Routes in West Coast for selected grade

1. Start below an obvious crack with good starting jugs and pull up strenuously into the crack. Interesting climbing follows more or less directly up to a good ledge.

2. Climb the face to a ledge under the big roof, then climb the ramp to the left, onto another ledge, and then easy climbing up the face to the top on good holds.

Climb the short layback crack and up through the overlap to an overhanging corner. Climb this to the top.

Walking along from the cave a smooth wall is reached bounded high on the left by a smooth corner, and by a large corner/crack on the right. This is the South America Wall.

Start at a mini-ramp below a flake dead centre of the wall. Climb to a rail (thin), and traverse left for 10m to the first break in the roof. Power through and go left into the corner. Climb up and find a gargoyle to rappel.

Just left of the centre of the wall is a heavily pocketed roof at a height of about 8m. Start directly below and 1m right of the right side of the roof.

1. Head up over a bulge and then up and left to the right side of the pocketed roof. A short ramp leads to a distinctive fin-like feature over the next narrow roof. Fight through the fin and then straight up the thin face above. Move diagonally up and left to a position where a delicate, balance move leads left into a tube-like feature. From here head straight up on featured rock.

Abseil point in situ (as of 2015).

R. Halsey & M. Penso

On the ledge above the second, shorter abseil on the Gendarme there is a huge block up and on the climber's right. This route follows the striking arete above the end of the ledge.

Start on the right of the arete. Climb to the rail below the crux and place some solid gear. Use small crimps on the right hand face to reach a thin rail and then ease left to the big hold on the arete. Alternatively, a bit more satisfying but a grade or two harder, use a pinch on the arete itself to go straight up. Crank a couple more moves until able to get in more gear then head to the top.

Start: in the Bottom Cave, the last big room you get to as you walk down the Panic Sloot.

1. Fun little prow in the right back corner of the large room. Bouldery start with some big moves at the end. Escape left at the big flat roof.

About 100m right of the 3 cracks marking Velociraptor is a beautiful, long, clean arete above a bulging, pocketed roof. The route starts on the face below and left of this roof and bypasses it to reach the base of the arete from the left hand side. The first pitch wanders a little and the second is hard, a bit grotty in places, and run out. The top, arete pitch, however, is superb so an option is to rap in from the top to the ledge from which one starts this last pitch and just do that.

1. Start off a long block about 10m left of the corner below the pocketed roof at the base of a thin crack. Reach up high to a couple of small edges and pull up onto the undercut face. Head up the crack and rightwards to the top, left corner of the pocketed roof (about 15m up). Rail left underneath the small overlap and then up the corner on its left side to stance on a ledge with some blocks and capped by a roof.

2. From the right hand side of the ledge pull up delicately onto the smooth slab above the roof. Move left and a little up until able to do a difficult move left into an obvious crack. Follow the crack up as it widens, past a small roof and an unprotected, vegetated section, to a good ledge.

3. From the ledge head up and right towards the arete on the skyline. Follow this superb arete all the way to the massive ledge. Descent: Walk left along the ledge, through a bit of a dip, and up into the big Panic Sloot Gully which is followed to the top of the mountain.

Sit-start with crimps and climb up.

F. EMF 1879 direct exit

Start on the big undercut as It’s okay. Follow the good holds right along the lip until you reach the black streaks and finish upwards on good holds

Sit-start with edges and climb up trending right.

Climb the slab.

Start with good holds and climb through bulge

Sit-start with large sidepull / jug and climb out right.

Sit start on the large rail, throw for the lip and TO

Sit-start with low jugs and climb the face

Sit-start with low crimps and climb up.

Climb the slab a few meters to the left of Veuz Against the Bush.

Sit start with large holds and climb the brain.

Sit-start as Million Dollar Crimp, move left to large hold then cross to pinch and climb straight up.

Sit-start under the arete and climb the exposed face.

Sit-start in the hole with large hold and climb up on edges.

Sit-start under the arete and climb up.

Start with two good holds and climb up the face.

Sit-start with the knob and climb up.

Video

Sit-start under small roof and climb through the bulge.

Video

Dyno on the arete

Video

Sit-start with low shelf.

Climb the rightward tending crack.

#SD

Sit-start with twin-horn and climb up right.

Sitstart into the slightly overhanging arete

Video

Sit-start with good holds, climb out on the rail and finish up the spout.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Video

This is a novelty route. Top out using only one pinky finger.

#SD Sit-start with undercling, climb through roof and finish out left.

Start with right hand on high sidepull crimp and climb up left

Sit-start and climb rightwards up the high rail

Sit-start and climb the arête

Sit-start with good hold and climb up.

Video

New glue-in lower-offs added, you can access from the top easily.

2 new bolts added, one at the run-out and another at the start for shorter people.

Fully re-bolted with glue-ins

Crouch-start on the left, move to the slot and climb up the arête.

#SD Sit-start with jug and climb up right.

#SD Sit-start with crack / jug and climb up diagonally left.

#SD Sit-start and climb the arete.

Start to the left of the tree and climb up the arête

Climb straight up the arête.

Start with crimps and climb up the sandy flake

Left of Orange Heart

Sit-start with jugs and climb up left on good holds.

Video

Sit-start with jug, climb straight up on 'chicken heads'.

Start to the left of a small tree and climb straight up.

Start as Rocky but traverse right and finish up Hot Flush.

Start as Three Cousins but climb straight up.

Sit-start to the right with juggy rail, traverse left and finish up the good crack.

Video

Sit-start with large rail, move left hand to sidepull, right hand to pocket and top-out.

Sit-start with broken hold, move to rail then large edge and top-out.

Sit-start with good sidepull and climb up.

Start on the large rock with opposing jugs and dyno up.

Zone Principale but finishing straight up

Climb the arete.

Sit-start with jug and climb up the crack.

Sit-start with jug, move to good hold on lip and top-out.

Start as Party Cat Direct but from the large hold traverse right across the high face.

Climb the slab.

Sit-start below the arete and climb up

Sit-start with rail, climb up on good edges and finish out right.