Ascents in South-West

A bit of chimneying and some water ice . Uncomfortable belay on 2 pitons with cordelette

Mostly low-angle and runout, not very well protectable with screws. Belay on 2 bulldogs and 1 knifeblade on a ledge at the right of the route, using the "official" belay (1 piton) as a Jesus piece

20m of delicate climbing on a verglas-covered dihedral, protected mostly on gear and not a lot of it either, then 1 good rest with a new knifeblade in it (hammered in upside down and only halfway in, but I couldn't remove the thing, and I tried...) before 1 oblique verglassy flaring chimney (crux of the pitch) and easy terrain to the belay (2 pitons, hanging belay if you're short). As a second, it's beautiful, beautiful climbing...

Smooth-walled dihedral, with a line of frozen grass in the middle. As the dihedral gets steeper and almost overhanging at times, the grass line gets narrower and rock feet become necessary. Right before the ridge exit, there's an overhanging boulder. The summer UIAA 6 grade is probably correct (slightly overhanging layback on great handholds and high-adherence feet) but that solution doesn't work in crampons, and if too little ice forms on it the free climbing solution (a traverse to the left on really sketchy holds) is apparently M7/8. Me I just climbed the pitons ;p

Simulled the rest of the ridge

Very difficult pitch, due to the snow that covered all (the non-existent) footholds. Leader took around 1:20h to complete the pitch, I followed in a rush and completed it in around 20mins. Leader almost fell in the crux move, due to a slopy hold, but luckily had the lower axe in a good one. Me on the other hand, didn't have the lower axe in the hold and consequently fell from the sloper. Maybe I was too rushed/lazy being top-roped. Very sustained pitch, I was very proud of Virgil for it!

Pulled on one piton since, with another team behind us, I was under the impression we were in a hurry. Was informed that we weren't.

Chimney is fun as hell

Lovely day out on a sunny, snowed up ridge.

Pitons pulled: 1 on the slab above the belay since I'd land on the other team if I slipped, 2 in the crux dihedral

Really, really cool climbing otherwise, Slabs and traverses on fine feet up to the dihedral, then a light but very fun cracked slab - alternating between offwidth moves on the left appendages and finesse slab on the right appendages is really interesting

Simulclimbing

Simulclimbing, rap retreat on the gully to the left.