Routes in Slovakia for selected grade

neodbočiť doprava do špáry

right variant "Kraband" 6+

Pomerne naročne, tehnicke lezanie. Podl'a našho nazoru ma cesta vyššiu obtiažnost

Pomerne naročne, tehnicke lezanie. Podl'a našho nazoru ma cesta vyššiu obtiažnost

This is the most classic route here and often climbed.

1. Start with an obvious unique hand crack in a corner. The anchor is on pitons, you can skip it and connect the first two pitches (50-55m).

2. Continue up the corner, at the end exit to the right, 2-3m from the corner there is a bolted anchor on the ledge.

3. Straight up, slightly to the left, diagonaly. Bolted anchor on the ledge.

4. Head towards an obvious cross made from two cracks, easier to left, harder straight up (2m right and then up the shallow chimney). Anchor on bolts.

5. Traverse to the right on exposed ledge (Filmárská lavka) to a nice structured ledge. There is a bolt on the right 2-3m from the anchor, a sling and a piton. The next bolted anchor is on the right side of the ledge.

6. Go straight up and then climb across the slab diagonally to left below typical overhangs (Hokejka - hokey stick), 40m approx. Do not climb too close under the roof. You should find few pitons on the way. The anchor is few meters after a shallow corner.

7. Go straight up under the overhang. There are two pitons and one sling in the overhang.. Start straight. and tranverse the overhang to the right above the roof. Continue bit to the right and up the corner (often wet).

8. Continue up a corner, the bolted belay is under a narrow chimney. Even though you can skip this achor, I do not recommend it, because of the rope drag at the crux, which is at the end of the next pitch.

9. Up the chimney/corner, the crux is protected by a bolt with a sling (the crux is quite sandbag for 6+). There are plenty of pitons here, you don't need much gear, if any, just quickdraws.

10. Go up a water-polished chimney into Lievik (funnel). This part is threaten by flash flood in thunderstoms and accidents have been reported here. Start in the left chimney (pitons), you can exit to the right on the pilar (piton), or continue the narrow chimney..

11. Climb up to the summit in easier ground (2-3). Belay on the fence.. It more than 60m, you can cllimb few meters simultaneously.

Belays are bolted.

Superior quality of rock. Belays bolted, two bolts in crux places, otherwise trad, but reasonable gear placement.

Delightful delicate climb in slabs with use of crack systems that leads you through steep slabs. Grade feels good. In spring you may find water flowing down from melting snow, summer and fall is the ideal time to visit.