★★ MUTTERED MAGIC 19

At the left extremity of the amphitheatre above the second weir is a grey face neatly bisected by a vertical crack. The face does not come down to ground level. The route starts in the black overhanging open book below the face and tends diagonally rightwards ending through the pronounced curved off-width crack near the top.

1. 34m 19 Ascend the overhanging open book on jams into the recess above (5m). Move right of the small overhang into another open book. Ascend to a point underneath the roof above. Break right onto the adjacent face and ascend this to gain the base of the off-width crack. Thrutch awkwardly up the crack until the top of the shield can be reached. Swing right onto the face and mantle onto the top of the shield. From its right-hand extremity pull up onto the big belay ledge. Scramble off.

Note: Protection is good on this pleasing route.

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.