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Vingerkop

  • Grade context: SA
  • Ascents: 1
1
SA
19

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

The orange buttress at the east end of the valley.

Access issues inherited from Wagenpad

Access: The farmer welcomes climbers, just drop him a line to let him know you are coming before-hand. Email using the contact form at https://wagenpad.com. Please do not make any fires, be respectful, bury your toilet paper and don’t leave any litter. Climbing is inherently dangerous and all climbing on the farm is at your own risk.

Approach

Follow the jeep track all the way to the viewpoint at the east end of the valley. From there, head up the slopes southwards until reaching the rocky promontory (15mn hiking).

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 17 15m
2 19 20m
3 16 15m

Approach: When reaching Vingerkop from the viewpoint at the neck, keep walking aroung the buttress counter clockwise for about 50m.

Aspect: Pleasant climbing following an obvious natural line. Enjoy the morning shade when the rest of the valley is blasted by the sun.

  1. A couple meters right of an orange pillar is a crack and a shallow recess. Climb the recess moving slightly left until you are able to step left directly into the crack. Pull through a small roof and continue moving up past some musical flakes to a stance on a narrow ledge just above them.

  2. Traverse right for a few meters until it's possible to move up through the right side of the roof. Pull up at the obvious break using the large layback flake and follow it until the terrain eases. Scramble directly up to a large ledge.

  3. Facing the same direction you topped out the previous pitch on, walk straight 10m on the right side of some large blocks until you find a crack directly in front of you. You will be in an alley with a huge chockstone above and left of you. Climb the hand crack until it peters out, then move slighly up left to a ledge using good but lichenous cap jugs.

Descent: A roped scramble down the gully to the your immediate left brings you back to the previous level, but on the other side of the huge chockstone (abseiling would be preferable). From there, look for the obvious thicket of tree trunks to abseil from, or a large block another level down from the trees. Abseil all the way to the ground (60m ropes).

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Sat 27 May
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