Ascents in Málaga

Easily 6c. Middle pocket hold is very very polished, Poema roca vibe. Frustrating because this route looks so tempting from the ground, but it doesn't climb like it reads at all, balance middle weirdness, doesn't climb like an overhang. It looks great and tempting but it is a let down. Others in group agreed. Clipping a QD into bolt 3 is quite awkward at least for my height and hard to do as an onsight unless you're tall or QDs are in or maybe you know your belayer and feel great and not worried. Easier if that QD is in, can clip from better hold. Route is hard to read above that and has slippery holds where there should be jugs. Feels run out and exposed to the next bolt and anchor. I've definitely been on soft 6cs (that people downgrade to 6b+) that feel the same or easier than this. Maybe was 6b when it wasn't polished or when it's a bit colder and the grip is nice, rather than mid-March. Don't recommend this route.

3 rockfall impacts within 20 m in 15 mins Escaped!

dangerously bolted

Only 2 stars for the location, crux move is poorly protected and will probably result in hitting a ledge

I normally project 7s and found this route ridiculous. Bolts are airy for the grade. Holds at bolt 3 (4 if you're skipping the lowest one) didn't feel great, then when you get over the bulge there's a missing bolt and a run out on sharp holds. Sharp is fine but, my feet had slipped several times and the last thing you want on sensitive skin is to slip and fall holding onto sharp holds in a run-out. Thought I could always get 6a-6b but this day and crag are proving otherwise. Maybe a bad head day, maybe the conditions in mid-March sun, maybe a belayer I hadn't met before but - still, this grade is not my limit and it messed with my head. Don't recommend.

Had to rap back down part way through 3rd pitch when elbow injury flared up.

bailed on the runout cruxmove. tried again on toprope

Hard mantle move above the ledge on polished holds. Great fall potential onto ledge.

Two bolts, too cold.

Wet

A good powerful route that's not that easy to read/onsight. Rope drag can be a bit of an issue, so you might want to use longer clips in the overhanging part.

Onsight by Tim. Flash was out of reach but nice project. Easy climbing to the first, short and sharp pinch crux - wet at the time. Longer main crux sequence just above. Last bit below the anchor is sharp and easier. Only got to the top while toprope cleaning.

Tried 3 times; almost made it through the lower crux.

Beautiful slabby start that looks more intimidating than it is - I mean it looks undoable but the texture is sharp and useful. My top rope attempt got blocked twice in the same spot: entering the overhanging crack just passing 60% of the route distance. More of a mental block than anything else, because there are holds (pockets) but I just didn't feel like putting my fingers in them with what I call dodgy feet. Pumpy and rather scary Jonas and Jorn are cool guys!

First pitch only

Only got half way up before slicing my finger open. The bottom is very fingery on sharp broccoli holds. Not too pleasant. Top looks more fun