Routes in Valencia for selected grade

Tufas galore.

Popular, pumpy. High in the grade.

Not the greatest warm-up, with a boulder start like this!

Shared start (hard!) with Nazgul.

Spectacular jugs, still pumpy.

Sin la grieta de la izquierda

Without the crack on the left

#defined

Good technical middle section and a small overhang that should not be underestimated - but also not over

Graded as per 2020 guidebook. Sustained and technical at 6b+. Also run-out.

Essentially, this is a boulder problem to the second bolt. The anchor is only a single bolt with a ring.

This route is missing in the local guidebook (see Gestalgar). If you know name, grade or bolter, please share it.

power, technique, endurance. Not easy to read on first try.

Beautiful line using all the 'balls' on the front panel. There are at least two ways to finish this Boulder.

Variations:

• Casi alcanzo, 5B

Sit start

Crimpy and technical vertical climb. Relax a bit when you reach the slab on top. You'll need some energy to conquer the bulge. The bolts feel a bit spaced.

Why are all those holds facing the wrong direction?!

Tricky slab below and big holds and overhang up above. Excellent!

#standstart #topout

Offers good use for a heel hook. Easier if you're tall.

Sit start

What a treat! I recommend linking 1 + 2 together (possible with a 70m rope). The movements are balancy and thoughtful on excellent rocks.

Shady corner.

Sit start. La plataforma que queda a la derecha se usa sólo para los pies, si se hace sin plataforma sale un poco más difícil, quizás 5+/6a.

📷 de la vía en blogspot.com 1, blogspot.com 2

Start as for 'Ajo y estaca' before trending right and up, briefly joining 'Echame esos polvos' before continuing further up and right.

It pays off to get the hands in the right order

Easier with proper technique. Sit start.

Start as for 'El gordo' until above tree, then traverse right and up, finishing at anchors of 'Falcata'.

Sharing a top with El retorno del pato

Long, interesting and diverse climb. Hard moves at the beginning gain you access to an easier wall angle and good holds in the widening crack. Some stemming brings you before a small overhang which can also be passed without too much difficulty. The rest of the climb is a walk in the park on big holds and almost virgin rock. Very much recommended.

Short and pumpy with a hard sequence to unlock around the 3rd bolt.

📷 de la vía en Instagram

Diverse and sustained climb. One of the best in this sector.

Same start as La pelota de Kalo, head right; Sharing a top with Quena.