||
Sport | |||||
FR:8a | ★★ Kristenmannsblod
Shared anchor with Sauen. FA: Håkon Wegge, 2019 | 20m | Ofoten | ||
9- | Horn og hale | Salten | |||
9- | ★ Fettoter’n | Salten | |||
9- | To på tiern | Salten | |||
FR:8a+ | Kruttårnet ext | Salten | |||
9- | Kruttårnet | Salten | |||
9- | Brant | Salten | |||
{FR} 8a | ★★ Svart magi
FA: Sindre Sæther, 2005 | Lofoten | |||
{FR} 8a+ | ★★★ Attaca con tufa
The extension to Full belastning. FA: Eirik Birkelund Olsen, 2007 | Lofoten | |||
{FR} 8a+ | ★★★ Joker nord
The caves king (& hardest) line FA: Sindre Sæther, 2005 | Lofoten | |||
{FR} 8a | ★★★ Aetat
FA: Knut Storvik, 2005 | Lofoten | |||
FR:8a+ | ★★ Uvørn sjænking
FA: Knut Storvik, 2005 | 25m | Lofoten | ||
{FR} 8a | ★★★ Hiakk | 20m | Lofoten | ||
{FR} 8a | Projekt 2
The hard open projekt directly through the roof. Potentially 8a? | 20m | Lofoten | ||
FR:8a+ | We aint got our butter | 7 | Lofoten | ||
FR:8a+ | Think locally, fuck globally
The open project extension to Think locally. Set: Die Schlingel, 2019 | 43m, 24 | Lofoten | ||
FR:8a | ★★ Noldus | Salten | |||
Boulder | |||||
FB:7B | ★★ Cyclops | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★ Fisherman's Girlfriend | Salten | |||
FB:7B | Nameless Rail | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Mystery Box
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★ Den Fjerde dagen | Salten | |||
FB:7B | Projekt
The arete | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | ★ Steepstone | Salten | |||
FB:7B+ | ★★ Morkel | Salten | |||
FB:7B+ | Rainbow Roof | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★★ Snusleppa | Salten | |||
FB:7B | ★ Dekka Bord | Salten | |||
FB:7B | Nameless #13 | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★ Sylvester | Salten | |||
FB:7B | ★★ Presten roof original | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Diesel Power | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | ★★ Pip | Salten | |||
FB:7B | ★ Panodraama (sit) | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Jake´s arete | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Ekorn i flokk | Salten | |||
FB:7B | Unknown #72 | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Ozzy´s wall | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | ★★ Blomsterbarn | Salten | |||
FB:7B+ | ★★ Moon Block
FA: Ben Moon, 2005 | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | Rabarbrapappa | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★ Ford Fokus sitt | Salten | |||
FB:7B | Roadkill sds | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Salte peanøtter
| Ofoten | |||
FB:7B | Hoggeren | Salten | |||
FB:7B | Lofoten Tourist
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★ Månens siste skrik | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | ★ Nr.6
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | ★★ Nr. 13
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Road to Perdition
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★★ Traversen
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Rabbadab low sds
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | Starter | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Projekt 1
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Turnustjeneste | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Bertas smurte lefser
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Projekt 3
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | ★★★ Slartibartfast | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★ Second wind
FA: Nalle Hukkataival | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★ Double Trouble | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Iron Cross | Lofoten | |||
{FB} 7B | ★★ Gim-tonic | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★★ Ellinors vise | Lofoten | |||
{FB} 7B | ★★★ El Integral
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★★ Abu Garcia | Lofoten | |||
{FB} 7B+ | ★ Nameless problem #14
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Venstreveggen | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | The Arete
FA: Ben Moon, 2004 | Lofoten | |||
{FB} 7B | Nameless problem #15
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★ Biceps | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★★ Trehoggern | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | Sleng dem
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★ Nameless 2 | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Ahab | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Frejs fräcka flytt | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★★ 3,2,1 go! | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | ★★ Kaptein Supertruse | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★★ Indian summer
Video beta: https://youtu.be/G5WrLi192Ow?t=77 | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★ Unused route | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | Where's My Feet?
Start from the underclings | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | ★★ Fattigmannssommer | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | ★★ Cheater on the wall | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | Old Man and the Sea
Video beta: https://youtu.be/HrBsZ7l7yPM?t=50 | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Slab the bass | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Er dere alene?
| Lofoten | |||
FB:7B+ | Espen's | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | D´Artagnan | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Amputee | Salten | |||
FB:7B+ | Vrål | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Endless possibilities | Lofoten | |||
FB:7B | Nosferatu | Salten | |||
FB:7B+ | Lyn
Image here: https://i.redd.it/lsqw8741lj431.jpg Video beta here: https://youtu.be/egVZYH5lRvY?t=80 | Lofoten |