Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown | |||||
★★★ Automatic for the People | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
10 | Paradise Road | 10m | De Doorns | ||
19 | ★ John's Route
Start on the ramp below the left hand ar6te of the Main Wall. Climb the arête, exiting on the left higher up to finish on great jugs. FA: Richard Halsey, 2012 | Hermanus | |||
27 | ★★★ Rising Force
FA: Clinton Martinengo, 1999 | Hermanus | |||
13 | ★ Country Dream
FA: Joe Möhle & Jamie Smith, 2012 | Hermanus | |||
29 | ★★★ Resistance is Futile
This route has it's hand up for best line in the cave. It's definitely got some of everything. If you can climb this grade, you should definitely get on this. FA: Roger Nattrass, 2014 Set: Roger Nattrass, 2014 | Kirk Falls | |||
Abseil
Abseil/ Rap station. | 3 | Hellfire | |||
Take Me To The Taliban | Langkloof | ||||
★★★ Mula Bandha | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
★★★ White Men Can't Jump | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
★★★ Magic and Loss | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
★★★ Liquid Sky | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
22 | ★ Whine Route
Scramble up to the first bolt at the roof where the route starts. Bust through the roof to the chains on interesting holds. Less whining more climbing! FA: O. de Waal, Mar 2021 | Stellenbosch | |||
Abseil/ Rappel
Abseil/ Rap station. Set: Cormac Tooze & G. Hart, 13 Nov 2021 | Hellfire | ||||
★★★ Event Horizon | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
★★ Little Women | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
★★★ Great Beyond | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
★★ Happy Ending | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
★★★ Passion Gap | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
Drive | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
Bouncing Metabo | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
Spencer | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
Euro Route | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
Fight Club | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
Birkett's Route | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
End of the World | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
26 | All That You Can't Leave Behind | Milner Amphitheatre | |||
★★★ Out of the Blue | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
At My Most Beautiful | Milner Amphitheatre | ||||
Scramble to Incredibles | Oudtshoorn | ||||
Scramble to Skinny Legs | Oudtshoorn | ||||
Abseil
Abseil/ Rap station. | Lion's Head | ||||
Abseil
Abseil/ Rap station. We used doubles ropes. A single 60m might work. | Tafelberg | ||||
Lagerfeld
| Truitjieskraal | ||||
Lacroix
| Truitjieskraal | ||||
29 | ★★ Reign of Fire
Start a few meters right of Slaughterhouse 5. pre-clip 2nd draw to avoid awakward fall under the roof. FA: Evan Margetts, 12 Feb 2018 | Waterval Boven | |||
6b+ | Big Air
Solo the arête. FA: Matt Bush, 2019 | Rocklands | |||
6c | Cloud Infinity
Solo up from below the roof. | Rocklands | |||
7c | Skywalker
Solo up the left streak. FA: Matt Bush, 2019 | Rocklands | |||
6a+ | Starmaker
Solo up into groove. FA: Lexi, 2019 | Rocklands | |||
Closed Project
| Winterhoek | ||||
Trad | |||||
15 | ★★★ Rabid Raggie
FA: Zee van Zyl & Adrian van Zyl, 2006 | 180m | Klein Hangklip | ||
17 | ★★★ Three Amigo's
FA: Adrian van Zyl, Zee van Zyl & Ryno v/d Riet | 120m | Klein Hangklip | ||
22 | ★★ Planet Digit
This route is in the left-hand face of the 'Verooka Palooka' open book. Start 2m to the left of the blocks at the base of the wall. Pull up to the rail then follow the laybacks up the obvious break to a peg. Climb past this and exit to the left. FA: Gerald Camp, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
23 | ★★★ Planet Digit Direct
Start as for 'Planet Digit' and climb straight up the face past the bolt. FA: Stephan Isebeck, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
23 | ★★★ Moon on Ice
Start immediately to the left of the blocks at the base of the wall. Follow the obvious break above, finishing up the wall past the bolt. Retro-bolted in 2007. FA: Gerald Camp, 1989 Maint: Gerald Camp, 2007 | Old Shongweni | |||
22 | ★★ Challenger
Start on the blocks in the 'Verooka Palooka' corner, just to the right of 'Moon on Ice', and immediately to the left of a small tree. Climb straight up to the top past two bolts. FA: Ian Guest, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
20 | ★ Pig
Start 2m to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' corner. Climb straight up the face pulling through the roof above. FA: John Rolfe & Linda Waldman, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
15 | ★ Slap and Tickle
Start 4m to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' corner. Climb up to a small ledge with a bush and pull through the roof above. FA: Grant Cockburn & Andrew Russel-Boulton, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
12 | ★ Pas de Deux
From the bottom of 'Verooka Palooka', traverse easily along the ledge on the right-hand face. From near the end of the ledge, climb straight up the face. FA: A Malherbe & Gerald Camp, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
18 | Girlfriend in a Coma
Start at the base of the roofs just around the corner to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' open book. Follow the line of bolts. The top anchors can be easily cleaned from the top. The next 4 routes up to 'Bandaloop' are all in the same 'Clockworks' open book which is located about 40 m to the right of 'Verooka Palooka'. Retro-bolted in 2004. FA: Gerald Camp, 1989 Maint: Gerald Camp, 2004 | 4 | Old Shongweni | ||
17 | ★ Clockworks
About 40m to the right of 'Verooka Palooka' there is another large open book with blocky chimney up the corner. The left-hand face of this open book is a clean, orange/grey wall with a fig tree on a ledge near the top. Start near the middle of the left-hand face by a 1m high, semi-detached block. Climb the crack and then tend left up the face avoiding the broken rock on the right. Exit just to the right of the tree. Retro-bolted in 2008. FA: Gerald Camp, 1989 Maint: Gerald Camp, 2008 | 5 | Old Shongweni | ||
14 | ★ Doggone
Start about 1m to the left of 'Clockworks' and about 4m to the right of the chimney in the corner. Climb the obvious blocky break and then go diagonally to the right up the good face to finish just to the right of a fig tree. It seems that this route is just an easier variation of 'Clockworks'. FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Miles Holman, 1993 | Old Shongweni | |||
24 | ★★★ Maniacal Expertise
This line takes the left-hand side of the wall to the right of 'Clockworks' and 'Doggone'. Start below the peg and climb straight up the face, exiting slightly to the right. Retro-bolted in 2008. FA: Gerald Camp, 1989 Maint: Gerald Camp, 2008 | Old Shongweni | |||
18 | ★★ Bandaloop
Start just to the right of Maniacal Expertise and climb the face past a block which appears to be loose. Retro-bolted in 2008. FA: Gerald Camp & Dave Robertson, 1989 Maint: Gerald Camp, 2008 | Old Shongweni | |||
13 | ★★ Was It That Long Ago?
Start just around the corner to the right of 'Bandaloop'. Climb the arête on the left of the small face. A short, steep section can be avoided by moving to the right, then up and back left onto the arête. The protection is good. There is an odd mix of bolts with no hangers, bolts with hangers, natural gear and chains. One day ‘someone’ will fix it. Until then, treat it as an adventure. FA: Gerald Camp & Luke Wijnberg, 2001 | Old Shongweni | |||
21 | ★ Green Streaked Nose
Climb up the centre of the face to the left of 'Big Mamma' and pull through the middle of the roof. Finish anywhere up the face above. A great move through the roof. FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton & Simon Joubert, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
11 | ★ Big Mamma
Start in the large open book recess immediately to the left of 'Dixie' and the 'Fig Tree amphitheatre'. Climb up the back of the open book to a roof at 5m. Pull through on the right (awkward) and then up more easily. Step to the right near the top to avoid a loose block. FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham, 1993 Set: Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham, 1993 | Old Shongweni | |||
22 | ★ Post Modern Fragmented Neo-Traditionalist Boulder Problem
Start below a low roof on the wall to the right of 'Big Mamma'. Pull through this roof below the small tree and finish up the break. (People who burden us with route names like this probably need to visit a psychologist.) FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton & Simon Joubert, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
16 | ★ Frog
Start under a small roof formed by a block about 3m up and about 4m to the left of 'Cool Jewelled Moon'. Climb left past the roof and then up the orange and black face above. FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton, Ron Uken & Simon Joubert, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
25 | ★★ Cool Jewelled Moon
Start at a perfect, rectangular, undercling pocket about 5m to the left of the 'Dixie' corner. Crank up past a very old peg to a roof. Pull through the centre of the roof and continue up the face above. FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
13 | ★ Dixie
FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Miles Holman, 1993 | Old Shongweni | |||
20 | ★★ Mantis Mania
FA: Grant Cockburn & Simon Joubert, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
20 | ★★ Milk of Paradise
FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
13 | ★★ Woops
FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham, 1993 | Old Shongweni | |||
15 | ★★ Rock Around the Block
FA: Gavin Peckham & Gavin Raubenheimer, 1992 | Old Shongweni | |||
18 | ★★★ Titanium Beefsteaks
FA: Ian Manson & Gerald Camp, 1988 | Old Shongweni | |||
10 | ★ Easter Bunny
FA: Gavin Peckham, Anthony van Tonder & Rodney Owen, 2001 | Old Shongweni | |||
25 | ★★ Sister Moon
FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988 | Old Shongweni | |||
16 | ★★ Out of the Past
FA: Steve Salmon, 1988 | Old Shongweni | |||
18 | ★★ Into the Future
FA: Steve Salmon, 1988 | Old Shongweni | |||
26 | ★★★ Barefoot in the Heat
FA: Evan Wiercx, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
19 | ★★★ Mr Natural
FA: Mike Roberts, 1979 | Old Shongweni | |||
11 | ★ Missing Link
| Old Shongweni | |||
11 | ★ Unnatural
FA: Miles Holman & Gavin Raubenheimer, 1993 | Old Shongweni | |||
16 | ★★ Flutterby
FA: Gavin Peckham & Gavin Raubenheimer, 2001 | Old Shongweni | |||
16 | ★★ Tight Rope's Traverse
1
16
2
13
FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham, 2001 | 2 | Old Shongweni | ||
17 | ★ House Arrest
FA: Trevor Burden & Grant Cockburn, 1988 | Old Shongweni | |||
15 | ★★ Feeling Groovy
FA: Gavin Raubenheimer, Gavin Peckham & Ceasar de Carvalho, 2001 | Old Shongweni | |||
10 | ★★ Fat Cat
FA: Gavin Peckham & Anthony van Tonder, 2001 | Old Shongweni | |||
15 | ★★ Thin Blue Line
FA: Gavin Peckham & Anthony van Tonder, 2001 | Old Shongweni | |||
18 | ★★ Spanner Near the Works
FA: Gerald Camp, 1988 | Old Shongweni | |||
12 | ★ Who Forgot to Flush?
FA: Gerald Camp, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
12 | ★★ Red and Grey Chute
FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham, 2001 | Old Shongweni | |||
17 | ★★★ Mutant Banana
Note: Another 'sandbag'. It was originally graded at 15. It may even be an 18. The original RD conveniently forgot to mention that there is virtually no gear. If you want to lead this excellent line, you might as well solo it. Until the line is bolted, top-roping is definitely the best option. FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Linda Waldmann, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
15 | ★★ Captain Hook
FA: Gavin Peckham, Gavin Raubenheimer & Anthony van Tonder, 2001 | Old Shongweni | |||
8 - 18 | ★★ This Way Or That
From grade 8 fully using the block behind you, to 18 if you don't use it at all - or anything in between depnding on the extent. FA: Gavin Peckham & Eric Penman, 2001 | Old Shongweni | |||
25 | ★★★ The Gathering
FA: Gerald Camp, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
12 | ★ Close But No Cigar
FA: Gerald Camp, 1989 | Old Shongweni | |||
14 | ★★ Hi Ho Silver
FA: Gavin Peckham & Eric Penman, 2001 | Old Shongweni | |||
15 | ★ High Dive
FA: F Grandin & Francis Nanni, 1988 | Old Shongweni | |||
12 | ★ Tooth Mouse
FA: Gavin Peckham & Gavin Raubenheimer, 2001 | Old Shongweni | |||
10 | Crowning Glory
FA: Greg Wooding, 2001 | Old Shongweni | |||
F2 | Mr Kite
1
E
12m
2
F1
30m
3
F2
12m
FA: Carl Fatti & Glyn Chapman, 1969 | 54m, 3 | Laager Farm | ||
F2 | Horse's Delight
1
E
45m
2
E
12m
3
F1
25m
4
F2
FA: Keith Pyle & Mike Males, 1968 | 82m, 4 | Laager Farm | ||
F2 | Can Was
1
F1
40m
2
F2
25m
FA: Tony Dick, Barry Manicom, Waves Webster, Judy Rankin & 'Pogwog', 1968 | 65m, 2 | Laager Farm | ||
Number Two
Mentioned by name in Carl's write-up, but no further details were recorded. | Laager Farm | ||||
13 | Cosmos
FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Gerald Camp, 1986 | Qanda Rock | |||
16 | No Name Route
FA: Cesar de Carvalho, Jeremy Farquharson & Kevin Duffy, 1984 | Qanda Rock | |||
17 A1 | Lord of the Ages
1
12
2
13
3
17 A1
FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Jeremy Farquharson, 1987 | 3 | Dargle Mountain (iNhlozane) |