Routes in Rocklands

Solo the arête.

Solo up from below the roof.

Solo up the left streak.

Solo up into groove.

The impressive corner/crack near the right hand end of the amphitheatre.

Start 5 m left of‘Shady Lane’.

1. G3: Climb up the crack on the right to a small ledge. Continue up the thin crack to a ledge.

2. C3: Climb the right-hand groove. Jam through the roof crack above. Stance on top of the block.

3. G2: Layback up the groove above.

4. G1: Climb the left-sloping ramps to the roof. Rail right until able to pull through the roof via another jammed block. Climb up slightly and left to a ledge.

5. G1: Climb the easy recess to the roof. Traverse left until near the tree. Climb through the smooth groove. Move left and then directly up to the tree.

6. G1: Climb up a rounded crack. A strenuous rail left leads to a break. Climb through the smooth grove. Layback up to a stance.

7. G1: Move right and up a groove. Pull through the top of it. Move up left and then back right. Climb the superb juggy wall to the top.

E8 trad arete

Start with two pockets, big move up, climb up past big flake and continue up through roof and up headwall.

Nice trad route. You can top out and walk down.

A line up the left-hand edge of the red amphitheatre. Start left of G-String Dancer at the obvious crack with a huge jammed block half way up.

Start with good rail, traverse right move up using pocket...

Bring a crashpad for the start and some trad gear to climb this nice line. Start in the back of the roof.

Start 20m left of Gee-Wizz Kids at an undercut white face & crack.

Start with left hand on undercling, boulder up and right then do a long move up to crimp and climb up to ledge. Climb the overhang wall, first on good holds then some dynamic final moves to finish.

Very nice crack line. Bring a crashpad for the start and some trad gear for the finish. Enjoy.

Start to the right of the main white streak. The climb goes up the right-hand edge of this.

1. Up the recess tending left to a ledge & tree.

2. Climb the crack 10m to the left.

3. Climb up the groove above to a ledge. Walk 20m left to rappel.

Start up layback, move left then up to rail, do a tricky move to a ledge, move to next ledge then up scoop and continue straight up.

Fishing for Compliments but with trad gear. Not sure that Sean knew it was climbed as a boulder already.

"Very cool high wall with nice crimps, slots and pockets".

Climb pitch 1 & 2 of Saturday Afternoon Fever. Then scramble up and right to the obvious crack system going up to the large roofs.

1. Climb the crack to a ledge on the right.

2. Rail left and walk off left.

Start as KaKa-Boom but from the rail traverse right and climb up diagonally right finishing up a black pocketed wall.

Start 15m left of the start/ grey open book on 'Butterfinger Crisp'

1. Bolted: 30m (18) From a boulder, pull onto the face and up to a tiny platform. Head straight up a system of vertical cracks and small corners to the huge ledge. Walk 15m right.

2. 25m (21) Just right of a huge boulder, pull up into a very wide crack that almost forms a corner that arches up and left. Step left onto a face and up and to a small tree. Pull up past the tree and up the steep layback above. Move 5m right to a belay.

3. 30m (17) Climb a few meters up a fin at the base of a grey corner. Step left on the face and head diagonally up and left to a narrow corner (with a fused seam). Follow this to a ledge and belay 5m right of some abseil tat.

4. 20m (16) Head up an orange ramp tending right to the steep wall of chicken heads. Follow this straight up to the top. This is likely the same finish as 'Butterfinger Crisp'

50m left of Saturday Afternoon Fever is a left leaning open book beneath a roof above. Further up is an undercling flake leading up and right. Start on a big block about 10, left of a low-level overhang.

1. From the right hand side of the block. Climb up to a small roof. Move right to a ledge under the open book.

2. Up to the roof, rail right and further via the undercling flake. Exit into the traverse ledge on the right via some hollow blocks and flakes. Walk off left.

Scramble up to the ledge and onto some blocks, traverse left along the high break and continue along the ledge to join Rhinoferos.

1. Citadel (20) Pitch

2. 30m (20) Follow good holds just right of the small corner in the centre of the wall. Continue straight up through a steep section and then the face above to a roof. Rail left and mantle onto a ledge, then up to the next ledge and walk left to below the crack through the bulge. Pitch

3. 25m ( 20) Climb the crack and then straight up to a ledge. Continue up the exposed face above. Scramble over the back down to the lower ledge to find the rap point above Sky Tower.

On the left hand side of the crag towards the top where the gully narrows. An orange walls meets a grey corner. 10m right of this a cairn. Start into a small open book. Up to a roof & through on it's left-hand side. Climb a crack with a tree at it's base. Walk to the right-hand side of the ledge and climb the juggy overhanging crack (11). Scrambling leads to a walk-off left.

Belay from ledge. Climb up right to large rail then diagonally left along crack / rail and then climb straight up the headwall.

Start below a little tree, climb up to jug rail, then climb up a blunt arete with left hand and straight up obvious features.

1. 45m (22) Start from a large boulder at the right side of the wall. Follow a series of narrow corners and fins to the roof which is passed on the right. Continue past another roof on the right and up to the ledge. Pitch

2. 20m (24) Climb straight up the centre of the dark red wall, following a series of horizontal rails. At two-thirds height there is a tricky, committing sequence (micro cams useful) to go straight up to the top. Bailing right will be easier and safer, but less cool.

Climb the thin crack.

10m left of Margarine, scramble to a large boulder. Directly above, a finger of rock points outwards.

1. Follow the crack in a small corner. Go left up the skyline before traversing right to the gap between the pinnacle and the face. Climb the pinnacle, step off and up to a large ledge.

2. Walk right and climb the steep juggy crack. Scrambling leads to a walk off left.

Climb up to the right of a bush and up to a ledge and finish up the center of the 'gable'.

Aesthetic face climbing. A slightly committing start onto the face leads to the intermittent vertical crack in the middle of the wall. Follow the crack and where it peters out continue straight up the orange rock (crux) to a wide rail. Move slightly right and up the grey rock to finish.

Climb up through rail to a big lockoff move into a diagonal licened seam, continue up straight up.

Starts to the right of 'One Life Stand' and takes the easiest way into the narrow corner and up to the bush ledge.

On the left of the upper tier above the main wall. Start with the off width and continue up to the prominent nose.

Climb up to the right of the arching crack.

1. 10m (15) Scramble up into the sandy cleft and then up the wide crack on the right-hand wall to reach a ledge below the crack.

2. 25m (22) Climb into the crack (some sandy sections) and follow it all the way to the top.

Belay from ledge. Climb up right to ledge then move right and climb up slightly left to large rail and continue straight up the headwall.

Climb up the left-hand crack, mantle the slab and the finish straight up.

Follow a series of layback holds between horizontal breaks to gain a dark brown triangular recess. Move up this and exit up and right onto the face. Head straight up and slightly left to the top.

Boulder up the crimpy wall and climb up with easy finish (crashpads for the start!).

Climb the roof crack

Climb the right crack then continue straight up using a pebble pocket to reach seam and finish up the wall using a pebble.

Move easily up and right to reach a hand crack through a small bulge. Pull through and then right to follow the easiest line up to a narrow roof up high. Pass this on the left, then straight to the top.

Climb up left past trianglar seat in the middle of the wall.

Climb the corner crack

Climb the obvious line to the right of the right crack.

On the left wall as you walk up the valley. Boulder pads used for the start.

Start to the right of the obvious diagonal feature of the wall, about 50m to the right of the olive tree that marks the start of "Red Moon Rising".

1. ? (?m) Climb bad rock and finish left?

2. ? (?m) boulder up left?

3. ? (?m) Climb up left?

4. ? (?m) Climb up left?

5. 6a+ (?m) Climb straight up. Stellar pitch!

Walk-out: 1.30hrs Scramble up the gulley exiting out right. Walk up right for 10 min then diagonally down to the right to the start of a large gulley that leads down towards the 2nd bend in the road. Walk down to the right of the gulley.

Start from the boulder and climb straight up.

Climb the flake through the roof

Climb Quail Trail but finish rightwards.

On the left wall as you walk up the valley.

On the far left side of Faith. Scramble up to nice looking wall. Climb the corner crack.

Climb up left past trianglar seat in the middle of the wall.

Climb the roof crack

Climb the left hand crack and continue straight up.

Near the first set of Highline anchors as you walk up the valley on the right.

The 1st pitch starts from a wild-olive tree. Climbing: 2-3hrs.

1. 14 (10m) From the olive tree climb up 10m to a large ledge

2. Scramble (30m) Trav 30mto the right along the large ledge

3. 14 (?m) Climb up diagonally right towards a small tree and stance to the left of a sandy corner

4. 16 (?m) Climb up then traverse right passed a bush and up 7m to good stance below an orange face

5. 15 (?m) Climb up and left to a tree then up and right to a small stance below a large crack

6. 17 (?m) Climb up the face to the right of the crack. CLASSIC!

Walk-out: 1.30hrs Scramble up the gulley exiting out right. Walk up right for 10 min then diagonally down to the right to the start of a large gulley that leads down towards the 2nd bend in the road. Walk down to the right of the gulley.

Climb the right hand crack...

Near the first set of Highline anchors as you walk up the valley on the right.

Wild at Heart, 25 Start: Hope Buttress has two big grey open books in the top half. We are interested in the right hand one. From the clump of pines walk up the left side of the valley between Hope and Charity Buttresses. Avoid the first broken band of rock and on the ledge above it head out left to the very long overhang. The route starts about 8m before the left-hand end of the overhang at a cairn.

1. [21] 15m

   Get off the ground at the big white dot on the rock. Meander up and left to stance at the lip of the overhang on the left at the cascade of creepers.

2. [20] 20m

   Go through the right-hand break in the overlaps above. Continue up to the big ledge system at the base of the beautiful, blunt orange arête with the yellow-white streak.

3. [25] 25m

   Start up the yellow-white streak on orange rock up to the roofs. Continue up directly on grey rock through the overlaps and then up the grey arête to a ledge.

4. [25] 40m

   Start at the back of the ledge then head out rightwards to gain the arête proper. Continue up the arête to the top (world-class).

Starts just left of 'Hainzelman'

Start from a ledge to the right of a large dirty crack.

1. Climb the face slightly right then slightly left into a recess and up to a stance.

2. Climb up to a large ledge.

3. Walk left and climb the right side of the juggy wall.

4. Boulder up and climb leftwards through the arched roof.

5. Climb the scoop to a ledge and traverse right below a crack.

6. Climb the crack.

7. Climb up right through the overhang to a stance.

8. Climb up the break and fight through the offwitch. Pull through the overhang and finish up leftwards.

Walk along left under the long overhang and exit out past a tree. The route goes up passed a large nose feature.

1. Start left of the tree move up slightly right and upwards, gaining a small ledge and then upwards for a few more meters until your reach a large ledge with a big block on it.

2. Climb up the chimney placing gear on extensions as you move up, twin ropes are a good idea to avoid rope drag (clip one rope left of chimney and then the alternate tope only after completing the chimney. Zig zag gently across the thin face (stay low before moving up) and stance in the shady corner.

3. Climb the layback with committing style and place small cams in the powder tufa's at the top of the layback corner to protect the second before moving out left on the ramp. Place some small micro nuts and micro cams in the thin rail of the ramp for 5 metres and stance where there is good gear and a wide ledge.

4. Climb the jugs straight up and then move slightly right on the thin face and then left again before moving upwards to finish.

Follow the crack system from the back of the cave

Start on the right side of the red amphitheatre. There are two cracks, one with a jammed block/'pillar. Use the right-hand crack (beacon).

1. G2: Climb the crack. Traverse right until able to climb a smooth recess to a ledge.

2. F3: Climb the recess, traverse left at the top.

3. G1: Walk left to a recess with a tricky start and a small swing left below a small overhang. Climb up moving right at the top until able to pull through the roof by a detached block. Continue straight up to a big ledge in a recess.

4. F2: From the left-hand end of the recess climb up and left around the corner onto a sloping ledge. Traverse immediately left in the direction of a tree on the left. Just before the tree climb up and right to a stance below a sloping tamp and a crack.

5. G1: Tricky take-off on rounded holds. Continue up the crack and move left to a belay.

6. F3: From the belay move up again on rounded holds until able to move easily up to a ledge with a tree.

7. G3: From the tree climb up the crack and through to the top.

Follow the crack system from the left

Start on a ledge to the right of a tree. Rail to the right and up a blunt arete with a mantle to reach a break. Move to the next break then rail right and climb up past a rock-scar to the top.

Climb the white streak.

From the ledge, Start below corner, climb up and right to ledge and continue and to nice stance in the corner.

Climb onto ledge. Start below black pebbles rock with 3 small vertical cracks. Climb straight up. The last band is mossy and needs a clean , climbing out right is advised.

Pull off the ground on good rails. Pass the blank section with a long reach off an undercling. Place a blue alien (or equivalent) in the undercling feature to prevent a ground fall. A series of stretchy moves takes you past a ledge to the top. May be harder if you are vertically challenged.

Start a few meters right of Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Climb up the crack feature to ledge and join the forenamed route to finish.

This is on the left side of the steep section of the crag. Others may well have climbed here before, details not known.

A multi-pitch route on the left side of the pass as you drive down toward De Pakhys campsite. There is a convenient layby you can park at and take the line of least resistance to walk up the slope. The route starts more or less in the middle of the wall on the darker brown rock near a left-facing recess with a roof a few meters up.

Some great climbing on the last two pitches, but shark infested territory lower down. Two abseils with 60m ropes get you back down.

Not much information on the climbing in this area. There was some ancient tat on the ledge after pitch 2 about 10m of pitch 2 stance so some climbing has been done on this wall before.

1. ±25m (21). Up the blocky features to the roof and pull through a break and step left to a small ledge. Head straight up past the right side of the low roof. To avoid getting into a pickle, embrace the surrounding fragility and tread lightly but confidently onwards until you reach a good rail. Move up and left to a vague recess which is followed to rail, traverse right to a small stance on a narrow ledge.

2. ±25m (18) Move up and slightly right from stance to stay on the most solid rock. More or less straight up to a ledge (rap tat around a touchpoint)

3. ±25m (19) From the stance, again head up more or less straight aiming for a wide horizontal break. Step right and pull up on improving rock quality to a neat ledge.

4. ±30m (22) Bester than sex pitch. Walk slightly right from the stance and romp up steep orange rock, tending ever so slightly right. Pull through the final narrow roof and up to a vegetated ledge - tat around a small tree.

Two abseils save a long walk so you are not too late for the party.

Next valley right of Fields of Joy Driving into the campsite you can see an orange/brown wall on the right of Fields of Joy.

This is on the left side of the steep section of the crag. Others may well have climbed here before, details not known.

Arete to the right of Bokmakirie.

1. 8m (18) Climb the left crack, rail right smearing feet and do a pull up move onto the ledge. Stance behind the boulder.

2. 22m (20) Climb the immaculate layback finger crack to a ledge. Can stance here or continue. Climb the thin left face off the ledge (there is gear) and follow the orange crumbly looking (but solid) rock up to a roof. One powerful move at the top then slightly left to pull through roof without too much difficulty.

Starts just left of the end of Butterfinger Crisp. Note: Anchors are slings rapped around rock features. Slings may need to be replaced so bring along a few 120cm slings and carabiners.

60m right of the cave is a steep bushy recess. 4 pitches following easy climbing. Pitch 2 sports an overhanging crux at (15).

Scramble up on to a ledge. Boulder up through a small overhang and sloper ledge, then follow the line slightly leftwards to where the angle eases and the rock stops. Then scramble up right for about 5 meters where you will find a mini hourglass rap-off. Use dbl ropes to reduce ropedrag and it is 45m to the ground!

Start between a large block and the face, boulder up and traverse right, then climb through the roof crack up to a ledge, trav. Right and finish up the thin crack.

Start in the easy dihedral and climb out left. Big dyno to a jug in the roof and top-out

1. 35m (23) Climb the beautiful crack system up to the dassie graveyard.

2. 10m (16) Traverse left and stance below the obvious exit pitch.

3. 10m (17?) Climb up and top out at the rap point.

Start as for Bloody Mary but climb out right with a difficult mantle. You can walk down through a small gulley / valley on the left side of the rock.

Start from a nook to the right of a tree. Head diagonally left behind the tree, then straight up to a roof. Place good pro at the decent holds just over the lip. A couple of thin, strenuous moves gain you the headwall. Head up and a little right, past rails and a pocket, to the top. Beware, there may be some loose rock low down.

Hard crimpy climbing up the blank face low down into some bigger holds up the bulgy orange wall. Bolted by Theo Greveling and bolts added by Richard Halsey.

Start is apparently harder if short