Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 15th Jun 2024 - Leaota Massif | |||||||
Mănăstirea Cetățuia Colţul Bufniţei | |||||||
7 ~7+ |
★★ Nasul Bufniţei
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 8th Jun 2024 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Valea Ciorânga Peretele Ciorânga Mare | |||||||
4 |
★★★ Lespezile Lirei P1
![]()
1
4
Bondar version | ||||||
Retreat off p2, runout was wetter than we would have liked
|
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Sat 8th Jun 2024 - Coștila | |||||||
Ţancul Ascuţit | |||||||
5 |
★★★ Fisura Întreruptă P1
![]() | 60m | |||||
Sun 5th May 2024 - Coștila | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B |
Valea Coştilei
![]() | Crap | |||||
Retreated at the canyon - a bit too much rockfall going on around me to risk it in the Costila particle accelerator.
|
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Pietrele lui Solomon | |||||||
Faleza Junilor | |||||||
6b+ Hard |
★★★ Bacalaureat
![]() | ||||||
Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Sinaia | |||||||
Stânca Sf. Ana Brâna | |||||||
7 ~7+ |
Muk
![]() | 20m | Average | ||||
Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Peretele Animalelor | |||||||
6 |
★★ Muchia Iepuraşului
![]() | 220m | |||||
Thu 11th Apr 2024 - Caraiman | |||||||
Valea Spumoasă Pintenul Cascadei Inspumate | |||||||
Meșterică
![]() | 100m, 16 | ||||||
Probably a fun easy slab route when not covered in crap
|
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Thu 11th Apr 2024 - Caraiman | |||||||
Valea Spumoasă Colțul Berbecului | |||||||
6+ A0 |
Fisura Berbecului
![]()
2
6+
30
lead by
Andrei Badea
Took flight with a rock the size of my head... same hold my 3kg lighter partner had put his whole weight on, on lead above crap pitons. No bueno. Spent some time working the moves in the overhang, felt quite proud to eventually manage it without aid. Couldn't do stuff like that last year. The lovely dihedral people mention is... fine I guess, but also short and bushy. Said fuck it and went home | 85m | Crap | ||||
A family of worms crawls out of a pile of shit. Baby worm asks: mommy could we climb in Montserrat? Yes son, we could. Mommy but could we climb in Meteora? Of course, my dear. Mommy mommy, but could we even climb in Costila? Certainly, nothing's stopping us. Mommy, then why are we climbing in fucking Caraiman?
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Pietrele lui Solomon | |||||||
Faleza Junilor | |||||||
6a+ |
★★ Clasa zero barat
![]() | ||||||
Toproped a plumb line containing bits of maybe 3 routes. Really cool overhanging start on alveoles. Footslip on a bit of the 5a I had done fine in boots earlier lol
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5a |
★ Mami vreau la grădiniță
![]() | ||||||
In boots, for practice. It's really hard to unclip the crux bolt when seconding
|
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Faţa Hornurilor | |||||||
6 |
★★ Muchia Panseluţei
![]()
3
5+
35m
lead by
Ruxandra V
Stopped a bit in the crux - far less scary than it was the first time though. Far less rope drag on halfropes too
5
4+
62m
lead by
Ruxandra V
New belay station right after the old tree. Rapping down the line can be done in 4 raps on 60m halfropes (unite pitches 2 and 3). Next time I'm doing it with my ropes on me tho, they got tangled in all possible bushes | 220m, 13 | |||||
Mon 4th Mar 2024 - Făgărașului Massif | |||||||
Negoiu - Lespezi - Călţun Peretele Nordic Lespezi-Călţun | |||||||
2A |
Hornul Călţunului
![]() | ||||||
Solo,up to the major obstacle of the gully - so I really just did a bunch of snow frontpointing, and an attempt to bypass on the right ridge that fizzled out on account of 2m of shit snow I would have liked a belay on. Had a good rock for that and everything
Did a nameless gully on the aiguille across the Portita Caltunului as a consolation prize. Classical Romanian 1A, up on snow, then switch to some grassy ledges with a couple chimney moves to cross through a narrow saddle on another grassy ledge (1 weird but very short traverse where the hold I'd have needed to reverse broke in my hand, and this above 30m of void) and then a walk up to the refuge. All in all, a very enjoyable morning. |
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Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Făgărașului Massif | |||||||
Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) Paltinu Mixed Crags Central | |||||||
M8 |
★ Te Dai ori nu te Dai
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Putting up the draws and breaking off all the rotten ice from the curtain. Strenuous, 30min job, but managed to clear all the bad ice and was left with a hefty ice overhang, ready to be climbed.
|
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Thu 22nd Feb 2024 - Făgărașului Massif | |||||||
Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) Paltinu Mixed Crags Central | |||||||
M10 |
Ice Lure
![]() | 30m, 15 | |||||
Climbed the first 10m, which follow a narrow icicle/flow, used only screws and rapped from a V-thread. — with Mara Miron
|
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M10 |
Ice Lure
![]() | 30m, 15 | |||||
Climbed the first 10m, which follow a narrow icicle/flow, used only screws and rapped from a V-thread. — with Mara Miron
|
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M10 |
Ice Lure
![]() | 30m, 15 | |||||
Climbed the first 10m, which follow a narrow icicle/flow, used only screws and rapped from a V-thread.
|
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M10 |
Ice Lure
![]() | 30m, 15 | |||||
Climbed the first 10m, which follow a narrow icicle/flow, used only screws and rapped from a V-thread.
|
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M6 Hard |
Access Direct
![]() | 25m, 8 | Crap | ||||
Cleaning the route.
|
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M6 Hard |
Access Direct
![]() | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Friable and dirty, cleaned the first few meters. Redpointed in two bits, some holds (drilled ones) are broken, making the lower half almost impossible to link. Placed screws on lead and set up a V-thread with quicklink at the top for others to use.
|
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B |
Brâul de Sus
![]() | ||||||
Hornul N portion. Retreated pretty quickly due to shit snow
|
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Thu 28th Dec 2023 - Coștila | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B |
★★★ Hornul Coamei
![]() | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Really cool conditions (mostly dry in the lower side, hard ice patches) but after the approach from hell we were out of time. Rapped down from below the Furci icefall (not yet formed).
|
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Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Făgărașului Massif | |||||||
Sâmbăta Colţul Bălăceni | |||||||
M3 |
★★ Muchia Nord-Vestică
![]()
1
M3
lead by
Andrei Badea
Ridge to the right of the normal gully, so we wouldn't bother the other team on the route
2
M2
lead by
Andrei Badea
Some M2 and more M1, we simulled maybe 10m
3
M2
lead by
Andrei Badea
Rejoined the official line. Back to the obelisk belay we retreated from last time. L'aventure commence.
4
M2
lead by
Andrei Badea
Spiciest pitch to lead. It's an easy but v exposed ridge, covered in unconsolidated snow. Can't see holds or pitons. With a lot of patience, housecleaning, commitment and a smidge of luck (hmm what is this great hold my right tool is on? Oooh a piton) it went well. Really fucking spectacular. Belay kinda leaning in our harnesses in one piton since we weren't sure we'd have anything better in reach
5
M3
lead by
Andrei Badea
Committing bit of ridge right after that single-piton belay, flake on the left looks like a good mobile placement but it'll fly. Easy, exposed ridge after
6
lead by
Andrei Badea
From the dihedral belay, we did the traverse versiron rather than the direct (one nut in the middle of the traverse, no pro otherwise. Found the crux quite spicy, it's a 5 in summer but small weird holds | 320m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Morarul | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
M4 |
Râpa Zăpezii - Râpa Mare
![]() | Crap | |||||
Perfect consolidated snow in the lower part. The obstacle below the intersection with Rapa mica was recently affected by rockfall. The lower slab is full of crap, the upper right exit is blocked, and the upper left has you go through a new and poorly consolidated chimney and exit thru a sharp-edged window for a committing, exposed move on friable crap.
Between this and the hopefully-not-tuberculosis cold from hell, I had bad vibes about continuing so we rapped off (we added a second piton to the rap station over the second obstacle - crack could be deeper, but it should do) |
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Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului New Dry-tooling Crag | |||||||
M6 |
★ 4
![]() | 12m | |||||
Really glad Alex told me to try it, I'd never have guessed I can get my ass up a m6, even with rests
|
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M5 |
3
![]() | 10m | |||||
Much less of a struggle than last year
|
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului Sector Creasta Generalului | |||||||
M5 |
★★★ Traseul 7
![]() | 12m | |||||
Went slightly to the right of the bolt line, on the crack rather than the arete
|
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului Sector Pintenul Magarului | |||||||
M4 |
Bondarul
![]() | 20m | |||||
Fluturele
![]() | 20m | ||||||
Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Făgărașului Massif | |||||||
Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) Bâlea | |||||||
M3 |
Piscul Bâlii
![]() | ||||||
Alpine rope techniques class. We retreated off the penultimate peak since we wanted to catch the cabin down and we had moved quite slowly, since, again, classtime
|
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Coștila | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B |
Valea Seacă a Coştilei
![]() | ||||||
Initial plan was Hornul Ascuns, and this as approach. God, but it was less weedy 2 years ago
|
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Coștila | |||||||
Peretele Văii Albe | |||||||
5 ~Ac |
★★ Lespezi
![]()
1
3
lead by
andrei badea
2
5
lead by
andrei badea
3
1
lead by
andrei badea
4
4
lead by
andrei badea
5
5
lead by
andrei badea
| ||||||
Partner not feeling well. From the Great Traverse, one can retreat down to the Sarutul Pamantului belay on Terenul de Fotbal in 1 55m rap, and then down the line of the route.
At least I know the way now. |
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Pietrele lui Solomon | |||||||
Faleza Junilor | |||||||
6a+ ~6a |
★★ Examenul de capacitate
![]() | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Got scared of the space between bolts on the layback (do I hit a ledge?). Wasted a lot of armpower, ended up falling with my feet 1m above the bolt. Turns out I do not hit a ledge. However, at this point I had run out of forearms.
|
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Sinaia | |||||||
Stânca Sf. Ana Brâna | |||||||
7 ~7+ |
Muk
![]() | 20m | |||||
Starting section is really difficult, understood from other climbers there were parts of the rock broken making the first 5 moves harder. There is also a risk of hitting a tree behind you when you fall.
Approaching for the right when you have a top rope makes it on par with the difficulty level.
|
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Caraiman | |||||||
Piranha | |||||||
5c |
★★★ Omida
![]() | ||||||
Pebble practice. This sort of climbing is a Sudoku puzzle. Find the best handhold for the hand you wanna move. Experiment with it until you get the best angle. Let that dictate your core and opposite leg position, step on whatever's best near that. Move the other leg freely to something that'll give you a good wide stance, get up on your feet, restart the process for the alternate hand. Like a spraywall full of small holds
|
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5a |
Piranha
![]() | 15m | |||||
Bit of a fear moment, wasted some energy on the traverse
|
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Coștila | |||||||
Ţancul Ascuţit | |||||||
7- A0 |
★★ Traseul Căţărătorului
![]() | 95m | |||||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Coștila | |||||||
Ţancul Mic | |||||||
6+ A1 |
★★★ Hermann Buhl
![]()
1
6+ A0
40m
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
Split it in two pitches at the intermediate belay since they're not easy pitches anyway. Aided the whole of 1.1, 2 went mostly free.
2
6 A0
25m
Cool exit over the ridge, very bouldery, airy move I couldn't free the first time tho
3
5 A0
40m
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
Bushy slog leads to passing a slab blocking the ledge. That'd have been interesting had I not had heatstroke already Took a really annoying pendulum out of the belay
4
6 A1
40m
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
At this point I just wanted everything to be over. Took a pendulum, really flailed passing the crux even on 2 aiders, not my best day. | 150m, 20 | |||||
Note to self, don't climb this in the heat again. Cool route, very varied, got heatstroke
|
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6+ A0 |
★★ Fisura Răsucită
![]()
1
6+ A0
40
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
Rested on the rope a lot to try and clear a stuck tricam
2
6+
40
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
Pulled on gear on the friable portion and on the face exit
3
4
20
4
6
35
| 140m, 15 | |||||
Thu 29th Jun 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B |
Valea Podurilor - firul principal
![]() | ||||||
When you end up falling, twice, off a 2m tall 3 UIAA bit just because it's a tad lubey, it's a sign from God you're not supposed to solo the 12m slab that's next. Not today at least.
|
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Valea Ciorânga Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B |
Valea Ciorânga
![]() | ||||||
Partial, up to the Ceaun, since the day's target was Tunelurile lui Tontsch.
|
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Sinaia | |||||||
Cariera din Sinaia | |||||||
5a+ |
★ Didi
![]() | 17m, 8 | |||||
Rain started
|
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5b |
★★ Chicken
![]() | 22m, 10 | |||||
In boots, for the hell of it. Almost worked
|
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5b |
★★ Chicken
![]() | 22m, 10 | |||||
Placing draws, held onto a couple while clipping
|
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Fri 9th Jun 2023 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Peretele Animalelor | |||||||
5 |
★★ Muchia Iepuraşului P1
![]() | 220m | |||||
Head not in yet for the sort of runout this starts with - bailed out of a pair of friends a few meters below the second piton after realizing I'd need a triple rack if I wanted to protect this like I felt I needed to this time around
|
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Peretele Animalelor | |||||||
6+ A0 |
★★★ Mielul cel Blând
![]()
1
5+
45m
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
2
6+ A0
30m
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
Crux (a traverse on technical slab) wasn't easy even as a second
3
6+ A0
55m
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
One of the most beautiful pitchs I've climbed in my life - so varied! Climb a crack, alternating laybacking with hand jams, then traverse on a technical slab to the great dihedral. The great dihedral is the best possible argument for uniting the old 2 pitches in the current single mega-pitch, it has such incredible flow, the initial part is a good rest from the layback crack since your weight is off your hands now, and then it arches for another balancy traverse on underclings ending with a rather bouldery exit beyond its corner, out on easy slab before the end. | 130m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Incredibly aesthetic
|
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6 A0 |
★★ Muchia Căprioarei
![]()
1
5+
40m
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
Slight rain,moving as fast as we can
2
5+
40m
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
By this time the rain had stopped. Ridge is lovely
3
3
25m
4
5+
35m
5
6 A0
40m
By this time we had caught on to another team on the route, and also the rain had started again rather more in earnest than the first time. Since their leader had already passed the now-quite-wet crux just before, they were kind enough to let us hitch one of our half-rope ends to one of them and have us both second it on a long, long chain of half-ropes. Crux is really iffy and unpleasant when wet, a lot of essential feet are smears and you really don't feel like pulling hard on the right slab either, it's not quite neatly attached to the wall. Ended up doing a lot of pull-ups and using the pitons as footholds.
6
6-
40m
| 220m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Caraiman | |||||||
Peretele Albişoarelor | |||||||
2A |
Albişoara Brânei
![]() | ||||||
Solo walk up to the first obstacle (knew I didn't want to continue since the exit is heavily corniched)
|
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1B |
Albişoara Turnurilor
![]() | ||||||
Solo. Lower obstacles already partially uncovered. Felt like I needed a belay
|
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Mon 1st May 2023 - Coștila | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
2A |
★★★ Valea Urzicii
![]() | ||||||
Solo. Perfect, perfect snow, covering everything under BMC. The major obstacle above BMC is also almost entirely covered - maybe 3m of M2 today. Didn't continue, though, since on such a warm and sunny day there was quite a bit of rockfall, a lot of it funnelled through the obstacle, and considering the visible corniche on the right upper line and that the invisible and theoretically corniche free left upper line involved a rocky friable ridge I didn't yet know if I was ok with unbelayed, I decided against the version of reality where I had a good chance of needing to go down the funnel...err... major obstacle once again 2h later in full noon sun. Easy descent, 90% walking and a bit of downclimbing, on not yet sticky snow, in 1h
|
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor MCM | |||||||
7- Hard |
★★★ Le Slaubeause
![]() | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Route is really cool and v psychological. Graded as a 6 in the park topo, really closer to 7-/7 (not only my opinion). Could get to the third bolt, couldn't make it past the crux there. Need to problem solve more
|
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor La Refugiu | |||||||
6 |
★ Diagonal
![]() | 25m | |||||
Tired and a bit off my game after Slabeause. Didn't have guts to lead it, was iffy about following it too but at least I got to the top
|
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor Prăpăstii | |||||||
3A |
Traseul Începătorilor P1
![]()
1
lead by
gabriel bazacliu
| ||||||
Friable and poorly protected, albeit v easy. Decided it wasn't worth it
|
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Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne | |||||||
M2 |
Brâul de Sus
![]() | ||||||
Hornul N portion, retreated at Saua cu Iarba due to snow conditions
|
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Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Caraiman | |||||||
Peretele Albişoarelor | |||||||
2A |
★★★ Albişoara Gemenelor
![]() | ★★★ Classic | |||||
On descent from Braul Hornurilor (tagging this as an attempt since the crux of the route in winter conditions is right above Braul Hornurilor). Concrete-hard iced snow, downclimbed the lot of it on belay, without swinging them my tools would often only penetrate if I placed them in my footprints, and the footprints often didn't show any marks for the secondary teeth... Not sure how, but we got to La Verdeata by daylight. Well, dusklight, but you know.
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Fri 10th Mar 2023 - Morarul | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B |
Valea Adâncă
![]() | ||||||
Having reached the valley entrance with hours to go, we went back up until 2000m altitude, when the snow got shitty and we got hungry. It's a highway to the ridge basically
|
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Thu 22nd Dec 2022 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului Sector Pintenul Magarului | |||||||
M7 Hard |
★ Ţânţarul
![]() | 27m | ★ Good | ||||
Workout. Tired.
|
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Wed 14th Dec 2022 - Coștila | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
4 |
★★ Valea Gălbinelelor (principal)
![]() | ||||||
We came, we saw, we fucked off. Too much work for an approach route.
|
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Tue 6th Dec 2022 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului New Dry-tooling Crag | |||||||
M4 |
12
![]() | 12m | |||||
Can do the moves (cool left layback traverse!) and, now that I've figured out that feet exist, could probably do it toprope. Am quite mentally tired after 4 days though, and controlling tiny holds or not blowing feet isn't happening anymore
|
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M7 |
10
![]() | 12m | |||||
Thought it was the M5 next to it and faffed a bit on the initial overhang
|
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M4 Hard |
2
![]() | 10m | |||||
Tried a face only version, to protect my wrist. Feels significantly harder than either the dihedral official entrance or the face part above. Can do the moves, but come out of it pumped out.
|
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Mon 5th Dec 2022 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului New Dry-tooling Crag | |||||||
M5 |
3
![]() | 10m | |||||
Cool crack with a sneaky face exit near the top. Really fun (and better feet than the M4 ladder next to it - cooler, more varied moves) but unfortunately I need to work with my right wrist at an angle for most of it, and it's an angle on a messed up tendon. Not going to try it again any time soon.
|
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M4 Hard |
2
![]() | 10m | |||||
Baby's first real drytooling experience. Life is significantly easier in the alpine where you do a couple moves between rest and full rest, even if the moves are harder. I have no idea how to make my feet stick well enough to not run out of gas halfway through a 10m route
|
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Sun 27th Nov 2022 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului Cave (Overhang) Dry-tooling Crag | |||||||
M8 Hard |
★ Corabia Nebunilor
![]() | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 26th Nov 2022 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului New Dry-tooling Crag | |||||||
M7 |
5
![]() | 12m | Crap | ||||
Crap!
|
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Sat 26th Nov 2022 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului Cave (Overhang) Dry-tooling Crag | |||||||
M8 Hard |
★ Corabia Nebunilor
![]() | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 19th Nov 2022 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului Sector Creasta Generalului | |||||||
6+ Hard |
★★★ Crida
![]() | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One of those classical limestone face 6 UIAAs on jugs but with the jugs sparse enough that you need to do some long moves. Some footsmears are useful, and at 2 points life gets positively balancy. Have figured out the moves more or less, can't yet connect them
|
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Coștila | |||||||
Umărul Gălbinelelor | |||||||
6 A1 ~6+ |
★★ Traseul Coman
![]()
1
4
40
lead by
andrei badea
2
3
20
lead by
andrei badea
Friable
3
4 A1
15
lead by
andrei badea
Used an aider to get past the crux. Pro is slightly spicy for a beginner like me (groundfall risk in the crux... not from high, but not nice either. Much easier w/o backpack since the crux is an offwidth that widens to a body jam so if you can enter the jam it'll make your life so much easier. There's a good hand jam in one of the secondary cracks if you can reach it when you'll need it. Above that it's easy chimney on good holds, no fixed pro but mobile opportunities.
4
3
35
lead by
andrei badea
5
6
50
lead by
andrei badea
Retreated off intermediate belay station from Rosculet due to rain and hearing some thunder in the distance. Crux is fun, an overhanging bouldery crack move. Seems to be a cool feet sequence there but I didn't have the time to work it out so just pulled on draws to get the hell out of Dodge. Splitting the length is a good idea anyway I feel, communication would be iffy otherwise. If you do retreat down Rosculet as we did, the next bolted station is 45m down on a grassy ledge under an overhang (you'll see an hourglass threaded with red 5mm cord on the way - we set the cord but didn't rap it - then a piton (rapped it, moves a bit but stayed fast) and then the bolt). I really really recommend having the last person that leaves the belay be someone who can deal with passing knots on rappel, and pulling the rope before they leave until it passes the grassy ledge, because it's a bit friable and likes to eat knots. 2 ~30m halfropes, frizzy lower ends, free to a good home if you hurry there.
6
| 160m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 20th Aug 2022 - Coștila | |||||||
Peretele Gălbinelelor | |||||||
5 A0 |
★★ Grotelor
![]()
1
3
lead by
Andrei Badea
2
4
lead by
Andrei Badea
3
5 A0
lead by
Andrei Badea
4
4 A0
lead by
Andrei Badea
5
5 A0
lead by
Andrei Badea
| 150m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First time on a wall route I didn't aid my whole way up on (and tbh, I'm not sure Suhardul Mic counts that much as a wall). Love.
Spoilers ahoy Approach was on Galbinele valley and Hornul dintre Fire. Pitch 1 is a classical alpine chimney, fun stemming, not really any useful pro but this isn't really fall territory either. Pitch 2 also an easy slab crack, nothing much to say. First two are approach, really. Pitch 3 is where the fun begins. After a start that's either bouldery (official version) or a bit of a finesse traverse to the right (our version) you do a slabby traverse to the right to an oblique overhanging crack where a big old peg is visible. We clipped into it, creating mucho rope drag for the rest of the pitch, then downclimbed the traverse and headed straight up on less pumpy terrain until the bolt at the beginning of the second crack. Then started the pumpy overhangy part (topo said good holds, I broke a couple of them before saying screw it and starting to pull on quickdraws). Crux is a slightly bouldery exit out of the overhang using a crack to the right, that we felt is a bit spicier than the claimed 6/6+ . Can easily be aided through with the use of a 0.5 friend, however (the only mobile we ended up using). After that, it's easy terrain up to the belay Pitch 4 is long and well protected (about 20 pegs/bolts) and we only had 13 quickdraws on us so we ended up splitting it in 2 (there's a belay station from Don Corleone accessible from it). Pitch 4.1 was lots of slabby crack, basically, with a few careful traverses, and pitch 4.2 started with an easy slab walkup to the left and then a well-protected few meters up with an exit between a few boulders that would make linking this with p5 a bit iffy, I think Pitch 5 is short but not easy - after a slab traverse to the left you head up on a system of cracks on a slightly overhangy background. Secondary crux of the route - it's far less pumpy than the initial one, but unlike p3 this isn't on jugs but requires balance, finesse feet and some rather sinuous dance steps. Had we but worlds enough and time, I'd have loved to work this out like a sport route since it's right at the limit of my rotpunkt ability and very much my style, but I had a train to catch and the whole of Galbinele valley to descend on a still iffy ankle so if a move wouldn't go on the second try I pulled on the quickdraw for the third and moved on. Retreat was by rapping down (I had left my trekking sticks at the Costila refuge and had to get them back) - first 3 raps would've worked on a single 60m rope, if a bit on the edge of it, 4th one needs maybe 70m of rope, and 5th needs 2 60m ropes stretched to the limit and reaches a peg one can also do a not-very-standard short rap off non-vertical terrain to the valley bottom to avoid a bit of downclimbing. Then we descended off the Galbenele Valley main line, which is pretty full of scree from this year's earlier rockfall off Tavanele de Argint |
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Wed 17th Aug 2022 - Pârâul Rece | |||||||
Faleza Mare | |||||||
6+ |
★★ Nea Caisă
![]() | 20m | |||||
6+ |
★★ Nea Caisă
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First clip a bit high and spacing on bolts a bit scary for beginners. But all around good climb just find the rests.
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6+ |
★★ Nea Caisă
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 |
★★ Ţancul Retezat
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
On-sight it is not very clear where the intended bolts are and if they are so far in-between. Commitment to the bulge is too much.
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Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Pietrele lui Solomon | |||||||
Faleza Junilor | |||||||
6a+ |
★★ La școala de ghizi
![]() | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Fantastic route. BIG recomend
|
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Mon 15th Aug 2022 - Pietrele lui Solomon | |||||||
Faleza Junilor | |||||||
5c+ |
★ Stagiatura
![]() | ★ Good | |||||
Wed 3rd Aug 2022 - Pârâul Rece | |||||||
Faleza Mare | |||||||
6 |
★★ Clasic
![]() | 37m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 2nd Aug 2022 - Pietrele lui Solomon | |||||||
Faleza Junilor | |||||||
6a+ |
★★ Examenul de capacitate
![]() | ★★ Very Good | |||||
I had some difficulty with the barbaresa
|
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Mon 1st Aug 2022 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor La Refugiu | |||||||
6 |
★ Diagonal
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 6/6+ |
★★ Doi Jidani
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 30th Jul 2022 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Valea Dâmbovicioarei Faleza La Pensiune | |||||||
6- |
★ Alex
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard for the grade.
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6 |
★ Ştefan
![]() | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
Very hard for the grade, even with the drilled out crimp at the crux!
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Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Pietrele lui Solomon | |||||||
Faleza Junilor | |||||||
6a+ |
★★ La școala de ghizi
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Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Făgărașului Massif | |||||||
Sâmbăta Colţul Bălăceni | |||||||
5 |
★★ Muchia Nord-Vestică
![]() | 320m | ★ Good | ||||
Retreated with 3 pitches to go due to storm risk. We did an alternate version that skips the first 2 easy pitches (with a sketchy belay - 2 pitons, 1 of them 50 years old and the other badly placed, apparentl) and replaces them with 4 not very long all trad pitches (max UIAA 4 and not for long). Retreat was 3 raps and a bit of downclimbing on the main route line - 1 rap was pitch 3 of the original route(mind the ropes, if rapping off the big rock you need to go a bit left from the comfy part of the belay or the in situ cordelette starts rubbing on a sharp edge) 1 rap was part of pitch 2 (which is 70m) and the third one was off a new rap station we set up on 2 blade pitons. I'd advise against using it as a belay station since the pitons are good but the rock isn't, and there are few protection opportunities on the grassy gully above. A fourth rap is possible off a rock spike to the right of the gully line, but we just downclimbed it.
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Thu 14th Apr 2022 - Morarul | |||||||
Colţii Morarului | |||||||
2 |
★★★ Traversarea Acelor Morarului
![]()
1
2
lead by
Andrei Badea
2
2-
lead by
Andrei Badea
| ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Winter conditions. Did Acul mare, retreated because of lack of time, iffy snow ahead and great snow on our retreat option
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Mon 21st Mar 2022 - Făgărașului Massif | |||||||
Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) Paltinu Mixed Crags Left | |||||||
M6 |
?
![]() | 50m | Crap | ||||
Very poor conditions. 1-2cm ice, minimal pro in place. Had to downclimb after an 8m runout above the last bolt, as I couldn't find the next one.
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Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Făgărașului Massif | |||||||
Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) Paltinu Mixed Crags Central | |||||||
M8 |
★ Te Dai ori nu te Dai (Te Dai sau nu te Dai)
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 18th Mar 2022 - Făgărașului Massif | |||||||
Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) Paltinu Mixed Crags Central | |||||||
M8 |
★★ Share Location
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
M6 |
Access Direct
![]() | 25m, 8 | Crap | ||||
Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului New Dry-tooling Crag | |||||||
M7 |
8
![]() | 12m | |||||
Fell because multiple holds broke.
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M7 |
9
![]() | 12m | |||||
Fell because multiple holds broke.
|
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M7 |
5
![]() | 12m | Don't Bother | ||||
M7 |
5
![]() | 12m | Don't Bother | ||||
Too friable, broke several holds. Decided to bail instead.
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M8 |
★★ 6
![]() | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell because a hold broke.
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M8 |
7
![]() | 13m | |||||
Could not find the link.
|
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M7 |
8
![]() | 12m | |||||
Fell because multiple holds broke.
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M7 |
8
![]() | 12m | |||||
Fell because multiple holds broke.
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Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului Sector Pintenul Magarului | |||||||
M7 |
★ Ţânţarul
![]() | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Soaking rain.
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Sat 11th Dec 2021 - Coștila | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B |
Valea Seacă a Coştilei
![]() | ||||||
10-20cm of soft snow. Retreat at 1700m (crossing Valea Verde and Malinului and descending on Valcelul lui Teodor) due to bad weather and late time. Single, nontechnical axe (fine as second if avoiding the main obstacles)
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Sat 27th Nov 2021 - Bucşoiul | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B |
★★★ Valea Bucşoiului
![]() | ||||||
Stopped and rapped back down at Turnul cu Jnepeni so as to make it to the path by daylight.
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Sat 5th Dec 2020 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului Cave (Overhang) Dry-tooling Crag | |||||||
M8 |
★ Corabia Nebunilor
![]() | 22m |