Routes in Northern Norway for selected grade

A closed project

A closed project

Mixed route with a cam needed for the upper section

An outrageous, overhanging open project. The first pitch is bolted and has not been freed, the 2nd pitch goes on gear but has only been top roped clean.

Best approached from the West by parking just before Skjellesvikskaret. A faint climbers trail trends right across the base & up to the lake where open grassy slopes lead to the top of Kjerna. Rapp down the SE cliffs of the ridge (2 rapps, 1 bolt on each station)

This unmissable overhanging roof crack is the first route you´ll see when driving into Henningsvær. Put up & named by Robert Caspersen after his brothers (Pål Espen) tragic death on Presten.

It´s one of the hardest lines on the islands but was on-sighted by Pete Whittaker in 2019.

If you´re not a Pete Whittaker type, with easy access & good protection, it´s probably your best candidate for an 8a trad project. Consider quadruple cams from 0.5 to 1".

As of 2021, fixed equipment has been installed before the mantle, presumably to facilitate working/cleaning the route. The mantle is no gimmie & is part of the original line.

Some images here:

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Tackles the full height of the slabs and upper pillar. A big step up from Freya in terms of exposure and difficulty. Reportedly committing; You need to be in solid 8a shape for pitch 12 .

Freed in 2017.

The King Line of the great pillar. With big exposure & stacked pitches, it´s a worthy destination route for those strong enough.

To descend, continue up the final pitches (9.5-16) of Storpillaren

Freed in 2015. There´s a Topo & description on Planet Mountain

Route description here

There is a short on this route available

Route description and topo here

Route description available here

Northern Norway´s first 8a

Sustained climbing on unlikely, but superb featured granite.

Beta

Shared anchor with Sauen.

The hard open projekt directly through the roof. Potentially 8a?

The extension to Full belastning.

The caves king (& hardest) line

The open project extension to Think locally.

One of, if not the best, lines on the islands. Some beta options-

here

here

Image here: https://i.redd.it/lsqw8741lj431.jpg

Video beta here: https://youtu.be/egVZYH5lRvY?t=80

The arete

Start on crimps, go out left. Finish in Mandelakanten

Sit start all the way back in the cave.

Video beta: https://youtu.be/G5WrLi192Ow?t=77

Start from the underclings

Video beta: https://youtu.be/HrBsZ7l7yPM?t=50