★★ C’est la Bon 17

From the platform at the end of the buttress climb the crack in the middle of the face for three metres and then move diagonally right. Traverse left for two metres to below the obvious crack and follow this to the top. This little number is no push over and has sent more than one hard man tumbling in the wrong direction.

• Classic 17 – pro for the first 3 m is interesting. A direct version goes straight up, about 18, less protection, about 15m.

Keep it clean and know what you doing around unclimbed faces as its easy to slide on the grass and off the edge. There is also potential for new routes on the face left of Tuxedo, and off the ledge running for next 50m left of Tuxedo, and the large Boneyard style face (with a deep undercut) across deep gulley about 80m onwards.