Showing all 13 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||
15 | ★★ Lycra Velcro
Follow a recess passing a bush. Follow the crack, and then the face left of the big succulent. Step back right to the crack under the large grass tuft. Follow the crack and exit to the right of climbers friend bush on top. Listed originally as one pitch, but you will have to be very bold to scramble after the actual climb. FA: Richard Halsey & M. Penso, Nov 2016 | 20m, 2 | Lion's Head | ||
7 | ★★ South-East Arête
1
7
12m
2
7
45m
3
B
200m
FA: Unknown | 260m, 3 | Lion's Head | ||
13 | ★ Sunny Side Up
Just past the South-East arête (Pitch#2) on the Clifton side. Start up a nice hand crack and then follow a vague arete to the top. FA: Richard Halsey, 2016 | 20m | Lion's Head | ||
15 | ★ Toktokkie on My Boots Today
1
15
40m
2
7
25m
FA: D. Mecer & A. Wienand, 2006 | 65m, 2 | Lion's Head | ||
18 | ★ Jitterbug
FA: D. Mecer & Scurvy, 2007 | 40m | Lion's Head | ||
14 | ★ And The Living is Easy
1
13
20m
2
14
40m
FA: D. Mecer & A. Wienand, 2006 | 60m, 2 | Lion's Head | ||
16 | ★ Two Girls and a Guy
FA: S. Skupin, A. Wienand & D. Mecer, 2007 | 30m | Lion's Head | ||
15 | ★ Timon
Climb the thinner crack on the left. You can use standard sport rope. This nook is in shade when the rest of the crag is in the sun. Scramble up a few meters then walk left to access Clifton tea cave level. FA: Cormac Tooze, M. Lamprecht & Brian Watts, May 2017 | Lion's Head | |||
17 | ★★ Pumbaa
Climb the wider crack on the right. You can use standard sport rope. This nook is in the shade when the rest of the crag is in the sun. Scramble up a few meters then walk left to access Clifton tea cave level. FA: Cormac Tooze & M. Lamprecht, 5 Jun 2017 | Lion's Head | |||
14 | ★ Whale Tale
Start by laybacking over a large block. Continue up and to the left of some loose-ish blocks (take care!!). Finish up the vague corner to the left. FA: M. Penso & Richard Halsey, Nov 2016 | 2 | Lion's Head | ||
15 | Nine Inch Ale
Follow the crack line all the way, to the left of the wide recess in the orange wall. FA: Richard Halsey & M. Penso, Nov 2016 | Lion's Head | |||
22/23 | ★★★ The Time Wasp
Surprisingly good, and tricksy. Climbs the wall and arête to the right of And the Living is Easy. Follow the rib to the wide rail, Hard moves onto the face above lead to rails. Continue up the arête (flakes on the face to the left are loose). Small cams are useful higher up. FA: Richard Halsey, 2016 | Lion's Head | |||
21 | ★ Tipsy Twittering
Written for sake of completion. Not recommended. Just right of The Time Wasp is a face with a small roof a few meters up. Climb beneath the middle of the face to a roof. Realize it is too hard to go direct and use holds on the right to be able to step left over the roof onto the face. Make a gripping traverse up and left (with nasty fall potential) to the arête, which is climbed easily to the top. Gets one star for the funky traverse moves. FA: Richard Halsey & G. Bird, 2016 | Lion's Head |
Showing all 13 routes.