Routes in Harry Potter

Pitch 1 is 21/6b+. Pitch 2 is 21/6b+. Use 2 ropes to abseil all the way or go from chains to chains. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.

Interesting stemming low down, and a powerful hand jam to clip for the crux.

There are some rather aggressive starlings nesting nearby...be prepared to be flown at.

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A good climb up the steep wall. New anchors put up in May 2015 (MCSA).

A gem! Strange that it was not bolted sooner. Sustained face climbing up the right facing wall. Hardware by MCSA-Boven Fund.

Natural Gear

Start 5m right of Moaning Myrtle. The route takes an almost straight line to the bolts, with a crux at 1/3 height and a tricky move onto the top of an overhang near the top. Good climbing.

Power climb up a black open book. Mantle shelf out of a roof, to the chains. Nice climb!

Start in corner, just left of chimney. Move left onto slab then right onto a short right facing corner. Climb to ledge then move left onto left facing corner. Steep moves at the top. Bad rope drag - take some long draws.

This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe. New anchors May2015 (MCSA).

Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above. New anchors May2015 (MCSA)

The first route on the main face.Climb a series of ledges then up to good holds under a small overhang. Move left under overhang and up the slab (crux). A 60m rope ESSENTIAL.

Joins and finishes on HCLH about halfway.

Heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. Its a little artificial but if you climb the arete, try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. Both anchors 100% as of 16 Jan 2010.

Starts at the same bolt as Griffendore and goes to the left.

2m right of Huff 'n Puff

8m right of Crookshanks

starts 4m right of RR on a rocky ledge in a corner. Tricky start.

Overgrown scrambling route. This is the last sport route at the Harry Potter crag before the path dips down to Lord of the Rings.

Start on the boulder and make your way up and towards the obvious crack. Go over the top of the ledge and finish by the tree. Protection is good, but would recommend a cam or two.