Routes in Melanesia for selected grade

Swim into main area, look left for some large lobes leading to ledge. From the ledge move left with a right arm crossover bicep-y move with high feet then reach far left to a break in the rock and mount the top. Pleasant jump from the top!

Start directly across from the entry in the chimney. ~4m up right hand on small flat ledge on left side of chimney and then right high foot and swing out on to face.

Possibility of a dyno to a natural 'brick' stuck in the rock but my tour group had to leave before I could try.

Named after a tourist's biological alarm clock...

Arete route between "Poseidon" and "Coquillage et Crustaces"

The 9th clip is a midway double-bolt anchor, but it is better to climb this as a long single pitch.

An awesome looking splitter crack thats just a bit smaller than fist size except for the end.

The tricker start to 'Gateway to Pang' via a single bolt to the right. Both routes merge at the second bolt.

Left route on the slab. Stay direct (slightly right of the last bolt) to earn the grade, or McDougall out left to 'Gateway to Pang' for grade 15 tick.

Fun little route right of SoE

Start at the 'Decadence Wall' rap station, but instead of rapping, climb upwards instead.

3 metres before rap chains, below a thin crack, up passed the party ledge to a reach finish.

An Easy Trad route that starts up a stemming corner onto a ledge. Then up the cave features and cracks to the top. Has one additional bolt at the first ledge for shorties that cant reach the crack for pro. This is optional only.

Plenty of adventure in this one. Right side of prow.

Up the ‘Century of Change’ flake for a couple of bolts then move left and up the pumpy wall on big holds.

Start at the black streak / obvious corner holds. Head upwards and slightly left through crux.

The R hand line of bolts about 20m up the rungs/gully

2m R of H. Up the tricky face start onto the ledge. Straight up the sandy white streak above. 6FHs, DRBB.

The easier variant of the Unstolen, you get the roof without the hard start. 5m R of U below the large under cling flakes. Up to these, then diagonally L and up the L edge of this wall. Up the ramp R to join U after the steep initial wall. Over the roof and up the steep jugs. 12RBs, DRBB.

A bit of old school and new, watch for loose rock on this one. Start below the large hanging flake. Up to and behind this and up the steep slopey ramp to the R corner of the roof. Through this and up the steep head wall on the massive jugs.

Classic and continually engaging all the way to the top. Follow the hangers – not ringbolts. The 1st route on the wall. 3m R of TM below a thin crack and the r bottom end of a ramp/flake. Up to the flake, L up the ramp, step L and up the steeper ramp. At the top of this step out L onto the face and direct up this to the top on some great hidden holds. Beware the top wall has spat a few off that hung around a little too long looking for a better hold. Follow the 11FHs, DRBB.

Steep short thugging. Start as for TA, up over the bulge past 4FHs and straight up the face and mantle the top to the lower off. 7 bolts, DRBB.

Line up face in the nook 8m to the right of TF. Technical first half with an exciting couple of moves through the bulge. There are some hollow sounding blocks at the halfway ledge, but a half hour session with a 1m crowbar couldn’t get them off so they shouldn’t go anywhere. Still wise to treat with caution.

Route equipped with fixed hangers sprouting a cool looking tooth feature. The extension above the anchor is an open project.

Line of hangers that trends diagonally right to DBB on face. Wise to stick clip first bolt.

Shares the first 3 Bolts with Two Hundred Mill then splits off diagonally left up the huge juggy feature to a steep finish. Great fun.