The route climbs the smallest of the Chesspieces immediately to the right and at the same level as The Castle
90 feet 'E inf.': Step off some large blocks on to a face and then step out to the left on to a rib. Climb this rib for some way before moving back to the right and continuing up to a ledge. Traverse 30 feet to the left.
50 feet 'E': Climb a face with mushroom grips. Move to the right near the top.
40 feet 'E': The pitch lies above and slightly to the right. Climb the short undercut face moving to the right to where it culminates in a knife-edge. Climb the knife-edge to a stance.
60 feet 'D': Climb up a bushy ramp to a stance at the base of a large chimney.
30 feet 'E': Descending slightly, traverse to the left to a small stance beneath a flat face.
50 feet 'F inf.': Stepping off a point, move up on small holds for 10 feet. Move to the right into a crack, and then climb a face to the right of the crack. Climb up a knife-edge to a cubbyhole stance. Scramble through a hole in the roof and continue up the face on the right (10 feet 'D') to a large ledge.
The most prominent feature of the next section of the buttress is a large chimney. Proceed to the base of it.
70 feet 'F': Start up a grassy crack. The first difficulty is encountered 20 feet up where the crack narrows to about 6 inches. A sequence of two difficult moves takes one from the crack into a peculiar wormhole which leads to a stance.
35 feet 'D': Chimney up above the stance, moving to the right into another cleft which leads to a large stance.
100 feet 'E': Climb a very broken-up rib. Step out to the left and then continue to climb diagonally to the left across the face. Continue almost straight up to a very large platform.
We avoided the top band of rock by climbing a further 100 feet of ‘D’ grade in a recess to the right of the final section.
