★★★ Jack O' Spades 17

The climb takes the line of a great fault which splits the krantz virtually from top to bottom.

1. 20m 15 From the base of the fault climb up into a short chimney and straddle past the crux of this pitch to a cubby hole. Move out right, across and under a tree and up to a ledge. Belay. (This pitch is a 'technical' 15.)

2. 25m 17 Climb up an awkward corner and continue up, straddling the crack. A neat move partially using the left wall and the edge of the crack can be made to gain a small ledge below a shallow chimney. Bridge this until able to pull over left to a wall. Climb up using good holds to the top of a block. Belay

3. 15m 10 Continue up a shallow V-shaped recess above (instead of moving left into a bushy gully) to easy rock.

Note: A high quality climb on excellent rock.

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.