Ascents in Princesa having Beta

Vía espectacular, con pasos que no se encuentran a menudo en este grado.

Linked P2+P3 and P4+P5

Classic for the grade! Top 50 in the guide. Agree.

3 starts from me, as per guide book. The traverse had me on edge 😅 Linked p1&2,4&5. Rapped back down in 2 goes with 80m rope, using the full 40m's on both rappels. Use Knots! For this don't go to end of p3 anchors to rethread as per guide book, instead continue straight down under p4 under buldge (clip in to fixed draw) to set of rapp anchors. Smashed it out in 2hours 40min including rapps. In the shade with a nice breeze all the time. YEEW

Awesome technical crux on small holds which is hard for 6c. 2 hangs. No aid. Amazing view from the pitch 2 and 3 anchor. The rock is sharp in the upper pitches.

Climb: 4.75 hrs, descent: 4.25 hrs

Issues we had: There's a runout to the first bolt on pitch 2 and the climbing is not that obvious. There are more anchors than described in the guide and additional lines of bolts in the top part made orientation difficult. After reaching the top we could not find the suggested abseil point of Sol Solet and scrambled up to the anchor of "Via Llum de Lluna". Our rope got stuck on the top pitch of that line.

Discussion on UKC: https://goo.gl/Nyfffb

#multipitch

#hard

What a fantastic route through the overhanging tufa! 2nd try after many years, and still I don't want to do the last move (rest went easily).

technical face/slab

technical