Ascents: Ascents in Bucegi Massif as Retreat

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Quality	Climber
Sun 5th May 2024 - Coștila
Văi şi brâne
	1B	Valea Coştilei	Alpine	Crap	Ruxandra V
Retreated at the canyon - a bit too much rockfall going on around me to risk it in the Costila particle accelerator.
Thu 11th Apr 2024 - Caraiman
Valea Spumoasă Pintenul Cascadei Inspumate
		Meșterică - with Andrei Badea	Sport 100m, 16		Ruxandra V
Probably a fun easy slab route when not covered in crap
Thu 28th Dec 2023 - Coștila
Văi şi brâne
	1B	★★★ Hornul Coamei - with baza	Alpine	★★★ Mega Classic	Ruxandra V
Really cool conditions (mostly dry in the lower side, hard ice patches) but after the approach from hell we were out of time. Rapped down from below the Furci icefall (not yet formed).
Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Morarul
Văi şi brâne
	M4	Râpa Zăpezii - Râpa Mare - with baza	Alpine	Crap	Ruxandra V
Perfect consolidated snow in the lower part. The obstacle below the intersection with Rapa mica was recently affected by rockfall. The lower slab is full of crap, the upper right exit is blocked, and the upper left has you go through a new and poorly consolidated chimney and exit thru a sharp-edged window for a committing, exposed move on friable crap. Between this and the hopefully-not-tuberculosis cold from hell, I had bad vibes about continuing so we rapped off (we added a second piton to the rap station over the second obstacle - crack could be deeper, but it should do)
Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Coștila
Ţancul Ascuţit
	7- A0	★★ Traseul Căţărătorului - with Mara Miron	Trad 95m		Andrei Verdeanu
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Sinaia
Cariera din Sinaia
	5a+	★ Didi	Sport 17m, 8		Ruxandra V
Rain started
Wed 14th Dec 2022 - Coștila
Văi şi brâne
	4	★★ Valea Gălbinelelor (principal) - with Andrei Badea	Alpine		Ruxandra V
We came, we saw, we fucked off. Too much work for an approach route.
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Coștila
Umărul Gălbinelelor
	6 A1 ~6+	★★ Traseul Coman - with andrei badea 1 4 40 Second lead by andrei badea 2 3 20 Second lead by andrei badea Friable 3 4 A1 15 Second lead by andrei badea Used an aider to get past the crux. Pro is slightly spicy for a beginner like me (groundfall risk in the crux... not from high, but not nice either. Much easier w/o backpack since the crux is an offwidth that widens to a body jam so if you can enter the jam it'll make your life so much easier. There's a good hand jam in one of the secondary cracks if you can reach it when you'll need it. Above that it's easy chimney on good holds, no fixed pro but mobile opportunities. 4 3 35 Second lead by andrei badea 5 6 50 Second lead by andrei badea Retreated off intermediate belay station from Rosculet due to rain and hearing some thunder in the distance. Crux is fun, an overhanging bouldery crack move. Seems to be a cool feet sequence there but I didn't have the time to work it out so just pulled on draws to get the hell out of Dodge. Splitting the length is a good idea anyway I feel, communication would be iffy otherwise. If you do retreat down Rosculet as we did, the next bolted station is 45m down on a grassy ledge under an overhang (you'll see an hourglass threaded with red 5mm cord on the way - we set the cord but didn't rap it - then a piton (rapped it, moves a bit but stayed fast) and then the bolt). I really really recommend having the last person that leaves the belay be someone who can deal with passing knots on rappel, and pulling the rope before they leave until it passes the grassy ledge, because it's a bit friable and likes to eat knots. 2 ~30m halfropes, frizzy lower ends, free to a good home if you hurry there. 6 Trad	Trad 160m	★★ Very Good	Ruxandra V
Thu 14th Apr 2022 - Morarul
Colţii Morarului
	2	★★★ Traversarea Acelor Morarului - with Andrei Badea 1 2 lead by Andrei Badea 2 2- lead by Andrei Badea	Trad	★★★ Mega Classic	Ruxandra V
Winter conditions. Did Acul mare, retreated because of lack of time, iffy snow ahead and great snow on our retreat option
Sat 11th Dec 2021 - Coștila
Văi şi brâne
	1B	Valea Seacă a Coştilei - with Marian Anghel	Alpine		Ruxandra V
10-20cm of soft snow. Retreat at 1700m (crossing Valea Verde and Malinului and descending on Valcelul lui Teodor) due to bad weather and late time. Single, nontechnical axe (fine as second if avoiding the main obstacles)
Sat 27th Nov 2021 - Bucşoiul
Văi şi brâne
	1B	★★★ Valea Bucşoiului	Alpine		Ruxandra V
Stopped and rapped back down at Turnul cu Jnepeni so as to make it to the path by daylight.

1 4 40 Second lead by andrei badea

2 3 20 Second lead by andrei badea

Friable

3 4 A1 15 Second lead by andrei badea

Used an aider to get past the crux. Pro is slightly spicy for a beginner like me (groundfall risk in the crux... not from high, but not nice either. Much easier w/o backpack since the crux is an offwidth that widens to a body jam so if you can enter the jam it'll make your life so much easier. There's a good hand jam in one of the secondary cracks if you can reach it when you'll need it. Above that it's easy chimney on good holds, no fixed pro but mobile opportunities.

4 3 35 Second lead by andrei badea

5 6 50 Second lead by andrei badea

Retreated off intermediate belay station from Rosculet due to rain and hearing some thunder in the distance. Crux is fun, an overhanging bouldery crack move. Seems to be a cool feet sequence there but I didn't have the time to work it out so just pulled on draws to get the hell out of Dodge. Splitting the length is a good idea anyway I feel, communication would be iffy otherwise.

If you do retreat down Rosculet as we did, the next bolted station is 45m down on a grassy ledge under an overhang (you'll see an hourglass threaded with red 5mm cord on the way - we set the cord but didn't rap it - then a piton (rapped it, moves a bit but stayed fast) and then the bolt). I really really recommend having the last person that leaves the belay be someone who can deal with passing knots on rappel, and pulling the rope before they leave until it passes the grassy ledge, because it's a bit friable and likes to eat knots. 2 ~30m halfropes, frizzy lower ends, free to a good home if you hurry there.

6 Trad

Ascents in Bucegi Massif as Retreat

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