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Routes in Wally's Cave Sector

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Showing all 13 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Trad
15 Lycra Velcro

Follow a recess passing a bush. Follow the crack, and then the face left of the big succulent. Step back right to the crack under the large grass tuft. Follow the crack and exit to the right of climbers friend bush on top. Listed originally as one pitch, but you will have to be very bold to scramble after the actual climb.

FA: Richard Halsey & M. Penso, Nov 2016

Trad 20m, 2 Lion's Head
7 South-East Arête
1 7 12m
2 7 45m
3 B 200m

FA: Unknown

Trad 260m, 3 Lion's Head
13 Sunny Side Up

Just past the South-East arête (Pitch#2) on the Clifton side. Start up a nice hand crack and then follow a vague arete to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey, 2016

Trad 20m Lion's Head
15 Toktokkie on My Boots Today
1 15 40m
2 7 25m

FA: D. Mecer & A. Wienand, 2006

Trad 65m, 2 Lion's Head
18 Jitterbug

FA: D. Mecer & Scurvy, 2007

Trad 40m Lion's Head
14 And The Living is Easy
1 13 20m
2 14 40m

FA: D. Mecer & A. Wienand, 2006

Trad 60m, 2 Lion's Head
16 Two Girls and a Guy

FA: S. Skupin, A. Wienand & D. Mecer, 2007

Trad 30m Lion's Head
15 Timon

Climb the thinner crack on the left. You can use standard sport rope. This nook is in shade when the rest of the crag is in the sun. Scramble up a few meters then walk left to access Clifton tea cave level.

FA: Cormac Tooze, M. Lamprecht & Brian Watts, May 2017

Trad Lion's Head
17 Pumbaa

Climb the wider crack on the right. You can use standard sport rope. This nook is in the shade when the rest of the crag is in the sun. Scramble up a few meters then walk left to access Clifton tea cave level.

FA: Cormac Tooze & M. Lamprecht, 5 Jun 2017

Trad Lion's Head
14 Whale Tale

Start by laybacking over a large block. Continue up and to the left of some loose-ish blocks (take care!!). Finish up the vague corner to the left.

FA: M. Penso & Richard Halsey, Nov 2016

Trad 2 Lion's Head
15 Nine Inch Ale

Follow the crack line all the way, to the left of the wide recess in the orange wall.

FA: Richard Halsey & M. Penso, Nov 2016

Trad Lion's Head
22/23 The Time Wasp

Surprisingly good, and tricksy. Climbs the wall and arête to the right of And the Living is Easy. Follow the rib to the wide rail, Hard moves onto the face above lead to rails. Continue up the arête (flakes on the face to the left are loose). Small cams are useful higher up.

FA: Richard Halsey, 2016

Trad Lion's Head
21 Tipsy Twittering

Written for sake of completion. Not recommended. Just right of The Time Wasp is a face with a small roof a few meters up. Climb beneath the middle of the face to a roof. Realize it is too hard to go direct and use holds on the right to be able to step left over the roof onto the face. Make a gripping traverse up and left (with nasty fall potential) to the arête, which is climbed easily to the top. Gets one star for the funky traverse moves.

FA: Richard Halsey & G. Bird, 2016

Trad Lion's Head

Showing all 13 routes.

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