Nodes in Padina lui Călineţ

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Padina lui Călineţ
4A Hornul Adânc - firul principal
2A Hornul Adânc - firul secundar
7 A0 Creasta Şoimilor
5 Creasta Frumoasă

One of the easier ridge routes in Piatra Craiului. All natural belays (rock spikes/bushes). Mostly protected on mobiles and slings, although some of the harder moves take pitons.

Pitch 1 starts with an initial ~15m chimney, protected with 3 pitons - 1 on the right, near the start, 1 on the left (better ignored to minimize drag) and 1 again on the right, near the chimney exit (crux of the pitch). Continue on the ridge and sling a rock for a belay.

Pitch 2 continues on the ridge up to a 10m crack, protected with pitons (it takes mobiles as well) - this is the crux of the route. After it, traverse slightly to the left and follow another crack, this time with no fixed protection, to a patch of dwarf pines and some belay rocks after it.

Pitch 3 is an easy ridge traverse that at some point enters a gully. 70m long but with multiple intermediary belay opportunities if you want to avoid simulclimbing.

Pitch 4 is whatever was left out of pitch 3 and a final, relatively simple chimney (partially protected with pitons). Belay to the left of the chimney exit.

6 A0 Creasta Prieteniei
4A Muchia Arinului
Traseul lui Cătălin Berbec
6+ - 8+ A0 Fisurile Centrale
7- Creasta Coarnele Caprei

4A Romanian 7- UIAA (6- A0)

A not too airy but quite fun to climb ridge. Some belays and cruxes have had bolts added, and the old pitons are still there for aid, but having at least a minimal rack and some extra 120cm slings (and at least 1 240cm) is recommended. There are many opportunities to set a belay on natural features (the pre-rebolting route had all natural belays) so the number of pitches will vary - the description below is only one possible way of doing the route.

Approach: through Padina lui Calinet past Saritoarea Mare, then take the secondary for a few dozens of meters (before the first obstacle)

P1: Starts with a 15m runout on broken slab, doable either on the left (5+, chossy) or right (4+, grassy but less friable, some nut placements available on the ridge next to you). Then cross right on a protected ledge, under the eponymous "goat horns" formations, and back left on a 4+ chimney that leads to a belay boulder. 40m, 4+/5+ UIAA

P2: Head up a grassy bit that leads to a 7- face (aidable down to 5 A0) followed by a 6+ slightly overhanging dihedral (same). Then head up an easy chimney to a ledge. Belay off a bolt + small tree. 25m, 7- UIAA (6- A0)

P3: Continue on the ledge to the right until reaching a slightly overhanging 7- face (aidable), then on easy terrain up to a boulder belay. Uniting this with the previous pitch will lead to quite a bit of rope drag on the overhang. 25m, 7- UIAA (5 A0)

P4: Head on easy runout to the base of the wall visible above you. The 5- crux is protected by a bolt, and the pitch can be broken in two by belaying on natural features (choose your own). Final belay is off a large boulder, but there are opportunities for medium or large cams as well 60m, 5- UIAA

P5: The new bolted version to the right (7 UIAA) misses the best photo opportunity of the route, so head left instead, climb a flake separated from the wall (5+, protectable by slinging a chockstone) until gaining an airy 5+ secondary ridge protected by the occasional piton. Rejoin the main ridge (beware of a very loose microwave-sized boulder, we couldn't get rid of it since there were people in the gullies below) and belay off a boulder. 30m, 5+ UIAA

P6: Traverse to the right on grassy ledges, then climb a very easy and mostly unprotected chimney (3 UIAA) until regaining the main ridge. Belay off a boulder (very comfortable belay "armchair" for the next pitch) if you have 60m ropes and a 240cm sling, or continue for 10m through the bushes to a bolted belay at the base of a face if any of these is missing. 30-40m, 3 UIAA

P7: Do the 10m of bushwhacking if you haven't already done them, then stat on a well-protected 6 UIAA face, avoiding the overhang at the end on the right, continue on the ridge to a second bit of compact rock (6/6+, technical slab, on pitons) and finish with a 5+ friable runout to the final belay (on the left of a rock ridge). 50-60m, 6/6+ UIAA

Retreat: 1 20m rappel to a grass slope, then head left on Braul de Sus (in good visibility, easy to follow - it's the great faultline crossing Muchia Timbalului Mare) up to the gully before Acul de la Amvon (Valcelul cu Smardar). Descend that down to the arch of Valcelul cu Fereastra, cross into it, downclimb or rappel (5 rappels, first and last off trees marked with cord, middle 3 off bolts - the bolts aren't marked with cord but the old pitons are, so pay attention)

5A Fisura Verde
4A Hornul Piticului
6+/7- Creasta Piticului
4B Peretele vestic din Călineţ
3A Muchia Întreruptă
4A Traseul Hornul Căpriţei
3A Creasta Friată
3A Muchia Scurtă
4B Muchia Suspendată

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