Routes in Slovenia

Nice long via ferrata above lake Bohinj. Only a steel cable, no pegs or any other help. Unfortunately only smaller parts are pure rock, otherwise also climbing on soil and through vegetation. But the views are incredible! Can be seen in three parts: First third is via ferrata (about C/D), with the probably often used exit down a scree field, then the second third, a scramble (with short parts UIAA 1) through a forest, less traveled. Then the last third, which is the second part of the via ferrata (about D/E). Beware of ticks and snakes! Detailed description: https://www.hike.uno/hiking_tour/ukanc_prsivec_ferata_ozarjeni_kamen/1/254/7413

The route runs in the right part of the north wall. It offers a pleasant climb of moderate difficulty on a fairly good scale. Above it joins Severni raz, with which the last two stretches have in common.

Entry In the ravine, which leads below the Severni raz, we climb another 20m. We enter the ramp on the left.

Descent On the way to the top of M. Mojstrovka or down the Hanzova a) along the Hanzova to the end b) between NŠG and M. Mojstrovka along the path to Vršič

The route is equipped, it is recommended to have a wedge with you because on some stands the old pitons are quite wobbly and ridged.

Equipment of the route Stands and intermediate protection with pitons.

From the stump between the peak which is shifted to the north and the masterpiece after the cut into the wall, when we see pitons in the white wall we follow them around the ravine, then right along the ravine to the little man, a little above the little man the river to the left and then stretch along the ravine to the top.

https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/riba/

Entrance 30 m to the right of the western ravine. After the dismembered overhanging wall into the abyss below the overhang. Left along the shaft 15 m, then straight up over the overhang into the lighter world (a medium-sized pin is recommended for protection at this point, preferably two). 60 m to the right and up over the slabs behind the arete/ridge, then to the left and over the overhang into the ravine. Continue along the ravine to the edge of the wall.

Entry In the direction of West ridge along the ravine and scree up to the saddle. We then descend to the other side approximately 50 m down into the entrance to the left corner of the roof (which is halfway up the wall).

Descent Left down the Hanseatic path to the saddle between Mala Mojstrovka and Nad Šitom Glavo. Then we turn right down towards Vršič and soon we come across a well-trodden path that leads us to the scree below Grebenc and further towards Tičarjev dom to Vršič.

https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/kranjska-poc/

The line follows a wildly overhanging terrain and often traverses left and right to follow the path of least resistance.

Gear:

a set of cams from micro to #3, 10 quickdraws, a few long slings to reduce rope drag.

https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/smer-po-zajedi-2/

Lots of old pitons in the route. The main pitch has a big crack, good to have a Cam #3.

https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/smer-humar-skarja/

4-5h

http://www.primorskestene.com/?mod=catalog&id=652&action=viewRout&action_id=87&language=sl&lang=sl

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hha-rTJAhWc

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/slowenischer-weg-triglav/

https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/juzni-raz/

3h, Pitons. Rock is "solid", a third chimney pitch might be easier without a backpack on your shoulders. https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/spominska-srecku-rihterju/

https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/smer-debelakove/

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/smer-debelakove-grosse-mojstrovka/

https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/hudicev-steber/

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/teufelspfeiler-prisank/

Equipped: Belay stations and intermediate protection with old pitons

A brief description

Entrance to a distinctive chimney, which is divided into two parts below. On the left branch up (on the right leads a slightly more demanding variant) and on the boulder. Continue over the overhang and left into a gravel gutter. After an easy ravine up to a narrow black and usually also a wet chimney. By stemming and back-and-foot climbing (20m) up to the gravel hollow. Continue along with the dissected, crumbling chimney to a wide gravel ravine. You can follow it to the last chimney in the direction. Across the entrance of the chimney on the right and up to the wedged rock. Continue along the chimney, which is becoming more and more fragmented to a gravelly hollow. Here it is possible to exit left on the Hanseatic path (20m for the edge and up II-III) or further in the ravine area up (100m II-III) to the edge of the wall.

Entry From Vršič on the way to the ridge. At the gate, turn left along the path that leads under the wall above Nad Šitom glave and further under the northern wall of Mala Mojtrovka.

The belay stations are equipped with pitons.

Recently, there was a landslide in the direction over the second stretch. Ridge broke up into blocks (including bolts) for a short time. There are a lot of stones and sand on the lower part.

The direction is fully equipped, the bolts are marked with red circles. Because the distances between them are occasionally quite large, some butterflies will not harm sports climbers.

https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/severni-raz/

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/mala-mojstrovka-nordkante/

The amount of equipment needed depends on each individual climber and his need for protection (mental condition). However, it is definitely recommended that you enter the wall at least with basic mountaineering equipment.

The route is not equipped.

Entry Entrance through a deep gutter - chimney.

(traverse)