★★ Hanglip Frontal G2

The lower section follow the largest area of grey rock on the South East side of the mountain. Start 150 steps to the left of the fence, which runs straight up to the rock face. Start at tha large tree growing 3m away from the rock face.

1. 18m (E2) Climb up to stance above tree inside cave-like recess.

2. 22m (D) Step up to small ledge on right and traverse right out of recess. Climb up to ledge on right. Traverse 3m right into crack and up to stance

3. 30m (E2) Move up boulder on right. Traverse round corner and up crack past small overhang to ledge with blocks.

4. 40m (E3+) Climb corner above to grass ledge. Follow grass bands via exposed crack with tree on top, and to next tree which is below major rockband.

5. Scramble 5m up to grass ledge and walk left along ledge to a chimney and recess.

6. 15m (E2) Climb up to overhang and left to stance.

7. 24m (E3) After a long pullup, follow easy rock slightly left to a bush.

8. 18m (D) Climb diagonally left to rockband and climb out right to main grass band, which divides the upper and lower sections of Hanglip.

9. 30m (F2) The upper section starts just to the right of the highest point of the grass band, where it begins to dip steeply downwards to the right. Start well to the right, going up over a series of long ledges, then move left of a pile of small blocks to an overhang. Traverse left just under the small overhang and up to a block on whicha stance can be made.

10. 15m (F2) Traverse left along ledge, crossing an open gap by climbing down 2m in an exposed position, or alternatively climbing up and jumping down from a sleng point (E).

11. 33m (F2) From the belay climb up to ledge and traverse right until it is possible to break through rockband above (very tricky on loose rock). Continue right along rock band and up to grassy ledge and stance.

12. 16m (F1+) From the top of a block mantleshelf onto ledge and climb out to the right.

13. 18m (F2) Start about 13m to the left of a square corner by climbing open book to overhang. Traverse right to cubby-hole.

14. 4m (G2) Ascend bottomless recess to another cubby-hole. Originally done on aid (F2 A1).

15. 20m (E3) Traverse to the right and then climb up to an open book recess. This recess is climbed to a stance on a grass ledge.

16. 20m (E3) Climb a crack and work out to the left by climbing up to an overhang. Complete the route by climbing out to the right.

FA: R. Barry, C. Purdham (1937-12-25)

Variation: Starting from the top of pitch 8 to near the bottom of pitch 12, this section can be climbed in two direct pitches.

Decent: If the climb is completed in daylight, a fairly quick descent, involving a short abseil, can be made in the vicinity of the first saddle behind the main peak. As this route is not easy to find in darkness, late parties are advised to contour around on the rough, bushy slopes of the next 'hump' to a more obvious route where a steep grassy gully breaks the rock faces.

To decent to Hanglip North, the descent is as follows: From the top beacon of Hanglip, keeping basically right, descend to a neck between a small koppie and Hanglip. The koppie overlooks the valley of Hanglip North. DO NOT go down the gully, but descend the slope diagonally left of the gully.