★★ Butterfly 17

The route aims for a crack running up the centre of a large butterfly shaped buttress.

Frog Face climbs the left edge of a large recess. Downstream of the recess is a buttress at the top of which is a crack and the faces on either side of the crack form a very obtuse angle. The crack and the faces resembles a butterfly's body and wings. Easily scramble up the right hand side of the large recess. The climb starts about 15m up from the stream.

1. 40m (11) Climb up in the direction of the butterfly going up diagonally to the right. Below the butterfly is a crack that faces downstream at the bottom, climb up this and belay a few meters below the butterfly.

2. 15m (17) Ascend the crack up centre of the butterfly. About half-way up the butterfly, traverse left 2m and climb out towards the left of the butterfly.

Bolting is prohibited.