Routes in Valencia for selected grade

One of the crag classics and not a giveaway. The many ascents have not changed that.

The local guide book, "L'Estret..." shows more routes here than do actually exist. There is no additional route between Canglejo and R.S.I.

Nice and flowy route, though it has an uncomfortable and slippery start.

Erika YouTube: GutikaFilms

Very polished.

More beautiful orange flowstone. Cruxy.

Be prepared for a hard crux move. Not ideal as a warmup

Climb up the slab with a couple of tiny pockets.

Reachy (as the name suggests).

Variations:

• Waves of Joy, 5C

Ignore the writing at the bottom of the line, as it is badly placed. The route goes to the right of the name. Directly up is La retrobaba 6c.

One hard and somewhat reachy move at the beginning is the door keeper here. The short dihedral further up adds diversity to this worthwhile climb.

Slightly overhanging route with great moves left and right of the crack. Watch your pump!

Thin middle section.

Essentially, this is a boulder problem to the second bolt. The anchor is only a single bolt with a ring.

This route is missing in the local guidebook (see Gestalgar). If you know name, grade or bolter, please share it.

Good pocket-pulling

More information on elev-arte.com

Sit start. Without right-hand wall

The short overhang is overcome quickly. Thereafter the route has no more challenges to offer. It's at least debatable, whether the start justifies the 6b grade.

An easy start sees you off into the cruxy middle that offers a nice sequence.

Very polished start.

A reachy but interesting traverse that has its crux at the sloper in the middle.

Green bolt line

Grade as per 2020 guidebook. It feels harder at 6b+.

An awkward and somewhat polished start (consider pre-clipping the 2nd bolt if this grade is at your limit) leads onto a thin middle section where good foot placement is required. Good holds in the upper section and some spare endurance will get you to the chains.

#sitstart #topout

tricky, fingery, crimps

Quite hard to get off the ground. Then cruising on good pockets.

Variations:

• Green Mamba, 5A

Quite technical problem for this grade. Resolves nicely if done properly. Can you crown yourself king of the Aztecs?

Extension to the top. The second part is easier than the first.

Similar to its neighbor on the right, but a bit harder. Apart from the anchor, also shares some holds with 'Mestre Ricard' which makes it feel like climbing the same route at times. Worthwhile climb.

An extension to either 'Oh, Carol' or 'Champagne para todos L1'.

Climbs along the short tufa in the middle of the route before it joins the anchor of the route to the right.

Start boulder is followed by pockets and an easy top.