Routes in Mpumalanga for selected grade

The excellent open book closes to the waterfall, has chains. Awaits a retro bolt.

6m right of the fence (right of 'Train Massacre'). Up to a break, up face, out left onto a slab, out right (#1 rock behind flake) up to roof, traverse right and up to a ledge. Ab off tree 15m right.

4m right of 'Topless Skateboard Nun'. Up orange face moving right to ledges and up a big shallow corner (crux) to grassy ledge. Finish up crack on right. Rather gearless!

Variation of WELL OILED MACHINE - replace pitches 4&5, keep 1-3 and 6-7 common

Located in the 'room' behind Happy Acres Boulder. Start below the large open book on the boulder. Climb past a roof to a ledge at 5m. Traverse 2m left and up the diagonal crack, to exit past hollow flakes.

5m left of 'Bamboozled'. Climb corner into the roof. Swing left onto block and up.

Climb the corner and up a short v-groove to the top. Route may be retrobolted.

About 50-60m along right from the descent gulley is a shallow corner. Just left is a fine looking crack. Climb the crack.

Corner crack situated at the bottom of the pillar gully, just before 2m high roof. Kick things off by trust falling across the gap between the pedestal and wall to gain access to the corner crack. Bust through a small roof and continue up the widening crack to the top. Lekker climbing with good protection throughout!

The shallow corner. Route has been retro-bolted - see 'Wysiwyg' description.

Starts 15m left of 'Follow The light'. Climb short overhanging crack. Step 1m right and pull through roof. Climb slab tending slightly left to good abseil tree. (Intricate gear placements).

A rippled face with a chimney crack just right of it is found. Climb the face to a rail. Traverse right into the chimney onto a ledge. Climb straight up close to the right edge of the ledge on powerful moves. Continue through the overlap to a ledge then head for the tallest headwall of the crag. The route is 45m long and can be done in 2 pitches.

Steep leftward facing crack line. Tree at base in the way of starting moves. Use extra rope to pull tree back to leave unharmed. Follow obvious left tending crack. Insane. Insane. Busts to the ledge above and then up right and out to a lower-off tree. Permission has been given to retro-bolt.

Unbelievable. 30m right of 'Scrabble'. Climb the crack on the steep wall 5m left of an arête till under the roof. Step out left then back onto the headwall keeping right of the tree. Possible to make a stance here, or continue on easier ground to the top.

Climbs the wall 10 - 20m left of 'Incidentally I'm Macho'. This route climbs a thin (#1 Rock) size crack up the wall. Traverse left at top to avoid vegetation.

This route follows a line between Groovy and Dirt bag groove. Start at the same spot as “Snakeskin Arête” but instead of climbing diagonally right, head left up the obvious ramp below the huge roof that is about 60 meters up.

1. 55m, 15 Climb the corner of the ramp until forced out left by the steeper ground and some poor looking rock. Head diagonally left towards the arête and take a stance on the arête at some blocks.

2. 25m, 19 Traverse back into the corner then out on the face to the crack that goes up to the bulge. Climb the crack to below the bulge then traverse right on big flat edges and step down onto the arête. Step across the open book and climb that to the ledge.

3. 55 m, 17 Climb the layback crack and then step right onto the arête. Climb diagonally left to below big corner that turns into a chimney higher up. Climb to below the chimney then traverse left onto the face. Climb the face to the top.

Note: Third pitch is brilliant exposed climbing. Would be worthwhile to try and go through the bulge. There is good gear. It will be hard though.

Starts to the right of 'Dr Evil' on the corner. A unique vertical crack set making its way to the anchor tree makes for phenomenal climbing.

50m from Narrow Gully. Start on the right hand side of a large roof at 2.5m. Climb the immaculate finger crack behind a yellowwood. Step right at the top of the crack to finish up a smooth looking face.

Starts right of a little tree growing out of a crack one meter above the ground. Follows the crack lines left past the roof following the offwidth. Still needs cleaning.

Start 2m right of 'Excuse Me While I Kiss the Sky'

The left route. A wide variety of unusual moves.

1. [18] XXm

   This ledge can be used to climb all pitches above – 2 extra bolts lead leftward back to 'Sonny Boy'. The ledge can be accessed more easily at ~ grade 11 by starting up 'Sonny Boy' then heading right after the 4th bolt – to practice 2 pitch climbing. [7D]

2. [19] XXm

   From the belay, go diagonally right up the slab. This steepens below a corner, which is followed up to the anchors. The 2 pitches can easily be done as one [16D]

Climbs up to the prominent roof crack after the gulley.

20? From the belay, go diagonally right up the slab. This steepens below a corner, which is followed up to the anchors. The 2 pitches can easily be done as one [16D].

Just left of 'I.M.O. Julius'. Route name on first bolt.

Uses unusual holds up the pockmarked line left of the arête.

Start up 'Walking on Sunshine' curving crack at the multi-stemmed tree for 4m, then right through the rooflet, and straight up to anchors.

Starts just right of 'Devil's Concubine' up a vague corner. Pull the overlap and continue up the slab above to chains.

Starts in the corner right of the arête. After clipping the 2nd bolt, rail left just around the corner. Up to lower-offs.

Starts 2m up the gulley. Climb to lower-offs.

Climb 2m right of the last route to the same lower-offs.

Climbs the fine line on the Northern face of the North Tower.

The run-out slightly on angle route after the buttress. A head game, first opened on trad with 3 pieces.

Goes up the orange-grey slab 5m left of the detached pillar.

The fierce-looking handcrack. Harder for midgets.

Situated on a freestanding pillar about 50m right of 'Who's Your Daddy?' Start from the path and climb the steep left arête.

A nice long warm-up!? One of best 19‟s in Boven.

Starts between two trees. Climb 5m right of 'New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch', at a fig tree. Looks way too steep and blank for this grade, but be assured that excellent holds appear - especially just after the crux, where there seems to be a bit of a run-out. When the going gets tough, just keep cranking! Anchors are 2 large glue ins without chains, large enough to fit easily rope and biners.

Start between the 17 and 18 route traverses accrosse the main face to belay stance over the bulge second pitch finishes off on chains of Under my Wing

2m right of 'Drop Kicked' . Up the cracks to under the roofs and out left. Slightly run out! Do not fumble on the second or third clips.

Since being bolted this route has become very popular and must be a contender for one of the best easy climbs in Boven. After the 3rd bolt, move left then up and up; sustained. A 60 m rope is needed.

Climb the corner into chimney onto the face. Either love it or hate it!

The obvious undercut open book. It looks harder than it climbs. Takes good gear. This and other climbs here are in shade from noon in the summer. Opened on trad

Follows the line through the small roof. The route is long, tie a knot in the end of your rope.

Starts in the middle of the face about 2m left of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Trend leftwards to the arête and then follow break rightwards to the top.

Climbs the front nose of the buttress 5m right of 'Als Bells'. Climbs diagonally up left past the loose looking “big guy” and onto the face. Opened on trad

A short route to the left of Zohan. Best to clean the route on abseil. There is a lot of rope abrasion so best not to top rope this route. Bolted on lead.

Start as for 'Doom', but stay to the right of the bolts, straight up the face all the way to the top. This route shares the bolts and chains with 'Doom'.

Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors.

Follow the base of the crag all the way left and around the corner ±50m past 'Wussy Ladder' Super fun sustained climbing it gets flakey at the top.

Climbs the off-width crack that starts ±25m up the route The route can be climbed in two pitches or you can make it back to the ground with an 80m rope. Make sure to tie a knot in the other end. If you climb it in one go don't clip into the lower-offs as this creates a lot of rope drag.

Climb the thin crack up the shallow recess, and then the crack above to the top. This climb was first opened on trad.

Balancy start with a slight kick before you go into some easier climbing to the chains. Easier if you use the tree.

Takes the line immediately right of 'Fat Annie', starting behind the bush. It is to the left of 'The One That Got Away'.

“Tanning naked.” Start on a tricky slab, mantle then follow a right trending ramp to join the arête. Nice moves and views take you to the top.

Just right of 'Gravy Train'. Start on the face and quickly gain the arête. Play music on the scary detached stack. (Much easier around the arête for a few meter, but take care of the rope). Finishes on the original face.

The best route at the crag, climbs a blunt arête feature. Step left at the top.

Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up.

Climb the cool corner. Harder for midgets. Use this route to ab in.

Rap down 5m right of the previous routes, some 15m from the big corner, to a belay above the roof or aid up to the stance using the 3 bolts under the overlap.

Climb the flakey break 5m left of the arête . Step left and climb straight up to the break in the vegetation. One of the top 19's at Boven.

On the main face across from the bridge 3m right of FTSOI. Rap down to hanging belay. Short but pumpy for the grade. Crank the small roof with funky moves. Balancy.

Route with power start, 3m right of the arête. Burly.