Showing all 46 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | Nacka Kvarn | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Aug 2012 | |||||
Consistent, overhanging, short and heavy.
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7a | ★★ Totalvägra | Nacka Kvarn | ★★ Very Good | Wed 12th Sep 2012 | |||||
En av fem leder 2012. ÄNTLIGEN!!!!
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7a | ★★ Totalvägra | Nacka Kvarn | Tue 7th Aug 2007 | ||||||
Repitition av min första 7a.
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7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | Nacka Kvarn | Wed 8th Aug 2007 | ||||||
Repeat. En fin led helt klart
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6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | Nacka Kvarn | ★★★ Classic | Thu 6th Aug 2009 | |||||
Riktigt fin led.
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6c | ★ Nacka Kvarn | Nacka Kvarn | ★ Good | Sun 1st May 2016 | |||||
Bra led!
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7a | ★★ Partaj | Nacka Kvarn | ★ Good | Sat 27th Jun 2015 | |||||
Kul grej! 2nd go.
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6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | Nacka Kvarn | Wed 19th Aug 2015 | ||||||
Ganska fin, var på den nån gång förra året och då blev det bara konstigt. Nu satt den på första.
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7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | Nacka Kvarn | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Apr 2014 | |||||
Väldig fint o teknisk. Gillar skarpt
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7b | ★★★ Super freaky | Nacka Kvarn | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th Jun 2015 | |||||
YES!! På det sjätte smäller det, tydligen. Väldigt fin led från start till mål. Löste mittsektionen med en ordentlig catch som satt som en smäck. Rekommenderas superstarkt!
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7a | ★★ Partaj | Nacka Kvarn | ★★ Very Good | Wed 19th Aug 2015 | |||||
Yes! Trodde jag var för klen för sista kruxet, men det gick med noggrann beta. Kort, men har så fina flytt att jag tycker den är den finaste på kvarnen för graden. Typ 4-5 pressen. Mkt nöjd!
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6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | Nacka Kvarn | Sat 19th Apr 2014 | ||||||
Kort o krimpig!
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6c+ | ★ Annika | Nacka Kvarn | ★ Good | Wed 19th Aug 2015 | |||||
Fin och rätt oklättrad (?). Jag startade i Partaj och uteslöt det stora blocket/flaket helt och hållet. Då tyckte jag den höll 7a, trots att den gick ner på andra försöket. Väldigt skoj, tycker fler borde köra den!
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6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | Nacka Kvarn | Mon 5th May 2014 | ||||||
Andra försöket. Kruxet kommer på slutet
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7a+ 7b | ★★ Freaky Deaky | Nacka Kvarn | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Sep 2014 | |||||
Yes! Där satt den. Kanonfin och valgraderad led. Starten är väldigt beroende av bra stick, så undvik när det är för varmt.
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7a+ | ★ Diggelo (Diggilo) | Nacka Kvarn | ★ Good | Sun 26th Apr 2020 | |||||
Långt ifrån onsight. Lätt på andra. Kort o kul - roligt att hitta nytt (för mig) på Nacka Kvarn!
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7a | ★ Auktion Direkt | Nacka Kvarn | ★ Good | Sun 26th Apr 2020 | |||||
Sumpade onsighten på sista skicket, lite snopet. Gick stabilt på andra. Riktigt cool linje som jag lyckats missa under alla dessa år.
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7a | ★★ Lutande Tornet | Nacka Kvarn | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th May 2014 | |||||
Andra försöket. Jättefin led - finare än Totalvägra enligt mig.
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7a | ★★ Totalvägra | Nacka Kvarn | ★ Good | Mon 28th Apr 2014 | |||||
Tredje dagen, sjätte försöket. Gött
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6c | ★ Nacka Kvarn | Nacka Kvarn | ★ Good | Sat 19th Apr 2014 | |||||
Kul och teknisk.
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7a | ★★ Totalvägra | Nacka Kvarn | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th May 2022 | |||||
Was pumped after working on Freaky Deaky Direkt so was pleased to get this on the second go after working out the crux beta
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6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | Nacka Kvarn | ★★ Very Good | Wed 17th Apr 2019 | |||||
Lovely pumpy crimpy route
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6a+ | ★ Miraculix | Nacka Kvarn | Wed 17th Apr 2019 | ||||||
Nice (pumpy for the grade) warm-up
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5b | Coach | Nacka Kvarn | Wed 17th Apr 2019 | ||||||
Ended up free solo downclimbing / faffing as no anchor haha
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7b+ 7b | ★★ Freaky Deaky | Nacka Kvarn | Sat 21st May 2022 | ||||||
harder than Direct Freaky, key feet at start now missing
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7b | ★★★ Direct Freaky | Nacka Kvarn | Sat 21st May 2022 | ||||||
Sketchy third clip, bolt positioning not the smartest but a genius line
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7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | Nacka Kvarn | Sat 21st May 2022 | ||||||
Pumpy. Easy for the grade but needs endurance for the last clip or enjoy the flight!
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7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | Nacka Kvarn | Tue 17th May 2022 | ||||||
Second go. Pumpy for 6c+!
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7a | ★★ Partaj | Nacka Kvarn | ★★ Very Good | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | |||||
Second go. Very nice crux sequence.
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7a+ | ★ Diggelo | Nacka Kvarn | ★ Good | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | |||||
Very beta specific but fun route despite the length! 6th go over 2 sessions (first a long time ago).
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7a | ★ Obelix | Nacka Kvarn | ★ Good | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | |||||
2nd go
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7a | ★★ Partaj - with Shaun Hurrell | Nacka Kvarn | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | ||||||
Scared to do the third clip but did crux first go
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7a | ★★ Partaj - with Shaun Hurrell | Nacka Kvarn | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | ||||||
Fucked up 3rd clip.. Nice sequence. Will have to come back
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7a+ | ★ Diggelo - with Shaun Hurrell | Nacka Kvarn | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | ||||||
Fell on the final jug on my onsight attempt.. then took 4 more tries as short, bouldery route but fun!
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7a | ★ Obelix - with Shaun Hurrell | Nacka Kvarn | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | ||||||
2nd go. Fell at last move on the onsight
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6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | Nacka Kvarn | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Aug 2022 | |||||
Climbed after worming and sending Tabu so was a bit pumped and misread crux sequence. Crux is such very good when you know the sequence.
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7b | ★★★ Direct Freaky | Nacka Kvarn | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Aug 2022 | |||||
It went! Despite the heat and lack of finger skin. Crimped hard and just went for it. Second proper attempt this session (after falling at the anchor on first attempt!) so five or six goes overall. Pretty chuffed with that. Top route with great crimps. My fourth or fifth 7b!
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6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | Nacka Kvarn | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Aug 2022 | |||||
Always a great route and finger warm up. Climbed direct up the crack instead of weaving out to the left easier variation.
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6a+ | ★ Miraculix | Nacka Kvarn | ★ Good | Sun 14th Aug 2022 | |||||
Nice little bicep warm up
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7b | ★★★ Direct Freaky | Nacka Kvarn | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Aug 2022 | |||||
First RP attempt today and fell literally at the anchor because I messed up the feet haha. Make sure you memorise the final moves!
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7a | ★ Auktion Direkt | Nacka Kvarn | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | |||||
start was quite slippery especially with ice, grips did not feel remotely possible there. Further up, where sun hits the wall, it was more doable. Anchors were not visible but exist. Not sure I would try again due to fall potential, but some moves were nice, especially the sequence further up
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7a Hard | ★★ Partaj | Nacka Kvarn | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | ||||||
Well when I looked at the tick list, only tall climbers had ticked it... Maybe a reason? The second bolt seems easy enough to clip, but the sequence to the left is a bit mind-boggling, and the sequence higher up seems impossibly reachy for the grade (I am 171 cm, +1). Only one old rusted quick link sits at the top for an anchor. Tried with clip stick and then on top rope (with a QD),
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6c+ | ★★ Ignition — 3 attempts | Nacka Kvarn | Sun 14th May 2023 | ||||||
eat up to final crux, cruise and solve!
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6b+ ~6c | ★★ Brown Sugar — 3 attempts | Nacka Kvarn | ★★★ Classic | Sun 25th Sep 2022 | |||||
took me more than a few tries, and I was in decent shape having gotten Panta Rei a few weeks before. feels a bit heavier than some 6b+ unless you're much taller. committing for the grade. Tried this over several years once a year or so
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7a | ★★ Totalvägra | Nacka Kvarn | Thu 23rd May 2024 | ||||||
I am not doing as well as I did last Fall or in years before, kind of embarassing.. Maybe not ideal conditions, my beta at the 3rd bolt feels wrong for clipping, and I can't find a rest after the intense start on the left anymore. The dynamic dead point crux after bolt 5 was going great on top rope last week but with the 5th bolt clipped I get pulled to the left and need to use my left foot where I thought the right should go. Intermediate crimp feels bad in humid weather but I need to pull up more on it.
At the top: after clipping low on the 30mm edge, get pinch and bring feet up, get a left hold and there are 2 ok for a few seconds holds above the anchor.
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Boulder | |||||||||
6B+ | Sträck på dig äckel | Nacka Kvarn | Wed 25th Mar 2020 | ||||||
FA
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Showing all 46 ascents.