Ascents in Henriksdalsberget

Finally! This route has been my literal achilles heel after the heel hook. I had the crux so smooth but kept messing one little thing up always on the lock off and bump moves... Finally cruised through. 6c+ in book and on most sites. Does not fit 6c

I am embarrassed as all hell that I still cant get this. I am so frustrated. I need THREE goes in a session, I never get three. I always have to get the dyno (IT IS ONE & IT IS NOT 6c) working again on the warm-up. This time I did it PERFECTLY second go. PERFECTLY. Cut my feet, re-established, clipped the next, got my heel hook... but I forgot to swap my hands so that the RIGHT ONE is under the QD that pinches your hand and you can use the left gaston with the left hand to bump to the good hold above. And it was DARK. I could NOT SEE MY FEET below the overhang to even have a chance to catch just the right little thing in the crack with my left foot. Fail. I don't understand why I just never get this. I am so much stronger than this. I am so extremely disappointed. A lot of people tell me to stop projecting 7c, but honestly, the moves on my projects go with more certainty??? And I like that more??? At least I found the send motivation again, but I went home crying

rock felt shitty today

Definitely 7b, 7b elsewhere. Comparable to Nattsudd at Skevik. Bouldery. Difficult with immediate body-tension moves and big reaches on a traverse line. Not the safest falls. Like a max kilter board problem. Crux in the start. Harder if you are not taller than my 170cm, as you have to keep tension between a not so positive undercling and a hold far above. My left shoulder still hurts the next day from this and trying to swing back onto it. Only tried first bit

already was not feeling great. Just my head was in the wrong place and the reachy holds did not feel great in the heat. Did not like the route so much. Ursprunget is better. Even Armani is better...

6c+ in guidebooks and online. If you do the cut-loose move in the crux this is not a 6c. Not my first time trying it. Warmed up and put the QDs in on it. Crux felt ok, knee felt ok in it, found a way to stabilize my body with a far left hand to compliment the side-pull once knee is placed. this meant less knee pain. But then I got weirded out in the slab corner near the top. Don't normally, it is easy. Decided my head was not in it today and didn't try more, head needs to be in it on the warm-up the day I give this the 2-3 goes to send.

Each of my other 2 sessions I only gave it 2 goes. Messed up twice this session and then dry-fired off a crimp. Finally 3rd go this session was the charm. If you are shorter the 3rd bolt is dynamic. Used right side beta and a hidden knee bar to more solidly get to the crux (which wasn't a crux for me, the lower part I couldn't reach was)

Basically a boulder. Might be a bit morpho?

Day flash. I've been on it before long long ago, so can't say it was an actual flash. Where I used to feel fear and exposure, it was fine. So that has improved over the years ...

On my second go, all the moves went well. The issue from earlier was fine at bolt 3, found a smear for my left to press against. But I messed up right before the crux, setting my feet and hands up... Paused too long. Fell. Then managed the crux just fine. Oops, no send. But it went well.

Had a hard time before the crux on my on sight attempt, couldn't reach at bolt 3, had to work out feet. Crux went down smoothly on first go after.

Was stubborn and wanted to try and go for the onsight but hard to read the sequence in the roof and had to hang. When you know the sequence it is easy. No time for the 2nd go redpoint unfortunately. Fun route!

First moves were very pumpy and didn't want to get flashpump so retreated and went up ACO instead

Nice route but hard for the grade

On toprope trying the moves but still very scary going through the massive roof to two 3-finger crimps where you cut loose completely 😅

Second go this session. Enjoyable fingery crux sequence. Hard for the grade.

Utah, USA feeling with smooth walls and big blocks and slots. Fun!

Managed to do the top moves to the anchor despite the thunderstorm and wet holds!!

Linked all the moves on second go (except a tight rope stopped my swing). A rainstorm on the top section caused me to slip off just before the anchor anyway though

Hard if you don't know the final moves!

Working the roof moves

Really cool sequence involving a kneebar and a cut-loose! Really fun. Checked the moves when lowering from Armani, then sent on first ground-up attempt, so technically no flash.

Looked impossible on first inspection but actually not as hard as it seems. Pumpy. 6c+/7a

Guidebook says 7a but feels soft for the grade. Pretty intense awkward bouldery crux though might be hard for some.

Big moves on good holds. Fun!