Routes in GrootKloof

The climb starts about 10m downstream of Woody Gully at a large (75cm diameter trunk) tree. Above the start 2m up is an overhang which runs more or less unbroken from Woody Gully.

1. 15m (10) Climb up to ledge just above the tree and traverse left under the overhang. Ascend left of the overhang and continue up and slightly diagonally right on knobbly rock to a large ledge. The main feature of the second pitch is a sharp dihedral crack with a tree 4m up. The tree's roots go down the crack to the ledge.

2. 40m (15) Climb up the bottom part of the crack using the tree roots. Above the tree make an off-balance move to get into the crack. Follow the crack up and move onto the left hand wall where the right hand wall becomes overhanging. Continue up over another cruxy section where the crack widens a bit to a large ledge. It is possible to belay here if you want to see you second, otherwise continue up on easy sloping slab to the top.

Scramble off the back of the climb and walk down Woody Gully.

1. 15m 10 The same as EPITHALAMIUM.

2. 23m 17 This pitch starts from the same ledge as EPITHALAMIUM but about 5m downstream. Take off from a tree stump at the bottom of a steep crack about 150-220mm wide. Climb this for about 10m, passing two chockstones. Another 3m gets you to a small stance which has an "eye" and good belay cracks.

3. 20m 17 Traverse left 2m and ascend the thin face for 6m. Traverse back into the main crack. (Alternatively, continue up the main crack to overhanging block and move strenuously out onto face before continuing.) Ascend crack for a further 3m and then climb easy face to tree belay.

Note: HOWLER and HUBRIS follow the same line as this route and have been excluded.

This climb starts 5m downstream of EPITHALAMIUM. The start is in a recess which is about 3m to the right of another shorter, root-filled recess.

1. 12m 15 Ascend the recess to the wide ledge mentioned in the description of EPITHALAMIUM. To avoid chockstone at top of recess go onto face to left. Walk 15m to left to start of next pitch.

2. 9m 15,A1 Above is an obvious large recess, about 25m high, roofed at the top, and starting about 3m above the ledge. The difficulty of the pitch is in the 3m section to the bottom of the recess. Use a shoulder (human pyramid used in first ascent) or a tree on the left to negotiate the first awkward section. Walk up into depth of recess where there is a cave.

3. 22m 8 Ascend left hand wall of the recess, making use of a crack. This is a pleasant pitch.

Situated between PYRAMID and SLICKENSIDE WALL. The climb begins in a recess by a small waterfall about 30m upstream from SLICKENSIDE WALL.

1. 35m 13 Start at bottom of crack in recess. Climb for about 20m past two trees and loose rock. Move onto the right hand wall. Climb wall past a tree to a large platform.

2. 40m 10 Move left into a V-shaped chimney. Climb this to the top.

This climb starts about 10m upstream of the start of SLICKENSIDE WALL, and follows a prominent crack up the middle of a downstream facing face.

1. 18m 19 Climb the crack to the overhang exiting right to easier ground and tree belay.

Note: Abseil from convenient tree.

The route is located by a very smooth wall which is bounded on the left by a small buttress, the side of which forms a face at 135 degrees to the smooth wall. There is a crack in the corner formed by the wall and buttress. Below the smooth wall the rock becomes slightly more broken and still lower there is a cave about 5m above the stream bed. In wet seasons there may be a small waterfall down the wall and over the cave. At a tree about 15m left of the cave, scramble 5m to a ledge.

1. 18m 15 Traverse 11m right along the edge to just past the buttress. Ascend in the corner formed by the wall and buttress. After about 6m move diagonally right to a small ledge. (The very smooth section of the wall lies above this ledge.) Walk 5m right to a stance.

2. 15m 13 A short easier face leads to a big ledge about 6m higher. Continue up steep but rather dirty rock to another ledge. (An easier way here is to climb from the first to the second ledge further to the right, grade 10 but dirty.)

3. 28m 13 Traverse left to a reddish ridge which is approximately above the smooth wall. Climb the downstream face of this ridge. Steep but good grips. The rock is clean in compensation for the previous pitch.

Behind Isolation Pinnacle on the upstream corner is a crack in a corner of the main cliff.

1. 12m 17 Climb crack until just before it begins to overhang, then traverse right and up to a stance.

2. 8m 13 Climb face above to large ledge with tree and block (level with top of pinnacle).

3. 10m 15 Climb diagonally left to a corner. Move just around corner and then straight up to top.

Variation:

1. 20m 17 Climb crack straight through overhanging section to belay at top of pitch 2. (5 Aug 1984 T. O'Connor and Tim Willmot)

The objective is the "Cherry" perched above CHERRY ON THE TOP.

1. 4m 21 Climb the crack.

A prelude to YOU ASKED FOR IT. When combined with YOU ASKED FOR IT a good technical pitch is the result. Starts from the step across from the top of the pinnacle to the mainland. (Or, via CHERRY ON THE TOP.) Belay on top of pinnacle near the step across.

1. 7m 19 From step across follow the thin crack up the steep wall to ledge below YOU ASKED FOR IT. A loose block lurks on a ledge halfway up and must be stood on with caution.

Takes the break up the centre of the wall behind ISOLATION PINNACLE.

1. 15m 22 Climb up to and negotiate the relatively featureless corner (crux) before climbing the finger crack and continuation off-width crack in the dihedral above.

Start in gully behind pinnacle about 6m to left of standard Pinnacle Route i.e. halfway between CHERRY ON THE TOP and MAD PILOT, but on the pinnacle itself.

1. 27m 16 Chimney up to base of thin rightward leaning crack. Follow crack to overhang near top. At overhang move 1m right and follow layback flake and face above to very top of pinnacle. This is the only route that goes to the very top of the pinnacle.

Protection could be better.

Located on a south facing wall, between PINNACLE OVER HANG and CHERRY ON THE TOP.

1. 25m 15 Start at cairn 3m to the right of cairn marking PINNACLE OVERHANG. Climb up flake, move diagonally right upwards (thin) to base of vague crack for about 3m to small tree. Above tree move to the left and up to the top.

Notes:

1. On this climb, although the protection is far apart it is reasonably good.

2. On the Isle of Wight, "Nammit" means "Lunch".

The climb starts on the upstream (right hand) side of the pinnacle just to the right of a shallow cave at ground level.

1. 20m 13 Climb the blocks onto the face above and move up diagonally left around the corner to easy ground. Continue moving up and around to some boulders on a large ledge above a small tree.

2. 20m 19 Go straight up the wall with smallish holds to beneath the prominent overhang. Pull through the overhang on very small holds (crux). Continue straight up until you can step over a crack and up to the top.

This route goes up the front of Isolation Pinnacle at a tree 2m left from where the Frontal route starts.

1. 40m 19 Climb the steep rock and head diagonally right to the vague recess (the Frontal route climbs the jam crack to the left). Good climbing leads up the thin crack above. Step right at the top and continue up the slab above.

At the level of the start of ISOLATION PINNACLE walk right, passing cave to tree at corner.

1. 23m 17 Start climbing from large block platform 3m to the right of tree, up series of blocks to below main face. Diagonally left around corner up a slab to obvious crack on left hand side of frontal face. Ascend crack to tree belay. Crux.

2. 20m 10 Straight up sloping slab at bottom of first pinnacle and left around pinnacle. Ascend crack to top. Note: A previous frontal route is believed to have been opened by J. Langmore and party but no record is available.

Proceed 80m upstream from the meet point to where the ground rises to being about 5m above the stream bed. A large tree will be seen at the top of a 4m cliff to your left. Scramble up left, over easy rock and roots (usually wet) to the pinnacle, which is some 40m high. The front and downstream sides are undercut and the pinnacle stands 1,5m from the main kloof wall, forming a chimney. Both of the first pitches described below start at the downstream end of the pinnacle, where the pinnacle meets the main kloof wall.

1. 20m 11 Climb in the recess, make some awkward moves over the bulge and enter the neck between the kloof wall and the pinnacle atop some large blocks.

2. 20m 10 Climb the magnificent crack running up the back of the pinnacle to the summit. A superb pitch!

Notes:

1. Most people climb only the second pitch of this route, which is superb. To reach this, approach the pinnacle on the upstream side and enter the narrow gully/chimney. Continue until the obvious corner on the pinnacle is seen.

2. To descend, jump from the ledge on the upstream side to a ledge on the kloof wall. Traverse right to a tree in recess. Scramble to top or abseil down.

Variation:

1. 20m 11 Commence on the kloof wall downstream of the pinnacle (crux at start) and climb 20m to a stance behind a small tree.

2. 20m 10 Traverse right to the gap between the kloof wall and the pinnacle. Step down and cross the gap. Traverse right easily to two-thirds across the pinnacle and climb the steep rock to the summit.

The route takes the obvious crack line 1m downstream of the start of ISOLATION PINNACLE and follows this to the top.

1. 30m 13 Climb the crack, tricky to start, until forced onto the face to the left. Continue straight up to a comfortable belay stance on top.

Climb starts just downstream of ISOLATION PINNACLE. Scramble up little gully just left of the pinnacle. At base of rock face is a small pinnacle/buttress about 24m high. Use tree belay. Climb the upstream side of the pin, in obvious crack.

Note: A pleasant short climb.

The climb starts from a large balancing boulder at the first waterfall downstream from the Isolation Pinnacle gully and is on the same side (the true right).

1. 18m 11 Climb a few metres up some tree roots to a ledge. Traverse left to a substantial tree and belay. Climb steep face behind tree to large ledge.

2. 10m 7 Climb diagonally left into chimney which is directly above the cave between SLICKENSIDE WALL and THE PIN.

3. 14m 15,A1 Climb chimney 6m to the ceiling. Move round to right using a microwedge and sling for aid. This could probably be done free but a loose block would make this dangerous. Climb steep corner to ledge.

4. 12m 15 Climb the arete and face on the right side of the chimney using layback technique. Cross face 3m to right to exit crack. Climb crack.

Starts on the same ledge as GOOFPROOF ROOF, 15m to the right (small cairn).

1. 35m 18 Climb up onto block and move up steep wall on the left. Move right under overhangs, up onto a ledge. Awkward moves onto face above, and follow vague crack/ groove system on good holds to top.

Starts on same ledge as GOOFPROOF ROOF, 10m to the right of GOOFPROOF ROOF where the overhang is at its biggest (small cairn).

1. 15m 22 Jump for hand hold on wall on right, and pull up on jugs until face level with roof. A vague rail enables you to move left to very good jugs at the lip. A long snatch for holds high above the roof, followed by an easy open book above up to ledge with small tree belay. Scramble off up to the left at grade 17.

Note: A #1 friend is useful for protection at the lip of the roof.

Scramble up the watercourse above the lunch spot. Around the level of the tumbled blocks near the base of PHOENIX walk out along the clean red ledge on the true left hand side. Halfway along the ledge a break leads through the 2m roof.

1. 10m 20 Pull through the roof and climb the break.

A route up the centre of the wall, immediately opposite BLADE RUNNER.

1. 25m 23 Climb up the centre of the wall to gain the crack. Climb the crack exiting to a tree on the right.

This climb starts about 12m upstream of, and on the same side as LEMON starting on the ledge immediately below the first waterfall. The climb is 2m right of a leftward slanting open book, and follows a crack line, passing to the left of the top of the waterfall (tree and aloe at top of waterfall).

1. 20m 18 Climb the crack, and bulge, using hand jams and friction moves. Once above the bulge move right, and then continue up past the top of the waterfall to a tree belay.

Note: Protection is good.

The climb starts opposite LEMON, in the left hand corner of the large recess.

1. 20m 17 Belay to tree and climb straight up corner on thin holds. Use of the tree was found to be essential. Continue up till you can traverse to a good stance with a tree belay.

2. 10m 6 Scramble to top.

Note: Maximum crater potential, dangerous climb.

Start 5m left of HYDRA just before the head of the PHOENIX subkloof.

1. 20m 22 Climb the layback type crack, past a peg at 4m to a block (crux). Move slightly left and up onto easier rock ending just right of the large roof.

Note: This route was kindly prepared by S Kelsey. Perhaps "Steel" should read "Steal".

The gully above the lunch spot becomes a (dry) scoured waterfall just beyond LEMON (a chimney). BLADERUNNER climbs the thin double crack system up the steep grey wall between LEMON and the waterfall.

1. 20m 26 Step up right from a boulder and climb up to a roof (bolt). Follow the crack system to the second rail, then exit via the continuation of the left crack.

Note: Trust the bolts at your peril!

The direct finish to BLADERUNNER.

The climb is situated on the same side, in the same gully, as PHOENIX, about 10m before the gully is terminated by a waterfall.

1. 22m 13 Climb a strenuous overhanging chimney before moving out and up 12m past some small trees. Ascend the right hand of two cracks above to a broad grass ledge with a tree belay.

2. 25m 11 Traverse right under an orange overhang, round a corner, and diagonally right up a grey face for 18m. Where the overhang first breaks, ascend a 6m chimney on knobbly rock to the top.

Note: This forms a useful abseil route for climbs in the area.

1. same

2. 13 After passing the small trees mentioned in Pitch 1, follow a shallow open book on the left hand buttress to the top.

Takes the front of the buttress right of PHOENIX (with the wild fig tree in its centre). Start from a large boulder, directly below a right slanting ramp, on the left edge of this buttress.

1. 18m 17 Execute a strenuous pullup onto bottom of the ramp. Ascend ramp, tending rightwards. Tend right, cross thick fig root; climb up immediately right of this. Cross over to left to good block stance. (Belay on tree.)

2. 30m 13 Ascend directly above stance to small overhang; step rightwards for 2m into vertical crack. Follow crack and blocks to top. Block belay.

Climbs the dihedral and crack system on the arete to the right of PHOENIX i.e. the route is situated between VALKYRIE and TYKES DELIGHT.

1. 25m 23 Pull up onto the base of the arete (as for TYKES DELIGHT). Climb leftwards to gain the dihedral system and follow this to the top.

Climbs the face between FEAR OF FLYING and VALKYRIE.

1. 25m 27 Climb the face past the three bolts and exit diagonally right to join FEAR OF FLYING. Continue to the clouds.

Start 3m to the right of PHOENIX in open book with crack leading to ledge 9m up.

1. 9m 17 Climb handjam/layback crack to ledge under small overhang. (Stance shared with PHOENIX.)

2. 25m 20 Take off from right hand side of ledge in corner. Surmount overhang (crux) and continue straight up on small face. After this the grade eases to 14/15. Climb up in direct line with crux until forced left into corner with crack leading to top (4m to the right of PHOENIX). Climb crack and belay from small tree.

Scramble 30m up the watercourse opposite GROOTKLOOF GULLY. This brings one to a pile of tumbled blocks. On the left (looking up) is a steep right angled corner, about 40m in height. The climb is on the left hand wall of this corner. Start on the left of a rock pillar in the corner.

1. 35m 15 Ascend to the top of the pillar, where there is large block which can easily be made to rock. Climb the left wall of the corner passing to the right of a small stamvrug tree 9m up. Bear left, then ascend a steep grey face (some lichen) on slightly friable rock. About 6m above the stamvrug tree move diagonally right, until below a second, larger tree (crux). Pass this tree on its right and climb to top.

The route starts about 4m to the left of PHOENIX. It goes almost straight up the face and exits through the break in the skyline directly above.

1. 35m 17 Start in a small corner that faces PHOENIX. Climb up to a ledge and bush at 15m. Move left into a hidden chimney which leads to the top. The final off-width crack is avoided by pulling through on the right (crux).

Note: Protection at the roof is good.

1. 15m 19 Start in the same corner as for the normal start. Climb up to the right hand end of the roof, move left under the roof and pull through using crack and initially thin holds, good holds follow. Step right onto corner, and climb up diagonally leftwards, to a large ledge. Continue up hidden chimney as per the normal SPHINX route.

Start 3-4m left of SPHINX.

1. 15m 20 Move up steep rock to a roof, pull through and up diagonally left to stance below a chimney left of a off-width crack.

2. 15m 19 Move up and left onto wall. Pull through a succession of roofs in an exposed position to the top.

Immediately downstream of the PHOENIX/SPHINX face is a small right angled buttress which is bounded by two open books. The route ascends the rippled face to the right of the left hand open book. Start 17m left of PHOENIX and from the same ledge. There are two good trees close to one another at the start for belay purposes.

1. 20m 17 Ascend the rippled face (thin) staying close to the arete at the right extremity of the face to a small resting ledge. Step left onto the steep slab above. Climb up the slab diagonally rightwards to a small sloping nose on the arete, above which is a vague crack. On the opening ascent this nose was wet and tricky. Pull up the vague crack to a comfortable belay stance.

2. 10m 13 To one side of the belay stance is a large detached block. Climb the wall of the main buttress, behind this block, to the level of the short Dassie traverse. Hand traverse 2m to the right to gain the base of a narrow chimney. Make an awkward move over a loose chockstone at the base of the chimney (dangerous) and thrutch comfortably up to the top of the buttress.

Note: The slab and vague crack of pitch 1 are poorly protected.

1. 10m 25 Climb the wall with 2 bolts to the right of TRICK OF THE LIGHT.

Start 2.5m upstream of DIVEBOMBER, more or less opposite a tall tree.

1. 8m 26 Pull through the overhang at 2m and climb straight up the face above, finishing via a small left facing dihedral. A selection of small wires is handy.

The route provides highly technical and strenuous climbing. Start 1m downstream from the large tree opposite Grootkloof Gully.

1. 40m 21 Ascend the scooped, rippled face about 11m to cubbyhole. Delicate and strenuous, especially the last move into the cubbyhole at 21 (or 19 if tall). Continue straight up the wall above.

2. 9m 11 Ascend final tier on outer corner then up open book to right, past tree and to platform on block on right. Traverse back left into open book and ascend to overhang (PHOENIX final face is on the right), then traverse 5m left out of open book, around corner and up final 8m crack.

Note: Pitch 1 as described was first climbed on 24 Nov 1984 by G. Mallory and K.M. Smith. The original ascent made use of a top rope in the tree, and after the cubbyhole traversed right 3m, up easily for 3m, and then left for 12m at grade 15 to a tree in a crack which was followed to the ledge.

1. 15m 24 Climbs the wall to the left of DIVEBOMBER.

Takes the wall 3m to the left of DESPERATE BUT NOT SERIOUS.

1. 15m 25 Start beneath the bolt and climb straight up passing to the left of the peg. Pull directly through the bulge of the rightward curving crack and exit straight up. Follow easy rock to the top.

Start 6m left of DIVE BOMBER, at a tangle of roots and below a line of corners.

1. 15m 11 Climb roots for 3m. Traverse 3m left on narrow ledge to tree. Go up short knobbly wall on the right to belay ledge of DIVE BOMBER.

2. 15m 13 The corner above is overhung at its base and has a root running the full length. Climb the corner and gain a ledge. Scramble up blocks to tree belay. This is a continuation of the ledge from which PHOENIX begins.

3. 22m 13 Climb the crack and corner above, until a niche is gained below a large overhang. Traverse the wall on the left and go round onto the face. Up this to a belay. Scramble to top.

Climbs the wall to the right of RUNNING OUT OF LUCK.

Climb takes the corner and crack to right of prominent undercut buttress right of HEFFALUMP TRAP, virtually opposite KANGAROOF. Scramble up 15m to a bushy ledge and tree belay.

1. 20m 19 Traverse easily to below nose. Up cracks and corner to top of buttress. Left and up crack to tree belay.

Climbs the left hand side of the hanging buttress between RUNNING OUT OF LUCK and HEFFALUMP TRAP. Start as for the latter below a recess in the rock.

1. 20m 21 Climb the wall to the right of HEFFALUMP TRAP up to a large root. Use this to pull through the roof and follow the corner above past a peg to a ledge on top of the buttress.

The climb is situated on the same face as DIVE BOMBER and about 12m downstream of it. The face on which these two climbs are located is directly opposite the normal entrance into Grootkloof. About 6m downstream of the start of HEFFALUMP TRAP, the face breaks up right to form a large recessed gully. The climb starts opposite a large boulder in the stream, which forms a minor waterfall into a pool below. By stepping diagonally left from the boulder onto the face one is now over the small pool.

1. 15m 19 Step off the boulder left and up over easy rock to a large ledge which runs left into the corner of the face (3m 15). In the right hand corner of the ledge is an A-shaped cave recess which is topped by a small overhang. Climb this recess to its apex (5m 9), break out via a straddle and move up onto the ledge above the overhang (1,5m 21). Gain a few metres in height from the ledge and traverse by a series of undercut holds left (3m 17) and then up to a ledge (3m 17).

2. 12m 13 Ascend the face directly above via a crack and move right onto a ledge on top of the open book forming the right-hand edge of the belay stance (6m 11). Traverse to the right for (3m 9) and then ascend to a stance via a broken recess in the face (3m 10). Here one can continue to the top via an indifferent scramble, or traverse off right to the base of PHOENIX.

Note: The grade 21 move can be protected by means of a sling placed level with and to the right of it on a liana creeper. This involves some scrambling. A technically pleasing climb which is well protected.

Start on the large ledge at the beginning of the second pitch of CANDLEHORSE. Climbs the far right end of the steep red wall to the right of CANDLEHORSE.

1. 20m 27 Climb the wall following the bolts to a rail. Easier climbing leads to a ledge. Wander up the right to the top.

On the left of THE POWERS THAT BE.

1. 20m 28 Climb up the wall past the bolts to the top.

Start just to the right of A CHEVAL, at the large tree growing horizontally out into the kloof from the gully. This is about 20m below the main decent gully (GROOTHOEK GULLY).

1. 25m 18 Climb the face for about 4m, 2m left of the corner, and then swing right onto the corner below an overhanging crack just to the left of the corner. Climb this strenuously for 3m and then swing right around the corner along a horizontal break. Traverse right for 5m and then climb a crack system leading to an open book topped by an overhang. (Later section is common with pitch 2 of HEFFALUMP TRAP.) Move right at the overhang to a small tree and climb up steeply on good holds via a broken recess to a large ledge. Walk around left into gully and scramble up to a tree below a prominent steep recessed crack in the right hand wall.

2. 30m 20 Climb the crack to the top. Crux at the overhang about 20m up.

Note: A more direct finish to pitch 1 may be climbed by moving left at the overhang on HEFFALUMP TRAP rather than moving right.

Climbs the arete avoided by the first pitch of CANDLEHORSE.

1. 20m 19 Start just above stream level in a short dark corner. Climb the corner and exit right and up to CANDLEHORSE's horizontal break. Climb up the arete on it's left hand side finally moving on to the front to finish up to a ledge.

Climbs the steep wall to the left of the top pitch of CANDLEHORSE.

1. 25m 23 Climb past a few ledges to below a steep face split by a few cracks. Climb up the face and diagonally right to a ledge on the right arete of CANDLEHORSE. Move back left and jug haul to the top.

Start about 9m up gully (which has a cave higher up) opposite EN PASSANT.

1. 15m 14 Start by climbing a narrow crack. Then follow open book which changes into crack again. Stance at big ledge. Walk 9m to right.

2. 11m 8 Ascend external corner. Alternatively, go right onto easier face veering into gully.

3. 9m 8 Traverse left onto edge. Move left around corner. Step up. Climb up edge or on slab in chimney to the left. Move into crack and then pull up to stance.

4. 15m 13 Left on sloping slab to edge. Then move up and left onto ledge. From here continue up an open book, or mantleshelf to left of open book. Then ascend steep narrow crack. Finish by passing up between large blocks.

Note: Pitch 1 may cause problems for shorter people. It is possible to "escape" to the right at the top of each pitch.

1. 10m 19 Start 5m right of normal start behind a large tree. Ascend the shattered shallow corner in the right wall to ledge and piton belay 10. Then make a very difficult move up the crack behind and mantle shelf up left to a ledge, (3m 19). Move left and scramble to the big ledge which is the top of the normal first pitch.

Start in the cave left of A CHEVAL.

1. 15m 13,A1 From deep inside the cave straddle up the chimney to the overhangs at the roof of the cave. (Loose rock can be easily avoided.) Use a nut runner as aid to enable one to exit to the ledge on the right. Chockstone belay. The pitch may be wet, in which case it will be harder.

2. 20m 5 Scramble up gully to tree belay at the base of a broad setback buttress, broken by an overhang 12m up.

3. 17m 15 From tree belay climb left side of projecting buttress for 9m inclining slightly right to gain horizontal ledge 3m below overhang (steep and poorly protected). Traverse right to corner of buttress and belay in gully.

4. 17m 13 Ascend just to right of the corner of the buttress for 9m to prominent horizontal crack line. Traverse left onto the exposed buttress for 5m to a vertical crack. Ascend this and continue up centre of buttress to top of pinnacle.

Note: If wet, pitch 1 may be avoided by climbing the first pitch of A CHEVAL.

Starts on the corner of the gully directly opposite A CHEVAL.

1. 20m 8 Climb face and corner to ledge.

2. 15m 10 Continue up corner to second ledge.

3. 15m 15 Climb 6m up middle of orange face. Traverse left 4m to crack. Climb 2m to overhang and place sling on chockstone. Move 1m around corner and climb corner to top.

Variations: 2a. 15m 18 Climb right hand crack using jams to move through bulge. 2b. 15m 17 Start 5m to left of usual pitch, move up crack 3m, right 2m and follow off-width crack to top. (2 Aug 1986 S. Middlemiss and A. Margetts)

Commences about 15m downstream of RAF CHINK below a prominent cave.

1. 9m 7 Start over stream and proceed up to cave.

2. 18m 7 Continue up right-hand side of cave in corner. A grade 13 variation starts to the left of cave and traverses over roof of cave.

3. 15m 7 Chimney immediately above second pitch.

The climb is about 9m downstream of CAVE CRAG.

1. 25m 5 Follow obvious break which slopes slightly left, to big ledge. Walk 11m along ledge to left to clean red face.

2. 22m 17 Starting below hanging boulder, climb right hand crack (hard) for 11m, traverse around ridge to left hand crack, climb recess and, after turning overhang, proceed to ledge.

3. 9m 8 Climb obvious crack above stance to top.

share pitch 1

The route starts form the same point as CATHEDRAL WALL at a tree in the second recess downstream from Walking Gully. Traverse from Walking Gully along a sloping ledge for 18m then 3m up into the recess (7). (Precarious when wet, a rope is recommended).

1. 35m 19 Directly above the stance the recess overhangs. Climb the left wall for 6m to a small ledge. Move right and up for 3m to the overhang. Ascend the overhang (crux) and continue up the groove for 5m. At the top, move left to a ledge and descend diagonally left on a ramp then an awkward step away from the crack and across to a tree (crossing CATHEDRAL WALL). Continue down leftwards to another tree in a corner crack (6m).

2. 35m 17 From the tree move up the left face for 6m to a ledge then diagonally right to the base of the overhanging crack. Surmount the overhang to a sloping ledge and continue up the crack and out left then 5m to the top.

The climb is in the lower part of the kloof, about 18m downstream of Walking Gully. To reach the start, scramble down kloof along a ramp on the right hand wall. (When wet, this ramp can be precarious and a rope is recommended.) The ramp commences at the point where Walking Gully enters and it passes about 6m above the pool, which is just downstream of the junction of the gully and kloof. The start of the climb is at a tree a little way up the second recess which is reached via the ramp.

1. 25m 17 Traverse 4m left across a steep face with small grips into a shallow recess. Ascend the recess for about 9m keeping to the right hand side until it is possible to traverse left onto easier rock. Ascend past tree with a slender trunk to stance in cave. The section just below the cave is again difficult.

2. 28m 17 There is only one way up from the cave, via a forbidding looking overhanging crack. The crack is climbed by judicious use of legs, arms and shoulders. The crack gives way higher up to an open book which is followed to the top.

Note: The walls of the kloof in this area are steep and unbroken. The climb therefore maintains a good standard and is strenuous.

The climb takes the recess 40 to 50m downstream of the common start of TRESPASSERS W and CATHEDRAL WALL. It is the first feasible line downstream of these routes. If approached from upstream, it is necessary to wade to reach the start.

1. 8m 15 From the top of a cairn in the stream bed reach for some high holds on the face and ascend recess to tree. (It may be necessary to construct your own cairn, and if the start is wet, a shoulder may be preferable).

2. 20m 17 Continue up recess and through overhang to large stance above overhang.

3. 30m 13 Move diagonally left up face to left of stance and then up easier rock to top.

This climb is situated at the junction of Grootkloof and Kleinkloof, at the right hand side of Kleinkloof as you turn into Grootkloof a short wall is found which leads up to a steeper wall. Start the climb about 5m to the left of long thin ledge about 1.5m up leading left to a tree in a crack.

1. 30m 14 Climb the initial face using a handjam in a good sloping crack (difficult move off ground), continue up to wide grassy ledge. Move up face following break to small ledge. Move slightly right wards up an off-width crack, continue up a series of blocks to final wall. Climb up final short wall with a tree to the left.

Note: A pleasant climb ruined by ledge at third height.

HEADLONG 16 ** Approaching GROOTKLOOF from the YSTERHOUTKLOOF side, move down Easy Gully towards the top of GROOTKLOOF. Just before reaching GROOTKLOOF proper, on the left is an off-width crack moving up and slightly leftwards. The route takes this off-width and the fainter crack above the wide ledge above. (cairn)

1. 18m 16 Start up the off-width crack, thin to start. Move past the chockstone (appears solid) into the wider crack above. Stay on the outside and climb up to the cubbyhole under the roof. Exit using the off-width crack on the right.

2. 25m 13 Move across the grassy ledge to reach base of the continuation crack above. Climb this until forced left up the obvious ramp to its top. Move diagonally up to the right to regain the original crack line and exit to the right to a comfortable stance. Scramble to the top.

On the opposite side of the kloof to PYRAMID and 25m downstream the wall of the kloof bulges into the kloof. Just upstream of this there are two large trees in the middle of the kloof. One of them leans right back across the kloof touching the bulge and the recessed crack which the route follows. Large chockstone belay.

1. 30m 11 Climb the recessed crack which narrows to chimney width for 21m where there is a large balanced block on the left. Move onto this block and climb face to ledge. Good tree belay to the right.

2. 26m 8 From the centre of the ridge directly above, climb diagonally left to tree. Climb up corner for 5m then climb diagonally right up exposed face to top.

About 15m upstream from LOVER'S LEAP a large buttress projects into the kloof. The climb starts in a shallow recess 5m upstream from this buttress.

1. 22m 8 Climb the recess to a grassy ledge.

2. 18m 11 Climb a series of ledges directly above, before moving up slightly right on a steep face with good holds.

The climb is situated about 70m downstream of PYRAMID on the opposite side of the kloof. There is an island of about 5 large boulders in the centre of the stream with 3 thin trees growing out of it. On the left hand wall, looking downstream, are 2 large recesses. The route starts on the face between the two.

1. 34m 17,A1 Climb the face for 3m, move left slightly and then up 6m to a handrail. Stretch right and pull up onto a good ledge. Traverse 9m right to the right hand recess mentioned earlier. Ascend 2m to a small tree and move out right on delicate holds. (Crux). A peg was used here for balance. Traverse 1,5m under a prow and climb diagonally right up past a few aloes to a broad ledge.

2. 34m 13 Walk 15m left to a buttress forming the right hand edge of a large open book. Ascend a crack in the middle of the buttress for 6m to an overhang. Move left onto the right hand face of the open book, ascend 2m and then move back on small holds onto the buttress. A further 22m of grade 10 leads to the summit.

Note: The traverse into the open book on the second pitch can be avoided by a strenuous pullup through the overhang.

The climb has as its objective the deep chimney high up and directly opposite THE PIN. The route starts in the deep recess immediately downstream of the large waterfall below the scramble up to the start of CHERRY ON THE TOP.

1. 25m 12 Climb the grey recess to the tree in the gully at the level of a large grassy ledge. Walk along the ledge downstream for approximately 25m to the base of the deep chimney. Beware of loose choss at the top of this pitch.

2. 26m 12 Climb the chimney in classical style until able to stem. Climb up to a large ledge below the final roof.

3. 10m 12 Traverse on the wall to the right for 2m to reach the base of the crack above. Pull up this and climb the very narrow chimney to a comfortable belay stance on top.

Starts 30m upstream of the meet spot on the opposite side. Scramble up 10m to ledge with large pillar feature at base of rock.

1. 25m 19 Climb up just to the left of the pillar. Move up past a steep nose/block using a jam crack on the right to a small ledge. Technical climbing up the corner to a rail 3m below the big roof. Rail right onto the arete and up to the ledge. Climb straight up steep rock past aloes on the left to the top.

The start of this climb is on top of the earth bank immediately opposite the large block above the meeting place. Start at base of chimney.

1. 12m 8 Climb the left hand recess into the chimney, avoiding some loose rock halfway up. Stance in large yellow recess.

2. 22m 9 Climb over nose on left corner of recess (delicate) and diagonally up to the left to a large grassy ledge.

3. 9m 8 Climb the centre of an inclined face immediately above the ledge.

Notes:

1. Easier variations to left can be made for each pitch.

2. Extreme care should be taken not to dislodge rocks as they tend to fall onto the meeting place.

This climb starts 1m left of IN DIRE NEED.

1. 15m 18 Climb the recess. When you reach the overhang rail left for 5m onto a nose. Climb easy ground to a good ledge.

Climbs a steep corner one to two metres to the left of A MOMENTARY LAPSE IN REASON.

1. 25m 21 Climb up slightly left of the corner then traverse rightward across a slab to gain the base of the corner. Climb the corner to a small ledge. Move about 1m right, climb up for 23m and then climb diagonally right to a good ledge in a cubbyhole. (Shared with A MOMENTARY LAPSE IN REASON)

This route is found on the true left of the kloof in line with the normal meet site. Scramble up a short slope to a large soil covered ledge. Move left to below a steep buttress. The route follows a line through a small overhang and then rightward into a corner.

1. 25m 20 Climb an overhang (crux micronuts for protection) moving right into a corner. Continue up to a small stance. Then move right and climb a wide crack (off width) up the left side of a pillar. Continue up to a good stance in a small cubbyhole.

2. 20m 16 Climb the face on the left side of the cubbyhole to a crack system. Continue up on easy rock to a good stance. Scramble off to the right.

Notes:

1. After the first pitch it is possible to scramble off to the right of the climb.

2. On the opening ascent the leader held onto a small, dead tree whilst doing the crux. The tree broke when weight was placed on it causing a leader lob, hence the name of the climb.

Climbs the attractive crack 2m to the right of A MOMENTARY LAPSE IN REASON.

1. 25m 16 Climb the crack following in the small open book to a small stance. Continue up on the right side of a pillar to the cubbyhole stance shared with A MOMENTARY LAPSE IN REASON.

Note: Well protected, good climbing. Scramble off to the right of the climb.

This climb starts on the true left hand side of the kloof directly opposite the normal meet site. Scramble up onto a higher grass ledge. A crack line passing through two overhangs marks the first pitch.

1. 20m 18 Climb directly up to the first overhang, which is passed on the left. Continue up to the second overhang, pull through this (crux) and climb up to a good ledge.

2. 15m 13 Move up and then left past a bush. Climb rightward up to a crack. Follow this crack to a good ledge. Scramble to the top of the crag.

From the normal gathering point at the bottom of GROOTKLOOF GULLY walk up the gully for 3m. Traverse left and then diagonally upwards about 9m (still walking). The climb starts at the bottom of a low open book recess. There is a small cubbyhole at the bottom of this recess (a larger overhanging recess is to the left).

1. 15m 7 Climb the open book about 4m and move right and upwards around a steep section onto an easy ridge of large steps and trees to stance below next face.

2. 12m 5 Ascend grey rock, bearing right to avoid steep red face, onto sloping grass ledge 9m wide.

3. 14m 7 Climb 3m in a corner, then traverse left over the top of a square block to a corner about 2,5m away. Ascend the recess, where there is one harder move, and continue up and slightly right to a small platform with a tree as belay.

4. 8m 7 Move to the left into a gully and climb up the side under the tree, traversing to the right over stance at end of previous pitch, continue up through a break, move to right under steep rocks and cross over top of chimney to finish of climb at a point where a small gully gives a walking route to the top of the kloof.

The climb is located on the true right of the main descent gully and begins just below the position where one encounters a difficult move past a large boulder lodged in the corner. The climb ascends a crack surrounded by roots.

1. 20m 15 Climb the crack (and face) to the right of the face covered with roots. Continue up the crack using the roots as holds. Move right near the top and climb up to a good ledge.

2. 10m 8 Scramble rightward past bushes to a ledge below an overhanging corner.

3. 25m 15 Climb the chimney/crack system moving leftward over a slab near the top in order to avoid a large bush.

This climb ascends the true right hand wall of the descent gully. It starts just before the 1st steep step encountered while descending the gully. The first pitch is marked by a steep face capped by an overhang with a "V" shaped groove.

1. 20m 15 Climb up the face moving left to a small stance. Move up to the overhang and then right for 1m to a small open book. Ascend the open book to a good ledge. Traverse right about 6m past a tree and then ascend the corner to a ledge.

2. 20m 15 Climb the attractive corner above moving right near the top. Step left across the top of the corner. Move left to another recess and ascend this to the top. Scramble up to the top of the crag.

Variation:

1. instead of traversing right 1m below the overhang, traverse further right and climb easily to the ledge.

Takes the reddish overhanging wall halfway down the descent gully. Three bolts.

1. 15m 25 Climb up to the hand rail and go left. Climb up to below the small roof and pull through on the right. Continue to the top.

This climb is located on the true right of the normal descent gully and ascends an obvious corner crack about 20-30m down from the top of the gully. The start is located just before a very steep wall capped with grass tufts on the true right side of the descent gully. The climb starts on the right hand side of the overhanging face.

1. 15m 15 Climb up the crack recess tending left until able to step onto a bulge near the top. Ascend easier rock to the top of the crag.

This climb is located on the true right of the normal descent gully and begins about 2m from the top of the gully. The start is marked by a steep face leading to small cubbyhole with a tree and crack above.

1. 15m 21 Ascend the middle of the steep face up to the small cubby hole with a tree. Continue up the crack to the top of the crag.

This gully is the most convenient route of access to the general climbing area from the north.

This climb ascends a slab on the true left of the normal descent gully. Traverse left from the top of the normal descent gully. Climb the steep slab with an overlap at its base and a grassy crack up its middle.

1. 15m 19 Climb the face up to the overlap to where the crack cuts the face. Ascend the overlap and continue up the face to finish on the same ledge as CENTURY CHIMNEY.

Notes:

1. The crack on the slab was only cleaned to facilitate protection; if the crack was cleaned more extensively the climb might become easier.

2. A short pleasant climb to finish the day off.

Situated at the bottom left of the descent ramp on the right hand side of the cavelike recess. The most dominant feature of the climb is the smooth, slightly off vertical slab at the top. The climb goes more or less straight up the centre of the broken face below the largest roof, through the roof and up the slab above. The line is marked by two bolts. Start directly under the first bolt.

1. 25m 21 Climb easily up to below a small roof. Moving slightly right make an off balance move to a good jug then pull through the roof to a hands off rest. Move diagonally left below the main roof to a good friend rail. Pull through the roof, clipping the bolt on the way, and gain a sloping grip. Make strenuous moves to the right, past the bolt, and then up to a rest on a small ledge. Climb up the centre of the slab to the grassy ledge.

Note: Excellent climbing with good protection.

This climb starts about 10m upstream and around the corner from 5 O'CLOCK RUSH. The route starts directly below (23m) a small ledge (about 10 cm sq) projecting from the face.

1. 15m 16 Climb the face past a small ledge. Continue up past a large block using layback moves on the right side of the block. Continue up and rightwards to a tree (part of 5 O'CLOCK RUSH) traverse right to a good exposed ledge.

2. 12m 14 Traverse 23m rightwards to the arete, climb the arete to a broad ledge (protection sparse).

3. 22m 17 From the top of pitch 2 walk rightwards to the base of an open book with two trees in it. Climb past the trees moving slightly rightwards into a prominent narrow open book, climb the open book (crux) and continue up a crack through the final bulge, scramble off the ledge leftwards.

Climb starts in Grootkloof descent gully near the start of CENTURY CRACK.

1. 12m 13 Ascend thin face for 6m to overhang. Hand traverse 2m to the left and continue a further 3m left to an open book. Ascend open book 2m to tree. (A large ledge may be reached by climbing a few metres higher).

2. 12m 10 Ascend layback crack 4m to the top of a small pinnacle. Move up 2m into chimney. Ascend chimney for 5m then move out onto face. Climb face for 2.5m to large ledge.

3. 9m 8 Ascend knife edge ridge to the top.

Climbs the overhang avoided by CENTURY CRAG. Start at the base of the buttress immediately downstream of GROOTKLOOF GULLY i.e. directly opposite HEFFALUMP TRAP.

1. 20m 21 Climb easy grey rock to beneath the right hand side of the roof. Negotiate the roof at the point it is cut by a finger crack, and continue up to a ledge.

From 20m to 40m below GROOTKLOOF GULLY the upper half of the kloof is well set back. CENTURY CRAG is situated on the buttress which is thus formed by GROOTKLOOF GULLY on the upstream side and the setback on the downstream side. Start at the base of this buttress. Ascend up to overhang and then traverse right and continue up the right hand flank of the buttress. A difficult right angled open book is negotiated here. Continue on bearing right until the tree belay at the base of the chimney pitch of CENTURY CHIMNEY is reached. Traverse left onto the front of the buttress and continue as directly as possible to the top.

This route starts downstream and around the corner from KANGAROOF. A short scramble up a gully to a cave leads to a steep face on the left (looking inwards). Two open books are seen. A prominent one on the left side and a shallow one on the right. This route starts up the shallow right hand open book.

1. 20m 19 Climb up easy rock to the base of the open book. Continue up the open book to the bulge. Move up past the bulge (crux) to a good ledge.

2. 45m 17 Move rightwards and upwards from the ledge to the base of a crack system. Climb the crack past a rail moving leftwards near the top. Continue up easier rock past two trees moving rightwards into another open book. Climb this open book to a ledge and belay.

Notes:

1. Good clean climbing, mainly on first pitch.

2. One may scramble off at various places on the second pitch.

3. The top part of TEN O'CLOCK CRAWL's third pitch is shared with this climb.

On the downstream side of the buttress in which CENTURY CRAG is located is a deep chimney formed by the buttress and the main (set back) wall. The bottom of the chimney is about halfway up the face. To reach this point climb up the easy rock and slopes on the immediate right of the buttress. The chimney is 28m long. It requires exertion and a slender figure. The first 12m are hardest. The climb is enhanced by climbing the CENTURY CRAG route as far as the bottom of the chimney.

Start below a steep shallow recess, about 5m left of the large flake on the traverse near the start of EN PASSANT, and leading up to the right hand end of the deep chimney of CENTURY CHIMNEY.

1. 30m 20 Climb the recess, pulling outwards on a nut to overcome a steep section about 8m up, to a resting place just inside the chimney. Climb the chimney to the top.

Takes the huge off-width roof crack from the rest ledge of 20TH CENTURY.

1. 15m 23 Climb the roof using the crack in the most imaginative way possible.

The route takes the left hand crack in the broad recess 3m right of 20TH CENTURY, and therefore left of EN PASSENT.

1. 35m 20,A1 Climb up past a small tree to a cubbyhole below the recess's overhang. Then move left onto the face, and follow the crack line to about 2m below the main roof. Traverse 4m right using one point of aid (peg in place) to the broken recess, and ascend this to the right hand end of the roof. Climb the rightward slanting groove (on the right), followed by an open book, to the top.

Note: At the cubbyhole and the top of the crack, there is some loose sounding rock.

Start 3m to right of STREETWALKER i.e. 8m to right of 20TH CENTURY.

1. 25m 15 Starting from ledge at top of block, climb right hand crack, joining STREETWALK at 15m. Continue to top.

The route takes the blank looking wall between STREETWALKER and EN PASSANT. Start behind the large flake, with chockstone, on the EN PASSANT traverse.

1. 15m 21 Chimney to the top of the flake and take off from its upstream end. Follow the crack (crux) to a good rest. From this ledge climb past the rails to the small ledge on the route STREETWALKER under the overhanging wall where a stance can be taken.

2. 15m 13 Follow the rightward slanting groove of STREETWALKER to the top.

Note: Climbing on the crux is bold. Excellent thin face climbing.

Start at the bottom of the CENTURY CHIMNEY this point can reached by some scrambling which may require use of a rope near the bottom.

1. 15m 7 Traverse right behind large flake to corner or recess which is at the downstream end of the setback face (see CENTURY CRAG).

2. 35m 9 Ascend the corner until an overhang at the top is reached. Traverse right to bypass this and continue the remaining few metres to the top.

Climb the crack immediately left of the upper section of CHAMELEON CRACK. Start from the righthand end of the large grassy ledge from which EN PASSANT begins.

1. 30m 17 Follow the crack until it steepens, step right and climb back left to continue diagonally left to avoid the overhangs above. Climb easy rock to the top.