Routes in Free State

uses HP bolts, and only rock between HK and BP bolt lines

Sit down start up on arete to top out.

Starts with right in a pocket, make a long move to a higher pocket and finish on good grips.

A natural line used to establish the anchors. It goes up the obvious corner, take care on the hanging column as it seems to be loose.

Sit down start in a small scoop on two edges, long move up right and top out.

Climb the crack and dodge the bush, careful of the loose block.

Traverse in from the right. Start ±2m to right on a good crimp, make a big move to jugs.

This is the left-hand route on the south face. Start directly below the first bolt. Pull up through a bulge onto a ledge. Using the rock on the left reduces the grade significantly.

The long slab forming the right side of the Prow.

Start sitting with good holds about 1.5m left of the concrete pillar, traverse to the left to KYLA on sharp holds staying low.

This is Alard & Marianne's crazy trad project taking the large left slanting crack that heads all the way up the mountain on an east facing side. The start is in a forest just right of a short bolted line in the honeycomb rock.

Start crouched, mono for the right at belly height and left on an edge. Use toe hook on left, climb up on sharp grips.

Climb the overhanging arête. A short but bouldery line.

Start as for Rhino, but carry straight up all the way. 2 move wonder 21, can be aided by pulling on a draw, still much harder move than the rest of the 3 pitches combined.

Stand start on a platform with an undercling, top out and don't fall!

Low start on a sidepull for the right and shallow mono for the left up to heucos and crimps. Top out via some rather loose rock. Kilian repeated the problem thinking it was open (error in guide) and named it WEGNEEM, Damian had never given it a name.

Excellent steep start to a throw at the lip then pumpy technical to the chains. Can be done from the first bolt on the headwall at 26 as originally done by Marc Efune (Ghost and the Machine).

Starts sitting with a pinch for the left and edge or sidepull for the right, climb straight up past the little bush & top out.

Start standing on a rock, diagonal edge for your right and climb to top tending right.

apparently also exist in this area, but no other info is available - even the first ascentionist (Alex Steyn) can't remember where it goes !

Start from the rock just left of the arête on the right-hand side of the south face. Climb up left of the arête to reach the ledge then move up left to the anchors on 'Dry Ice'. The start is fingery and off balance. It is difficult to recover your draws.

The long slab forming the right side of the Prow.

Incomplete line on the north ("car park") side of the boulder.

There are no chains.

Stand start 1m left of the stone wall on the arête, starting on pockets.

Climb the obvious crack right of No Thought. The route starts from the boulder. The potential exists for a much harder extension to the route from the ground up, or perhaps this is best climbed as a distinct boulder problem. The first ascentionist left all his smaller nuts at home, thinking he would need only the larger sizes for the crack. Probably only nuts smaller than a DMM#5 will be needed, or micro cams of the same size.

Stand start, move left hand to undercling and right hand on arete, top out up arete.

Sit start with undercling for left and right in a one finger pocket inside the heuco. Move up to an edge on the right, take pockets and heucos to the bush. The big heuco on the right may need to be off-route.

Left of Scarface. A bit short but a really cool climb. Interesting technical and powerful moves.

apparently also exist in this area, but no other info is available - even the first ascentionist (Alex Steyn) can't remember where it goes !

Start up 'Slightly Chilled' to the first bolt, then move to the right, around the arête and onto the east face. Continue up just to the right of the arête to reach the anchors.

Left-most bolted line.

Start on the lowest large edge in the middle of the overhanging face and head out right.

This route starts at the Windy Gap corner of the mountain. There is a tree up against the mountain here. The first bolts are just to the right of the tree. A super fun route! Take two 50m ropes to abseil down. A 60m rope will be a little too short!

1. 22 (9B) 30m A pumpy pitch leads to a comfy cave belay.

2. 23 (8B) 25m Lead straight up through a 'fun' crux.

3. 19 (9B) 40m Heads up until the angle starts easing off.

Climb the line of bolts near the centre of the overhanging face. Some of the holds near the top have broken off and the route may now be significantly more difficult.

Start as for Apache, traverse to Navaho.

Stand start with left in the undercling heuco and right in edge in heuco. Up and slightly to the left, dyno up to a pocket. A good mat and spotter for this one are essential!

Walk around to the face on the opposite side to the previous climbs. Climb the horns and jugs on the arête slightly to the right of the bolts (Baby Bear - 8), or climb straight up the line of bolts (Pappa Bear - 10), or climb the arête to the left of the bolts (Momma Bear - 9).

Climbs up the low arête from a sit start. Start low on a big flat ledge & smaller crimp slightly higher for the right and top out.

Originally lead/soloed by Joffrey & Martin as an access route up the main face, turned out to have 2 damn fine pitches. It starts on a short grey face about 70m left of MIRACLE FOUNTAIN. This route is still evolving and since it was an access route some of the bolts are not ideal! Please note that this route as yet does not go all the way to the top.

1. 19 (6D,A) 13m Straight up to the grassy ledge. You may want to climb past the anchors and onto the grassy ledge. There are anchors to use about 2-3m to the left on the face.

2. 18 (10D,A) 26m An excellent pitch up some surprisingly solid rock, climbs up two bulges to a tree. Tie a knot in the end of the rope!

3. 10 (4D,A) Walk right from the tree along the ledge until you can see anchors in a vegetated gully. From here do a mantle move with a big slab above and climb diagonally to your left traversing quite a bit after clipping the first bolt.

4. 16 (7D,A) Follow the bolts to the chains.

5. 13 (A) Top anchors only, climb up rightward toward the forest. This is for access only and hence no bolts but is very easy climbing and allows for a great view!

First Ascent: Jul 2000 Pitches 2-4 led on trad (or can you say so if no gear was placed?).

Pitches 1 & 2 bolted by Martin Bruning & Joffrey Hyman. Pitches 3 & 4 bolted by Dylan Morgan.

apparently also exist in this area, but no other info is available - even the first ascentionist (Alex Steyn) can't remember where it goes !

Climb the line of bolts up the middle of the downhill face.

Set to become one of the harder classics of the crag. The steep ramp leads to the obvious overhanging layback. Traverse beneath and then through the roof to the slab above.

Start with left in a pocket and right on an edge, move up to an edge and top out.