★★★ More Monkey Than Funky 21

The route climbs the frontal arete on 'Red Column' and finishes spectacularly through a 2m roof (which is prominent on the upper skyline, especially when viewed from downstream). Scramble up grassy slopes to the highest ledge in the large grey open book at the base of 'Red Column', directly below the final roof.

1. [20] 25m

   Climb the open book to a large cammed block a few meters beneath its top. Traverse 2m left and make tricky moves to gain a hidden ledge a few meters higher. Pull-up on the right and continue up and slightly right over steep, juggy rock to reach a ledge (stance at top of Pitch 3 of 'Red Column') about 15m below the final flat roof.

2. [21] 20m

   Climb the steep orange wall just to the right of the arête to a rest beneath the roof. Engage mind in reverse and pull through the roof using the crack splitting the lip. Stagger up to the summit.

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.