Routes in South Africa for selected grade

Start on the ramp below the left hand ar6te of the Main Wall. Climb the arête, exiting on the left higher up to finish on great jugs.

This climb starts about 50m upstream of 'Late Breeze' on the left-hand side of a prominent overhang.

1. 30m 19 Climb the ridge to the right of the prominent overhang. Keeping on the ridge move up until a traverse up left past a crack system is made into the prominent open book with large tree in It. Climb the open book past the tree up to the overhang with the crack running through it. Surmount the overhang (crux) and continue up to a good ledge.

2. 30m 17 Climb up the crack passing through the bulging face directly behind the ledge. Continue up to a large ledge with a crack at its rear. Climb this crack to a bush, continue up the recess above.

Straight up the centre of the face.

Start as for Black Diedre. Climb up to a small ledge on the right (peg) and then on up to a small roof. Move right for two metres then pull through the roof and continue to the top.

Climb the thin seam, splitting the buttress, to the right of Angelica’s deep crack. This is easily seen from where the path enters the kloof at the base of Sunshine Crack. Walk around Angelica’s pillar and scramble up to a ledge at the base of the crack, about 25m right of Angelica’s pillar.

1. [19] 15m Climb the crack for 10m. Step left and follow the crack to a small ledge above an overlap.

2. [15] 30m Follow the crack tending slightly left to the large halfway ledge.

3. [15] 30m From the top of a small boulder, step into a shallow open book, then make a brave move to good footholds on the right. Continue up diagonally left to the big block on a ledge. Walk past the block, about 3m, before climbing more or less straight up for another 15m.

4. [12] 30m Make a beeline for the top, avoiding the grass as much as possible and finish spectacularly up some large blocks.

This climb is situated just to the right of THE SLOT, i.e. about 4m upstream of CLEFT BUTTRESS.

1. 25m 19 Climb straight up to the crack through the overhang. Jam up this, pass the trees on the right, and climb the continuation crack to a large grassy ledge. The crux is at 7m. Finish off as for THE SLOT.

About 100m upstream of 'Lifebuoy', on the same side of the kloof, is a gully, after which you come to a small rock buttress. The route takes the face facing the kloof. Half-way up there is a ledge where a small tree is visible. Above the ledge is an open book.

1. 30m 19 Climb the face starting about 2m left of the arete. Directly up for 4m and then tend diagonally right towards the arete for 3-4m and then up left to a large ledge with a tree growing on it. Climb the open book directly above and swing up and left to a resting place. Continue up the steep crack directly above to the top.

Climb a direct line up the face directly between Come take a Trip in My Air-Ship and Drive on.

Start at stream level and climb the obvious buttress, through a small roof halfway up the buttress

This route is situated on the first rock buttress you come to on the true left side of the kloof just downstream of the lower campsite. Start 3m to the right of CLEVER just to the left of an overhang which is about 8m above the ground.

1. 20m 19 Start below a short face. Pull-up on good holds onto the face to below a small overhang, swing right and continue up the right-facing open book to a metre or so below the overhang. Swing left onto the arete and continue up the left facing open book to below an overhang (consisting of a jutting-out slab of rock). Pull through the overhang on the right.

Scramble up ledges and two rock bands to the middle of the face and the highest easy grass ledge. Start in the middle where the ledge starts to fade.

1. Climb up the easiest line (avoid some loose flakes) to a large ledge below the roof.

2. Traverse right below the roof on a good rail to a small stance where the roof ends and the rock becomes white.

3. Climb through the roof at a jam crack. Continue up to a nose, and climb up steeply on the left of this easier rock. Continue over easy rock to a large ledge.

4. Continue up the dihedral just left of the roof above. Climb through the second roof and belay.

5. Traverse left on the obvious line on blocks, dropping down at one or two places. From the ledge climb to the apex of the blocks on the left.

6. Climb the face above on holes in the rock, up left into a steep break and thus to a rail. Traverse right and up to a stance.

7. Continue directly above on steep rock and then easier rock to a rotten ledge below the main overhangs on the face.

8. Move off the right-hand end and then up a hidden recess to a ledge on the left.

9. Move up and traverse left. Continue up and left to a steep section leading to a belay ledge.

10. Traverse left up the nose until the rope runs out (small stance).

11. Continue up scruffy rock to a good stance.

12. Climb up tending diagonally.

Starts 15m left of 'Follow The light'. Climb short overhanging crack. Step 1m right and pull through roof. Climb slab tending slightly left to good abseil tree. (Intricate gear placements).

About 15m upstream of TOP GUN there is an impressive roof with a triangular notch in the centre. An obvious dirty looking corner is situated about 5m to the right.

1. 25m 19 Climb up the crack on the left wall of the corner so as to avoid the dirty looking bit. Move right into the corner at about 5m. Bridge up through the roofs and then move left on good holds onto the face and climb up to a small ledge. Climb the small recess on the right side of the ledge to another narrow ledge. At this stage it is possible to step right to gain easier rock, however for more good climbing (a little runout), climb the open book above, exiting left to gain a mega ledge .

Note: Even though this climb looks pretty grotty it is actually quite good. Care should be taken in the summer months as it is infested with wasps. Descent is by abseil from the horizontal branch of the big tree.

This route goes up the front of Isolation Pinnacle at a tree 2m left from where the Frontal route starts.

1. 40m 19 Climb the steep rock and head diagonally right to the vague recess (the Frontal route climbs the jam crack to the left). Good climbing leads up the thin crack above. Step right at the top and continue up the slab above.

The route starts immediately left of 'Mark The Ripples', passing through the square-cut overhang above.

1. 18m 15 Ascend the steep, brown, fluted rock immediately left of the start of 'Mark The Ripples'. (Small friends for protection.) Bridge up until able to reach a side-pull then move up to the ledge above.

2. 35m 19 Climb the crack system to below the roof, where good protection may be arranged. Exit through the crack on the upstream side by layback/jamming to gain easier ground above.

Variation: From beneath the roof it is possible to exit on the downstream side. Using a small foothold on the nose, move left onto easier ground.

Start as for Youngster’s Line. Move diagonally right for a few metres and then straight up to a rail. Move right to a block/spike. Continue up and left, finishing up the groove.

About 10m upstream from BORED GAMES (i.e. just left of the recess).

1. 30m 19 Climb the overhanging jam-crack to broken ground. The first 10m are really good, and steep.

Walk upstream of 'Lifebuoy' and as the kloof takes a turn to the left a face can be seen with roots hanging down.

1. 20m 19 Climb up past the roots to an open book on the left. Move up the open book to a small ledge. Continue up steep face to a good belay ledge.

2. 15m 12 Above is a recess with a face - climb the recess to the left.

Note: Reach dependent.

A squeeze between Cash Connection and 'Orphan of the Road'. Startup Cash Connection and step right to pull past left side of the low, small, square roof. Follow a vague seam, which is left and parallel to the Orphan of the Road crack. A tad run out. From the ledge straight to the top.

Follow the short layback past a small tree (take care with gear). Tend right to intermittent crack up the face. Continue up the wide cracks and breaks (#4 Camalot useful) finishing on the right side of the summit block.

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

A rippled face with a chimney crack just right of it is found. Climb the face to a rail. Traverse right into the chimney onto a ledge. Climb straight up close to the right edge of the ledge on powerful moves. Continue through the overlap to a ledge then head for the tallest headwall of the crag. The route is 45m long and can be done in 2 pitches.

Between OPUS ONE and LITTLE MOLAR is a steep overhanging buttress. The climb takes a line up the middle of the buttress.

1. 30m 19 Scramble up easy rock to the base of the first overhang. Climb the face just to the right of the first overhang. Continue up the crack system to a good ledge, move leftward to small stance below the roof with crack running through it. Move through the roof and continue up, moving slightly right, onto the top of the pinnacle.

Note: Good, clean, exposed climb.

Climb takes the corner and crack to right of prominent undercut buttress right of HEFFALUMP TRAP, virtually opposite KANGAROOF. Scramble up 15m to a bushy ledge and tree belay.

1. 20m 19 Traverse easily to below nose. Up cracks and corner to top of buttress. Left and up crack to tree belay.

The route starts at the tiny cave at bed level marked on the map just downstream of 'Appie Doctor', taking a line from the cave to the top of the overhang above.

1. 35m 19 From the cave ascend easily to below a shallow open book. Climb the open book until able to move right awkwardly onto a small sloping ledge. Continue up the face to a ledge below a slanting dihedral.

2. 35m 17 From the ledge move right (1m) and then ascend the arete. Climb awkwardly at first to gain a shallow open book. Ascend this until directly below the overhanging crack. Pull through the overhang on excellent jams to the top.

Note: It is possible to omit the final overhang by traversing left, where the grade of the pitch falls to 15.

A good route on a fine wall. Sustained, but well protected. Take the small recess about two metres right of Generation Gap. Climb up the recess for three metres and move into the corner. Traverse out right to a shallow crack on the wall and climb this to a rail. Move slightly right and pull onto the face above to exit.

The opposite side of the flake starting from a ledge up to bolted chains.

Takes the obvious corner just left of EGOWHIP.

1. 20m 19 Climb the corner/recess directly.

The climb starts about 3m downstream from 'Before Breakfast' following a crack just right of the roots.

1. [19] 17m Climb the crack to a platform on the left. Step right and up onto bulge gaining a handrail on the headwall (piton). Rail right awkwardly and then up to stance.

Note: The piton was found in place.

The third pitch on the book says it is a 15 but I had climbed a 17 and 18 pitch before it and those all felt easier than the third pitch, that's why I am suggesting a grade 19 for it. The second pitch is an amazing 18 pitch, really fun.

Unbelievable. 30m right of 'Scrabble'. Climb the crack on the steep wall 5m left of an arête till under the roof. Step out left then back onto the headwall keeping right of the tree. Possible to make a stance here, or continue on easier ground to the top.

The climb is situated on the same face as DIVE BOMBER and about 12m downstream of it. The face on which these two climbs are located is directly opposite the normal entrance into Grootkloof. About 6m downstream of the start of HEFFALUMP TRAP, the face breaks up right to form a large recessed gully. The climb starts opposite a large boulder in the stream, which forms a minor waterfall into a pool below. By stepping diagonally left from the boulder onto the face one is now over the small pool.

1. 15m 19 Step off the boulder left and up over easy rock to a large ledge which runs left into the corner of the face (3m 15). In the right hand corner of the ledge is an A-shaped cave recess which is topped by a small overhang. Climb this recess to its apex (5m 9), break out via a straddle and move up onto the ledge above the overhang (1,5m 21). Gain a few metres in height from the ledge and traverse by a series of undercut holds left (3m 17) and then up to a ledge (3m 17).

2. 12m 13 Ascend the face directly above via a crack and move right onto a ledge on top of the open book forming the right-hand edge of the belay stance (6m 11). Traverse to the right for (3m 9) and then ascend to a stance via a broken recess in the face (3m 10). Here one can continue to the top via an indifferent scramble, or traverse off right to the base of PHOENIX.

Note: The grade 21 move can be protected by means of a sling placed level with and to the right of it on a liana creeper. This involves some scrambling. A technically pleasing climb which is well protected.

This climb is situated on the buttress just upstream of the attractive face with KB4 and ABSENTIA on it. The climb follows the downstream arete with a large tree projecting out from the base of the climb. A prominent gully with a cave recess is found just downstream of the climb.

1. 30m 19 Climb the short face with roots to the right. Follow the open book moving right when the face steepens, continue up to a small overhang. Move left and up to a block. Continue up the arete using lugs (layback holds) until another small overhang is reached. Move left again and pull through on good holds. Continue up to small ledge.

2. 12m 13 Move up to the rail, then leftward to a small stance, and then traverse right to the crack system. Follow this to top.

Note: A good clean enjoyable route.

Climb the crack to a stance at the top. To descend, scramble up and left to where decent becomes easy.

Lower-offs and top rope access.

A good route but difficult to protect, especially on the lower section where a crater is possible. Start one metre right of Microphobia. Climb the face to the same level as the large overhang. Traverse right and move up onto the corner. Climb into a recess and follow this to a ledge. Finish up a short face and the corner on the left.

Start at small deep cave opposite big tree 8m below Straight Edge Corner.

1. 22m (19) Climb up in cave. Move left under overhang into crack and up to a recess where you can stand. Follow crack to top. At the top make a small detour to the right to avoid plants growing in the crack at the top.

2. 25m (14) Continue directly upwards (2m right of chimney recess with two trees) on coarse grained rock to top. (12m up is a tree).

Start about halfway between 'Onderstebo' and 'Retribution', just left of the roots coming down from the face and below a shallow cave 4m up.

1. 25m 17 Scramble up to the foot of a short, steep face, just right of the cave and just left of the roots. Delicate climbing diagonally up left leads to an easier angled ramp above the cave which is followed to a stance on a ledge.

2. 15m 19 Climb straight up for 4m and then move diagonally up right to the base of a shallow open book. Climb this to a small overhang and then step very delicately right onto a ledge and stance in the recess, about 3m below a large overhang.

3. 25m 17 Climb up to the overhang and then make an awkward, strenuous move out left onto a small sloping ledge. Continue diagonally left to the base of a shallow recess above the overhang which is climbed to the top.

This route follows a line between Groovy and Dirt bag groove. Start at the same spot as “Snakeskin Arête” but instead of climbing diagonally right, head left up the obvious ramp below the huge roof that is about 60 meters up.

1. 55m, 15 Climb the corner of the ramp until forced out left by the steeper ground and some poor looking rock. Head diagonally left towards the arête and take a stance on the arête at some blocks.

2. 25m, 19 Traverse back into the corner then out on the face to the crack that goes up to the bulge. Climb the crack to below the bulge then traverse right on big flat edges and step down onto the arête. Step across the open book and climb that to the ledge.

3. 55 m, 17 Climb the layback crack and then step right onto the arête. Climb diagonally left to below big corner that turns into a chimney higher up. Climb to below the chimney then traverse left onto the face. Climb the face to the top.

Note: Third pitch is brilliant exposed climbing. Would be worthwhile to try and go through the bulge. There is good gear. It will be hard though.

Steep leftward facing crack line. Tree at base in the way of starting moves. Use extra rope to pull tree back to leave unharmed. Follow obvious left tending crack. Insane. Insane. Busts to the ledge above and then up right and out to a lower-off tree. Permission has been given to retro-bolt.

Climbs the arete avoided by the first pitch of CANDLEHORSE.

1. 20m 19 Start just above stream level in a short dark corner. Climb the corner and exit right and up to CANDLEHORSE's horizontal break. Climb up the arete on it's left hand side finally moving on to the front to finish up to a ledge.

The lower section follow the largest area of grey rock on the South East side of the mountain. Start 150 steps to the left of the fence, which runs straight up to the rock face. Start at tha large tree growing 3m away from the rock face.

1. 18m (E2) Climb up to stance above tree inside cave-like recess.

2. 22m (D) Step up to small ledge on right and traverse right out of recess. Climb up to ledge on right. Traverse 3m right into crack and up to stance

3. 30m (E2) Move up boulder on right. Traverse round corner and up crack past small overhang to ledge with blocks.

4. 40m (E3+) Climb corner above to grass ledge. Follow grass bands via exposed crack with tree on top, and to next tree which is below major rockband.

5. Scramble 5m up to grass ledge and walk left along ledge to a chimney and recess.

6. 15m (E2) Climb up to overhang and left to stance.

7. 24m (E3) After a long pullup, follow easy rock slightly left to a bush.

8. 18m (D) Climb diagonally left to rockband and climb out right to main grass band, which divides the upper and lower sections of Hanglip.

9. 30m (F2) The upper section starts just to the right of the highest point of the grass band, where it begins to dip steeply downwards to the right. Start well to the right, going up over a series of long ledges, then move left of a pile of small blocks to an overhang. Traverse left just under the small overhang and up to a block on whicha stance can be made.

10. 15m (F2) Traverse left along ledge, crossing an open gap by climbing down 2m in an exposed position, or alternatively climbing up and jumping down from a sleng point (E).

11. 33m (F2) From the belay climb up to ledge and traverse right until it is possible to break through rockband above (very tricky on loose rock). Continue right along rock band and up to grassy ledge and stance.

12. 16m (F1+) From the top of a block mantleshelf onto ledge and climb out to the right.

13. 18m (F2) Start about 13m to the left of a square corner by climbing open book to overhang. Traverse right to cubby-hole.

14. 4m (G2) Ascend bottomless recess to another cubby-hole. Originally done on aid (F2 A1).

15. 20m (E3) Traverse to the right and then climb up to an open book recess. This recess is climbed to a stance on a grass ledge.

16. 20m (E3) Climb a crack and work out to the left by climbing up to an overhang. Complete the route by climbing out to the right.

FA: R. Barry, C. Purdham (1937-12-25)

Variation: Starting from the top of pitch 8 to near the bottom of pitch 12, this section can be climbed in two direct pitches.

Decent: If the climb is completed in daylight, a fairly quick descent, involving a short abseil, can be made in the vicinity of the first saddle behind the main peak. As this route is not easy to find in darkness, late parties are advised to contour around on the rough, bushy slopes of the next 'hump' to a more obvious route where a steep grassy gully breaks the rock faces.

To decent to Hanglip North, the descent is as follows: From the top beacon of Hanglip, keeping basically right, descend to a neck between a small koppie and Hanglip. The koppie overlooks the valley of Hanglip North. DO NOT go down the gully, but descend the slope diagonally left of the gully.

This climb is situated 10m upstream of 'North America Wall'.

1. 30m 19 Climb the crack to the right of the large cave overhang until forced right to easier ground, continue up to a small tree. Make a difficult traverse 2m left over lip of overhang to a small stance at base of recess (crux). Follow recess to top of buttress with difficult moves at 3m and 6m.

Note: A good route with sustained climbing from the traverse line onwards. Adequate protection on small nuts.

Start: on the left side of a prominent blocky fin of rock that sits near the base of the buttress.

1. Climb the face heading for the open-book formed by the left side of the jutting rock fin. Climb the open book to exit onto a small stance on top of the rock pillar/fin.

2. Follow a blind crack up and slightly leftwards to a small ledge. Continue straight up blocky ground on excellent rock, aiming up and left to a prominent, clean, open-book corner some 20m high. Continue up the open book and then out to a small stance about 5m above the open-book.

3. Above is a very prominent "Shark's Fin" under an overhang. Climb straight up to the obvious open-book formed by the recessed wall meeting the shark's fin on the left. Climb the open-book (#4.5 Camalot very useful here) and bypass the roof above by pulling up onto the shark's fin. Continue up, heading for a very prominent splitter-crack running through the headwall. Stance at the base of the crack.

4. Layback up the ramp at the start of the splitter till it steepens. Using aid, climb through the bulge following the crack. Continue (free) up the easier angled open-book corner and stance on a big ledge. Scramble across the ledge and straight up the prow ahead until able to move across a sloping slab to the right and up to a higher ledge. The next pitch starts up a flaky looking break on the right corner of the next prow.

5. Follow the flaky crack up the corner and slightly to the right. Continue up to just below a small roof. Stretch across and swing to the left onto easier ground. Above is another small overhang with a break on the right. Climb up under the overhang. Continue up the break and on up to a prominent chimney crack. Climb the chimney for a few metres and then break out left following a crack on the left wall to the top of the prow (this pitch is shared with Hold On Woman).

You are now on the final ridge. Scramble up the ridge for two rope lengths (+/-120m). At this point slopes on the right are easily accessed.

Descent: cross the slope for approximately 60m to a rappel point with tat.

1. 60m rapp. Scramble down to the next terrace. The next rappel point is on a leaning boulder.

2. 40m rapp to a grassy slope. Move left, facing Piccolo, until in the gully. Follow the gully, making short rapps where necessary. At the bottom of the gully, scramble up a subsidiary gully directly opposite.

3. 60m rapp from a rocky point at the top of the grassy gully (look out for tat). This rappel takes you down a steep and bushy gully, behind a large chockstone, and lands you very near the start of the route.

First opened with two points of aid on the first pitch and subsequently freed by Mike Roberts, Ladson Hayes and Roy Gooden in 1976. Good climbing and well worth doing, with a great handswing on the second pitch.

1. Climb a broken face into a small recess. Climb this past a peg and continue up over a section of bad, but easy rock to a stance at the base of an open book.

2. Climb the open book to an obvious rail. Traverse left onto the steep wall using the foot rail until a crack is reached. Climb this for three metres and then handswing across a steep wall to a resting point. Climb easily to the top.

The route traverses starts 2m right of the water drip and collection point at the more or less in the middle of the Divine Time Buttress. The start is marked with a cairn place on a block.

1. (19) 55m Do a couple of moves up the white rock and place a high large cam. Crank through to a jug - a bit rounded if you are short. Continue straight up the good quality grey rock to a ledge at 35m or so. Stance here or continue for another 10m up the obvious recess and step right onto the face/pillar and continue to a ledge with some blocks at the base of the orange rock.

2. (19) 25m Head for the left leaning red recessed ramp and continue to below a large overhang and make a stance on a perch.

3. (19) 25m Move right and climb through the overhang on the right. One can place excellent gear at the lip from an under-cling in the corner under the over-hang. Make sure you have very long slings to avoid drag if you choose to leave gear in the rail under the overhang. Swing out right and climb diagonally up right avoiding the chossy channel on the left. Follow the good rock diagonally right passing the first triangular overhang and continue past the second, larger triangular overhang on the right and then straight up as per the topo to a belay ledgeto stance on a large ledge.

4. (19) 50m Place a 1 inch cam up on the right. Climb up the flakes first using jugs and then lay-back after placing the very obvious 2.5 inch cam (gold camelot or equivalent). Above you are huge roofs. Move up to under the roof and then pull through the obvious notch to find yourself under another massive roof system. Exit this on the right and then climb straight up the arete to belay left of a large yellow wood tree/bush.

5. (18) 20m Climb the obvious recess using the flakes and then do a crank through the overlap to continue more easily to the top.

Descent walk left, (EAST) about 40m to the Timerity abseil.

Notes (Snort).

1. The single hardest move especially if you are short stature is 3m off the ground.

2. This route is steep and consistent and pumpy at the grade. It has about as much 19 grade climbing as all the grade 19 pitches -combined - on Africa or Fountain Ledges so you need to be quite climbing fit. None of the actual moves are as hard as say the crux on Last Laugh but there are lots and lots of them. You should be competent and fit enough to do grade 20 one pitch routes on trad before doing this route.

3. The protection is excellent especially at the cruxes. However, at Yellowwood the routes and pitches are long and run-outs are part and parcel of the climbing experience there. Otherwise you can easily run out of time especially in winter.

4. It can be climbed all year round and is dry within two days of rain.

5. If you have an epic the route is steep so easy to rap off bollards and threads.

6. Some climbers who have done Good Time reckon the routes is improved by linking to the top pitches on Good Time after doing the 3rd pitch. This might be so but pitch 4 is excellent and pitch 5 also has decent climbing with a spicy crux at the grade. Good Time in its own right is a 5 star route and has consistent grade 19 climbing with only a short 4m crux through the roof. Unless you have a visitor who is climbing once off at Yellowwood I strongly recommend doing each route independently.

7. Gear: Standard rack of wires and cams with double cams of alternate sizes say as some of the pitches are long. No micro nuts or micro cams are necessary. 50m ropes are fine but then you will have to use the optional stance of pitch 1 which is no big deal.

8. The climbing is steep and intimidating but it flows nicely. It is grade 19! and all the cruxes can be protected before committing to the moves. Once committed to a crux, remember it is grade 19. That means you will be able to climb safely for not more than a metre or two before you will be reasonably comfortable to put out more pro.

9. Finding the Timerity descent is easy from here. You can see the red rope tat from the final belay stance on top of the Divine Time Buttress. Facing out look down and to your right and you will see red rope tat (As at June 2016) at the start of the long grassy floured ledge topped by the overhang (cave).

This route and Prime Sending Conditions both climb a lovely wall perched high up on the downstream junction of Boulder and Lower Tonquani (opposite and downstream from Sabre). Well worth it just for the views. The climbing is good too. Access from the top by scrambling out to the point of the peninsular between the two kloofs. Leave some fixed gear and rap 25m down to a nice ledge with soft grass. The two lines are a few meters apart and are obvious. Routes named after a display of alpine climbing prowess later in the day, when a family of four (including two small kids) calmly climbed a route out of Boulder in a fearsome thunderstorm.

Climb the corner on the right, stepping right at the roof and then back left.

Start about 3m to the right of SCHWEESICLES at the base of a tree. Same start as for SHADOW OF DOUBT.

1. 20m 19 Climb into the right hand of the two cracks and into a shallow corner higher up. Pull over two bulges and up onto a ledge.

2. 15m 19 Move up the rippled corner directly above until able to move left onto the arete about halfway up. Continue up to the top.

1. 25m 17 as per Trivia

2. 30m 15 Above the first stance there are two breaks leading to the face between 'Trivia' and 'Onderstebo'. Take the left break leading onto the face. Climb up the middle of the face to the top.

1. 10m 19 From the large ledge climb directly up the groove above the ledge and make an awkward move right onto the face. Climb the slab above as for PHALLUS.

Start as for After the Goldrush. From the lowest level, scramble up a groove past a tree to the ledge 5m up. Move left to recess at the base of After the Goldrush.

1. 15 (30m) Pull into the recces and then move ~2m right onto the juggy face to the right. Climb up 2m then traverse right ~2m. Continue straight to the next ledge.

Walk ~20m right to a large bush at the base of set vertical cracks.

1. 19 (30m) Climb the left, more distinct, crack to a small roof ~10m up. Pull through on the left side, then traverse ~2m right. Head straight up through the break in the step section above.

2. 12 (10m) Pull up onto a grey, juggy face. Continue through the next break (with a long, narrow roof to the right), to the next ledge.

3. 17 (30m) Stand on a platform to gain a break in the grey/red speckled rock just over a small roof. After this, follow a light brown fin that forms the right side of a chimney. Pull over the bulge at the end of the fin to a small ledge. Continue up another short ramp to the next ledge.

4. 18 (20m) Move straight up to a right arching crack below a narrow roof. Pull through the roof (tricky) and continue straight to the top via a second thin roof.

Start left of the 18 on the main face.

1. [17] 20m

   Climb straight up to stance on a small ledge in front of a white face.

2. [19] ??m

   Crux pitch. Stay on the white face all the way parallel to the 18.

3. [18] ??m

   Join the 18 for the final part of the route

The top pitch is really good!

The route starts form the same point as CATHEDRAL WALL at a tree in the second recess downstream from Walking Gully. Traverse from Walking Gully along a sloping ledge for 18m then 3m up into the recess (7). (Precarious when wet, a rope is recommended).

1. 35m 19 Directly above the stance the recess overhangs. Climb the left wall for 6m to a small ledge. Move right and up for 3m to the overhang. Ascend the overhang (crux) and continue up the groove for 5m. At the top, move left to a ledge and descend diagonally left on a ramp then an awkward step away from the crack and across to a tree (crossing CATHEDRAL WALL). Continue down leftwards to another tree in a corner crack (6m).

2. 35m 17 From the tree move up the left face for 6m to a ledge then diagonally right to the base of the overhanging crack. Surmount the overhang to a sloping ledge and continue up the crack and out left then 5m to the top.

6m right of the fence (right of 'Train Massacre'). Up to a break, up face, out left onto a slab, out right (#1 rock behind flake) up to roof, traverse right and up to a ledge. Ab off tree 15m right.

Start 10m left of Woody Wood³.

1. 35m (G1 A1) Climb the groove until the crack fizzles out. Tension left of a blade to another crack and up to stance.

2. 40m (G1 A2) Climb through the first two roofs free and then into a groove. Aid up and through (6 points) and to a ledge on the right. Continue up to a ledge to belay.

3. 40m (G2) Traverse left back into crack and up to small stance in left-hand crack.

4. 40m (G2) Move up for 5m then back into right-hand crack. Continue up this to stance below and left of a tree.

5. 30m (G2 A2) Move right and up to tree. Continue up the crack free through a horrendous crumbling roof to below the final overhang. Aid through (2 points) and belay on the right.

6. 30m (F2) Traverse right about 10m then up and back left and up a crack to scrambling ground.

Note: Hard and serious with a lot of poor rock but good runners. Recommended for suicidal maniacs. Take four pegs [in 1980, what should we take today?].

This route starts 2 to 3m downstream from 'Circle Of Hands' at the deepest part of a small cave.

1. 15m 19 Ascend the overhanging corner on the left of a small cave just downstream of 'Circle Of Hands'. Continue up the short face above the corner to easier ground.

2. 30m 17 Move left to a short chimney on the left side of a steep face. After climbing up a few meters move right onto the arete and continue up to a ledge below the final steep face. Climb this final face tending slightly leftwards.

Start: From a shady shelter behind some trees, about 20m higher up from the grey face used by Valken Edge. A Brown wall looms above, split by a brake leading to a stance.

1. Climb the face to the roof, then move left to gain the base of a prominent scoop. Climb the Scoop, then swing right around the corner on sharp edges and move up into a stance.

2. Wedge up a wide, overhanging crack on the left, then hand traverse left at the first rail over an alarming drop until energetic pulling up can be made.

3. From a higher ledge (shared with Valken Edge) climb a short groove on the right to a platform.

4. Traverse left and up into a huge recess, which is hidden from sight around the corner. Climb up, avoiding the 'Damocles Blocks' and exit strenuously at the top onto a ledge full of blocks.

5. Step up to a crouching traverse line and move left around the corner, stretch down to a lower rail and power jam across a rough rounded rail to the corner.

6. Climb the face behind the stance and finish on the right-hand skyline.

This is just a direct combo of some existing routes with linking sections.

1. Start on Joker but continue straight between two bushes to a dark grey face. Climb the intermittent crack and then step left and through the bulge to join Beeline. Continue straight to a small ledge (below and left of the projecting block where Beeline goes.)

2. Head up and slightly left to follow a break through the overlap above. Head straight to the top of the crag.

Very nice route. Crack line and right facing corner up the pinnacle. Tat and maillon at top.

A worthwhile route with a technical second pitch. Start five metres to the right of Eskumbu.

1. Climb up to a small overhang and pull through this into a short recess. Continue up this recess to the foot of a big crack. Climb this to a good stance.

2. Climb up the big open book until it is possible to traverse across the right hand face to the corner. Continue up this to the top.

From the grassy sleeping cave ascend to the huge descent gully to reach the huge chockstone obstruction. Traverse 40m out to the right to a left facing corner.

1. [15] 45m

   Climb up from the beacon for 3m then move right up the corner for 2m. Move right onto the white face with the big 'Kaapse' (Cape) jugs to a big ledge.

2. [19] 45m

   Walk 10m to the left to a cairn (and the world's softest belay). Climb up the obvious gnarled crack to the left of a left-facing recess. Halfway up the crack runs out. Then climb the grey slab on small holds; this looks blank from below but goes, continue to a ledge beneath a large roof.

3. [19] 25m

   Move to the right then up a crack to the top. Step around the corner and take a few steps to a wonderful platform below the overhang.

4. [19] 45m

   Climb up to the base of the roof then move left on rickety flakes to a break through the roof via an awkward notch. Once over the roof climb diagonally right to the edge of the buttress. Climb the slot for a few hard moves and continue up to a 2m wide stance (with teeny cairn)

5. [19] 45m

   Climb the crack to a jam crack then through an overlap and up a further series of cracks to the top.

Situated in a broad recess shaped like an "A" with the top triangle removed. Its right hand retaining wall is a smooth grey face which is undercut at its outer edge. Start 20m downstream of STRAIGHT EDGE on the opposite side of the kloof.

1. 20m 19,A1 Commence in the left of the recess. Move up the small recess for 1,5m and traverse right via a hand and foot rail to another recess formed by the wall and the right hand slabbed wall (5m 17). Ascend recess partially for 3m and move out left onto the face. Continue up to a ledge 2m up (3m 17). Move across right retaining wall (2 pitons, A1). Continue a further 2m on small finger holds to the corner and around to a ledge (19). Continue up a recess and a small chimney to a broad ledge (8m 15).

2. 30m 7 Scramble to top.

Note:

Pitch 1 is sustained but well protected.

Variation:

The 19,A1 traverse may be avoided by a spectacular hand-traverse on the foot rail.

The route takes the arete on the prominent pinnacle to the right of 'Illegitimate'. The start is directly below the arete and just to the left of a set of overhangs at ground level.

1. 34m 11 Climb straight up the grey face to the arete of the pinnacle. Use layback flake on the arete to gain the overhangs. Move onto the right hand face to avoid these and once above them swing back onto the arete. Continue up the arete for 5m to a ledge.

2. 20m 19 Continue to the top of the pinnacle. Step onto and ascend the smooth face above using a peg for aid to gain a ledge. Move left off the ledge and continue to the top.

Notes: 2 pegs on the route suggest that part of and perhaps the whole route has been climbed previously. It is unknown who made the first free ascent.

1. 30m 19 Climb up to the comfortable ledge as for SYMBOL. Continue up the recess. Instead of traversing left make a difficult move up and right onto the front of the buttress. Climb the buttress to the ledge (the last part is shared with PHALLUS).

1. [17] 35m

2. [19] 40m

Start just left of Eclipse

1. 15 (20m) Follow a straight line, starting on a small flat spot a few meters left of Eclipse, up the face to the ledge. Stance below a break in the brown rock that leads to a left tending undercling.

2. 19 (20m) Follow the break and undercling to the roof and rail left to a small platform stance.

3. 18 (30m) Head up and slightly right (#3 Camalot useful) to a rail. Continue right to a vague, airy arete and follow this up and then left to a large ledge. Continue easily up the honeycomb features on the right and scramble up to a huge ledge. Continue right to stance left of a low roof, in about the middle of the wall that rises above the ledge.

4. 16 (35m) Climb up a few meters to a slight bulge, pull through this then follow the line of least resistance straight up the face.

At the left extremity of the amphitheatre above the second weir is a grey face neatly bisected by a vertical crack. The face does not come down to ground level. The route starts in the black overhanging open book below the face and tends diagonally rightwards ending through the pronounced curved off-width crack near the top.

1. 34m 19 Ascend the overhanging open book on jams into the recess above (5m). Move right of the small overhang into another open book. Ascend to a point underneath the roof above. Break right onto the adjacent face and ascend this to gain the base of the off-width crack. Thrutch awkwardly up the crack until the top of the shield can be reached. Swing right onto the face and mantle onto the top of the shield. From its right-hand extremity pull up onto the big belay ledge. Scramble off.

Note: Protection is good on this pleasing route.